Dirt Bike Blogger

Winter Riding - Your Dirt Bike

2011-02-22T13:18:00.002-06:00

As soon as the first major snowfall hit, I'd pack away my dirt bikes along the side of the garage wall and have to look at them daily as I waited for spring. Once I realized a few die-hard dirt bike riders were still at it in the winter, I started looking into it. Other than dressing warm -- which I mentioned in a previous article – your dirt bike is the biggest consideration. Those knobbies may be great in the dirt – but not as much help on ice or 3-foot drifts.

The prime tire for winter riding – if you can afford it – is one with the spikes permanently installed. If you can, get the carbide-tipped spikes – they'll last much longer, giving you more riding for your dirt bike buck. Speaking of price – it'll seem a little steep at first, but sit back and realize that they'll last for years, and then think about how much it's worth to get all that extra dirt bike time.

If you just can't afford the ready-made tires for riding in the snow, or on ice, you still have a homemade option. Visit your local hardware store or building centre and pick up a bag of hex-head metal screws. If you're okay with spending a little bit more, check your local dirt bike shop, or online, for ice racing screws. As I mentioned, they're a little more expensive than the hardware store option, but tend to stay in the tire longer and grip a little better.

When you're making your own set of winter or ice tires for your dirt bike, it's going to feel a little strange screwing a sharp object into your tire on purpose. Ideally, you want to install as long a screw as possible so it stays put... but not so long that it punctures your inner tube. If you can, use newer or brand new tires since the knobs will be taller/thicker and try not to use screws shorter than half an inch.

If riding your dirt bike in the snow turns out to be a regular and frequent event, keep your eyes open for an extra set of rims for your machine. If you have your winter tires pre-mounted on rims, swapping tires can be done in less than an hour.

If you're going to ride your dirt bike in the snow for more than a few minutes, you'll want to install a shield or protector for the carburetor – otherwise your carb will ice up, and your dirt bike's performance will suffer. If you look around long enough, you can find commercially made shields for some bike models, but a homemade solution is fairly easy to come by. I've seen protectors made from cutting plastic bottles or milk jugs to shape... inner tube pieces zip-tied to the carburetor... and a modified hand guard complete with its own mounting screws. Avoid using any kind of tape to hold the shield in place – it'll often lose its grip in cold and/or wet conditions, and any fuel and oil drips will loosen up the adhesive. The carb area is also an awkward place to clean tape goop out of.

Also, depending on your bike and the day's conditions, keep an eye on your air box to make sure you're not sucking in snow and plugging it up.

I mentioned heated grips in the clothing article, but forgot another quick tip. If you have access to the right size shrink tubing, put some on your clutch and brake levers. A double-layer is even better if you can manage it. This will help insulate your fingers from the heat-sucking metal on the levers. In the summer, if the shrink tubing bothers you, it's easily removed with one slit along the length of the lever. A few layers of electrical tape can help if you don't use the shrink tubing, but it's harder and messier to remove in the spring.

Dirt Bike Video Quiz

2011-02-03T21:54:00.002-06:00

Put together the following Dirt Bike and Motocross Video Quiz. Hope you get a kick out of it!

Sorry if it overhangs other parts of this page.

Note: After the first question, you'll automatically jump to YouTube.

Winter Riding - Clothing

2011-01-21T11:09:00.000-06:00

Okay, there's never an ideal time of year to post an article about winter dirt bike riding because of the timing of the different seasons and the many of you who live in snow-free areas. But for those of you who want to ride your dirt bike in the snow sooner or later, here are some tips and thoughts.

First of all, why take a dirt bike out in the snow at all? Because... if you live in a four-season part of the world, winter is too long a time to not be riding.

Before we consider the dirt bike itself, let's look at some other snow riding considerations.

To me, the most important thing is keeping warm. If I'm not warm, I'm not having fun. Period.

You CAN get specialized dirt bike or motocross gear for riding in the snow, but it WILL cost you. On the other hand, a good set of thermal underwear (pants and top) and layered clothing can keep you just as warm for a lot less. If you have an old snowmobile suit, or insulated overalls/coveralls, that can work as well. I say “old” snowmobile suit, because you run the chance of tearing or shredding it on the bike, frozen shrubs, rough ice, etc.

Overall, you're going to want enough clothing to keep you warm, but still allow movement. How much movement you need will depend on your riding style and where you're riding. An 8-foot wide track you've packed and flattened is a lot different than a snow-covered trail through the woods.

If you can afford it, an extra pair of riding boots, a size or two bigger than you need, allows room for thermal or wool socks. Depending on the specific product, you may also be able to fit battery heated socks into your regular boots. Like any winter footwear, if your toes are packed in too tight and can't wiggle a little, they're going to freeze up on you. If your riding boots have removable liners, try taking them out and wearing an extra pair or two of socks. If at all possible, the pants you're wearing (at least the outermost layer) should fit OVER your boots to keep out snow.

Body... feet... now hands. A good set of gloves is an obvious place to start. The trick is to get enough insulation without affecting your ability to work the clutch and brake. As always, temperature is a factor. Where I live we can get calm, sunny days just below the freezing point where regular riding gloves are good for a half hour or more. When it hits 40 below with a strong wind, almost nothing is going to work.

Manufacturers like MSR, Moose, and others have soft hand guards that offer increased protection, and even guards that cover your entire hand. They may not look tough, but they work. If you want to get real fancy schmancy, you can install grip heaters. Riding a dirt bike in winter is awesome, but I don't do it often enough to justify that cost.

For head gear, I still fully endorse wearing a helmet and goggles. Ice can be hard as rock. Frozen trees even harder. And the metal on your dirt bike is still there, snow or no snow, so wear a helmet. If you go to where they sell snowmobiling supplies, you can get thin head coverings (they cover everything but the face) that offer a surprisingly warm extra layer, without affecting the fit of your helmet. In addition, most of them fit well down the neck to keep any cold drafts out between your jacket collar and helmet. Full face versions are also available with eye openings, and sometimes nose and/or mouth openings. I find these collect too much moisture from breathing, which then freezes in the helmet, so I have an open face style. But I also know people who love the full-face versions – so maybe I just breathe strangely.

Goggles protect your eyes the same way they do in summer, but in winter they also keep freezing breezes out. Fogging goggles can be a problem. The easiest way to avoid fogging is to avoid sweating, because as soon as you introduce moisture into the goggles (from your skin) it'll be attracted to the cold lens. Dressing in layers helps you moderate your body temperature between riding and other activities.

You can also purchase cold-weather goggles with a built-in anti-fogging coating (don't wipe the inside of the lens if you can avoid it – you'll wear off the coating). Spray-on and wipe-on anti-fog coatings are also available, as are dual lens and even heated goggles.

One final tip. Take a bathroom break BEFORE you get all bundled up.

I'll try to get together some information on setting up your dirt bike for riding in the snow and post it soon. If you want to know about the post as soon as it hits, you can subscribe to my Twitter. If you do, I won't be telling you about my feelings or what I had for lunch... just dirt bike stuff.

Take care!

Transporting and Loading

2010-12-30T12:49:00.008-06:00

Unless you have a motocross track in your backyard, or a dirt bike trail within spitting distance, you have to load up and haul your dirt bike every time you want to ride. The options for transporting dirt bikes are many, and depend on how many dirt bikes you need to move, and what kind of vehicles you have access to.

This is a quick look at some of your options, and some tips for making the whole process easier on you and your dirt bikes.

IN OR ON A VEHICLE

Typically, a dirt bike hauling vehicle would be a pickup truck. Back in the good old days, when truck boxes were big enough to carry a 4x8 sheet of plywood with the tailgate closed, you could pack a lot of dirt bikes and equipment onto one truck. Today, the cabs are bigger and the boxes are smaller, so you can usually carry more riders than bikes.

The biggest challenges with pickup trucks are the size of the box, and the height. To address the size issue, you're going to have to limit the number of bikes you haul. The number of dirt bikes will depend on their size. I used to haul a 100cc, a 90cc, and a 50cc in a smaller half-ton with little problem. The tough part was finding enough room to cram all the gear I needed to take along as well. One option is to leave the tailgate down and keep things in the box with a cargo net, straps, or a home-made barrier.

If you prefer to have the tailgate closed but your dirt bike is just a couple inches too long – secure the front wheel at the front, on one side of the box, and then shift the rear wheel towards the other side until you have enough room to close the gate.

And that leads me to strapping down the bike itself. The tried and true method is to bring the front tire up against the front of the box, and then use tie downs from each side of the handlebars to the box. Hopefully your box has tie-down points. If not you'll have to add some. This can be anything from the fancy and expensive concealed types to a cheap eye-bolt and a couple of nuts and washers. Just make sure you anchor your tie-down securely. When you tie down the bike, compress the front forks. The resulting tension will keep everything in place. If you're traveling for more than a day, release the straps enough to take the tension off of the forks when you're not traveling, then re-tighten when you hit the road. I prefer the simple cam tie-downs that you pull to tighten and press the small lever to release. Ropes are too much work for me, and the ratchet tie downs strike me as overkill. Mind you, if I was hauling my dirt bikes on an open, flat trailer or truck, I'd probably go with the ratchets for extra security.

If you ride enough, and don't use the box to haul anything else very often, you can install wheel chocks or brackets. Usually, these are just for the front wheels. They come in a number of styles with different options. From a simple channel to keep your front wheel from moving sideways, to locking mechanism that (technically) keeps the bike from rolling as well. No matter how fancy the wheel bracket, I would still use tie-downs to A) help reduce shaking/vibration, and B) keep the bike in the truck if the wheel chock should fail.

The next thing to consider is getting the dirt bike UP into the back of the truck. You have four options that I'm aware of. Ride, push, pull, or lift. If you have the skill and the nerve, you can ride your dirt bike up a ramp, into the truck. I've done it a number of times, but really feel nervous every time. If you're a trials rider, no worries – you can probably ride it in WITHOUT the ramp.

If you're going to push your bike into the back of your truck, seriously consider getting two ramps – one for the bike, and one for your feet. Remember, the bigger the bike, and the higher the truck, the more of a running start you're going to need to get the bike all the way up. Getting 3/4's up the ramp and having to back down sucks. If you can, park the truck in a low spot, like a ditch, and put the end of the ramp on high ground. One area I ride in has a ditch that lets me put my ramps out almost level.

Also, try and have some kind of grip surface on the ramp – remember, you may be trying to maneuver a heavy bike, up a narrow strip, with wet and muddy boots and tires. Metal ramps usually come with a rough or studded finish. If your ramp is made of wood, you can add expanded steel mesh.

Pulling either requires a second person in the truck box pulling on a rope or strap tied to your handlebars, or a winch with a remote. To me, a winch to haul in your dirt bike seems like money better spent ON a dirt bike, but it's up to you.
The final option is manhandling your bike up into the box. If you're messing around with pit bikes, no problem. A 450? You better have a couple of real loyal friends with you.

Other vehicle options include cargo vans, or minivans with the back seats taken out. The positives include better protection for your dirt bike and a lower deck to load onto... negatives include a pervading gasoline smell that induces hallucinations or naps while driving.

Here's how NOT to haul your dirt bike on a vehicle.

TRAILERS

Another common dirt bike hauling solution is a trailer. Again, you have some choices. A lot of dirt bikers are also snowmobilers, so they use their snowmobile trailer in summer. This requires adding some wheel chocks or a barrier at the front to put the front wheels against. Fastening is the same as for truck boxes as described above. Since this type of trailer has no sides, I'd also recommend something to keep the back end of your dirt bike(s) from moving around as you go over bumps. You can screw down blocks of wood for the season, spaced for the rear wheel to sit between, or use additional straps or ropes at the back of your bikes.

If you have a trailer with sides, simply treat it like a truck box. My favorite trailer is the landscape type. It sits fairly low, can carry three small to mid-size bikes, a little bit of gear, and they usually have a combination rear gate/ramp. During the summer, I back the entire trailer into my garage, loosen up the straps, and then I'm ready to go riding next time with only about 15 minutes of prep.

If you're using a trailer, make sure you have it locked securely to the hitch and – if your hitch isn't welded on – make sure the hitch is locked securely to your vehicle. I've heard about a trailer with two dirt bikes being slipped out of it's “Hidden Hitch” receiver, trailer and hitch, and slipped into another vehicle's receiver and driven off... all because they saved $20 by not buying a locking hitch pin.

RACKS

If you only have one dirt bike to haul, a rack on the rear of your vehicle is a great solution. Most of these dirt bike carriers mount to your vehicle using the existing receiver. Typically, you hook on the supplied ramp, roll your dirt bike onto the carrier, and then strap it down. Better models let you store the ramp on the carrier itself, instead of your trunk or on the floor. Before you buy one, double-check the weight rating against the weight of your bike and load capacity of your vehicle. If your vehicle has a light duty suspension, you MAY have beef up the suspension. For a quick and cheap test, calculate the weight of your bike and carrier, and load up the back of your vehicle with an equivalent amount of weight (bodybuilding weights, bricks, whatever).
Here's a link to a guy that built his own. Dirt Bike Carrier.

To wrap it up, remember how much money you have invested in your bike, and haul it with all the care and caution it deserves.

Electric Dirt Bikes

2010-12-10T11:40:00.004-06:00

I realize that soon as I post this, it'll probably be outdated because the electric dirt bike industry is moving ahead in leaps and bounds – but for what it's worth...

Like it or not, the environmental movement is impacting the dirt bike world. The biggest criticisms leveled at dirt bike riders (and, to a smaller extent, motocross enthusiasts) are... 1) we're burning fossil fuels and contributing to global warming that may or may not exist and may or may not be affected by humans... 2) we're apparently contributing to the destruction of forests by riding through them... and 3) we're creating a whole lot of noise pollution.
In my personal opinion, the alarmists have exaggerated the problems created by dirt bikes, but the media loves to latch onto worst-case scenarios.

The solution for dirt bike riders may very well be an electric one. An electric dirt bike immediately solves two of the problems mentioned above. They don't burn fuel, and they're almost completely silent (imagine riding and only hearing the chain going over the sprocket!).

Up until a few years ago, the only electric dirt bikes were home-built franken-bikes mashed up from whatever motor and batteries could be found. Today, things are a whole lot different.
I haven't had the opportunity of riding an electric dirt bike myself, but the stuff I'm seeing and reading about looks VERY promising. I'm not endorsing any particular electric dirt bike at this point, but if you want to see where one company is at already, check out Zero Motorcycles.

From what I understand, their current electric dirt bikes will run for about 2 hours on a charge but the batteries are easy to swap in and out – so I imagine most riders would want a second battery pack.

The two biggest obstacles to mainstreaming electric dirt bikes are cost and tradition. Cost is going to keep going down though. When you take operating costs into account, you could already argue that electric dirt bikes are comparable to their gas-drinking counterparts. I also have a prediction – once the independent developers start selling enough electric dirt bikes to prove there's a solid market for them – the big boys are going to step in and the price will drop even more due to their mass manufacturing abilities and competition.

Tradition and momentum will be a bigger challenge. Say what you want, but perception is reality – and a motor rumbling and roaring makes a dirt bike feel more powerful than a silent hum or whir. But put your emotions aside for a moment and consider this. Electric motors deliver smooth, predictable power and have huge torque available at ANY speed. Your biggest problem will probably be keeping that front wheel on the ground when you twist the throttle. In fact, some electric bikes automatically deliver less power when starting from a standstill to keep you from ending up on your back looking up at the clouds. Plus, imagine never having to clean a carb, rebuild an engine, or repair a transmission.

I'm not much of an “early adopter” (I still don't own a cell phone) and I'd prefer to buy a dirt bike that lets me buy readily-available parts at the shop down the road – so it may be awhile before I dish out cash for an electric dirt bike. But I think we're going to see a big surge in development and available product. And again – I think it's just a matter of time before I can pick up my first Honda, Kawasaki, or Suzuki 250-E, or whatever.

And just think of the possibilities when our dirt bikes are quiet enough to ride in a good-sized back yard without disturbing our neighbors! Count me in.

If you've had a chance to actually ride an electric dirt bike, I'd love to hear what you think.

Repacking a Muffler or Silencer

2010-08-25T10:58:00.001-05:00

Dirt bike getting a little louder? Performance doesn't quite seem the way you remembered it? Chances are you need to repack your muffler (or silencer).

The way a dirt bike's muffler works is very simple, and so is repacking it. In a nutshell, your muffler is a large tube, with a narrower, perforated tube inside it. Between the two tubes is “soft stuff”, generally fiberglass. When fuel explodes in your piston, the sound and pressure wave travels down the exhaust to the muffler. The soft material absorbs a lot of the sound waves – it's the same science that allows movie gunmen to fire through a convenient pillow to muffle their shots.

In your dirt bike muffler, the fiberglass is assaulted by hot gases, moisture from condensation (and washing if you don't remember to plug the open end), and vibration. The spaces in the fiberglass get clogged up, and the material gets hard. Repacking the muffler simply means replacing the fiberglass.

First, check to see if you can get a repack kit for your specific dirt bike (if the muffler is OEM) or pipe (if it's after-market). A kit will have all the material you need and make the process a little easier. If a kit is unavailable, pick up some fiberglass packing from your local bike shop and at least as many rivets as your muffler already has holding the ends on.

And just because there's always one guy wondering... DON'T use fiberglass insulation meant for anything other than mufflers. It simply won't hold up.

Put on some long sleeves and have a pair of gloves handy. You'll be working with fiberglass and, even though the exposure is minor, the less you come in contact with it, the better. It actually wouldn't hurt to put on a dust mask either – again, better safe than sorry – because fiberglass dust and strands are easily airborne, and you don't want spun glass in your lungs if you can avoid it.

Remove the muffler from your dirt bike. On some bikes you'll be able to remove just the muffler, others will be easier if you take the whole assembly off.

NOTE: Some mufflers will use screws to hold everything together instead of rivets – FMF pipes for example. In this case, remove the screws and skip the part about rivets.

Using a small drill bit – the one provided in the kit, or one around 5-millimeters or 3/16-inch, give or take – carefully drill out the existing rivets holding the front or inlet end cap on. I can't cover every make and model of dirt bike or pipe, obviously, so use some common sense on the drill bit size. You want to drill out the shaft of the rivet, which is smaller than the head you can see. It's also a good idea to use a piece of masking tape to mark the end of your drill bit, so that you don't drill in too far – about 1 centimeter or 3/8-inch should do it.

Put on your glove and dust mask.

When the rivets are removed, you should be able to take off the inlet cap. It may pop right off, or it may be a tight friction fit. If it's tight, use some gentle persuasion with a plastic or wooden mallet. You can try a rubber mallet, but the mallets rounded edges will make it hard to connect with the edges of the cab. If you don't have a mallet, a chunk of lumber works. Use gentle taps and work your way around the cap.

When the cap is off, you should be able to carefully slide off the outer sleeve and packing material, leaving the inner sleeve attached to the inlet cap.

I haven't seen it, but I've heard that on some mufflers, the inner-sleeve is loose. If that's the case, you'll pack the fiberglass around the tube and insert the whole assembly into the outer sleeve.

Remove the old packing material, place it in a plastic garbage bag, and discard.

Gently clean the inner sleeve with a wire brush, and make sure all the openings or perforations are clear.

Now take your piece of new fiberglass packing and wrap it evenly around the inner sleeve. The packing should be just slightly wider than the diameter of the outer sleeve. It's okay if you have extra fiberglass left over. If you pack in too much, it'll actually decrease performance and increase the sound.

Now, rather than wrestle with loose ends and having wrap unwrapping when you don't want it to, put a strip of masking tape around the fiberglass at each end, and one in the middle. The masking tape will keep everything together for assembly, but burn off once you start riding.

Slip the outer sleeve back over the fiberglass and inner sleeve, and into the inlet cap. If you think the cap has too loose a fit, you can apply a thin bead of hight temperature silicon just before sliding everything together. Check to see if the silicon has a cure time, and don't run the bike before it's cured.

You can take off the gloves and mask now, if you want.

Make sure all the holes line up. Put the new rivets in.

Reinstall the muffler on your bike.

You're done.

As always though, I might have missed something, or you might have an awesome tip to add. Feel free to add any comments that'll help out all of us who ride.

Wheels - Sharpening Knobs

2010-05-07T10:49:00.003-05:00

The more you ride your dirt bike, the faster you're going to wear out the knobs on your tires. If you race competitively in motocross, replacing worn tires can quickly become a significant expense. Obviously, the best solution to a worn out dirt bike tire is a brand new tire, but I have a few thoughts and suggestions that may allow you to put off that purchase.

I'm mostly a weekend rider and enjoy some low-key riding with my younger sons – so a good tire can actually last quite a few seasons for me. That being said, I also like to go hard occasionally, on the track or on the trail; and every bit of traction counts. As well, I sometimes find a great deal on a used bike, often because the tires are worn (it makes the whole bike look more worn, so the seller usually has a lower price).

Replace, Reverse, or Razor

So what are your options when the knobs start rounding off? A lot of riders will roll their entire dirt bike or just the wheels into the local bike shop and have new rubber mounted. Really expensive and more than I'm willing to spend. The not-quite-as-expensive option is to buy new rubber and change the tire yourself. This might take you a whole Saturday afternoon the first time, but it's certainly doable if you have some upper arm strength. You can read up on how to change a tire HERE.

Does Your Dirt Bike Have a Reverse Gear?

I almost never ride my dirt bike in the direction my helmet's not pointing... and when I do, it's not on purpose. That means the tires are always spinning in the same direction and, more often than not, only one side of the knobbies are wearing down and rounding off. The solution here is to take the rubber tire off -- the same way you would to change it -- flip it, and re-install it facing the other direction.

Rubber Rejuvenation

Chances are real good that you still a have lot of rubber left on the tire... it's just that the corners are rounded off. The traditional solution is to clip a razor blade into a pair of locking pliers (Vise-Grips) and slice off enough of the knobby so that you end up with a sharp corner instead of the rounded one. The best way is to have your bike on a kickstand so that the back wheel is against the ground. That way you're not pinching the wheel between your legs while working with the razor. If you don't have a kickstand, support the bike any convenient way you can, as long as the wheel isn't spinning. Depending on how worn your tire is, you can probably sharpen your tire one to three times before you have to replace it.

Some guys speed up the process by using an angle grinder, but I recommend against that. It's way too easy to take way too much off the knobs and ruin the tire. The grinder also has a habit of grabbing and shooting off to the side.

New Technology!

While looking for tire sharpening options, I stumbled on a tool called the KnobbyKnife. (Just to be clear, I'm not getting a free one for mentioning it, and I'm not getting paid commission or anything like that... just thought it would be something dirt bike owners would be interested in. If you have one or used one, your opinions or reviews are welcome as comments.)

The KnobbyKnife was invented by a guy named Mark out in Soddy Daisy, Tennessee. Like a lot of us, he realized that regular riding was wearing down his tires faster than he could afford to replace them... and, like a lot of us, he hated changing tires.

The difference between him and most of us is that while he sat there cutting his tires with a razor blade, he was thinking of a better way to do it. After a lot of trial and error, he came up with what he calls the KnobbyKnife. It's basically a sharp edge hooked up to a heat source and it lets you shave a controlled slice off the face of each knob.

I haven't tried one myself, but it looks as easy as slicing cheese. There's a demonstration video on his website www.KnobbyKnife.com.

As always, if you have any tips or suggestions to add, I welcome your comments below.

Brake Maintenance

2010-04-01T15:55:00.001-05:00

I know that Throttle is the Universal Solution when you're out on a dirt bike or racing motocross, but every now and then a tree jumps into the trail you're riding... or you realize the crowd you're headed straight for isn't cheering, they're screaming. At those times, it's nice to know your dirt bike's brakes are going to work. So let's take a quick look at the kinds of brakes you'll find on a dirt bike, and what you can do to keep them working.

If you have an older bike, chances are it has drum brakes. On the outside you'll have a covered hub at the center of the wheel with a short arm that's usually connected to a rod for the rear brake, or a cable for the front. Your dirt bike might have drum brakes on both wheels, or just one. The drum is fixed to the wheel and on the inside there are two brake pads. When you activate the brake, the arm is pulled, which moves a cam on the inside, which presses the brake pads against the inside curve of the drum. When you release the brake, a set of springs in the drum, and a spring on the brake mechanism, will pull everything back to the open position.

Disc brakes have a disc/disk (go figure!) that is fixed to the wheel. The disc is also called a rotor. At one point on the disk, you'll see a mechanism straddling the edge of the disc. That mechanism has two brake pads, one on each side of the disc. When you activate the brake, those two pads “pinch” the disc between them. Instead of using a mechanical linkage or cable, disc brakes use hydraulic pressure. Your dirt bike's brake lever presses against the hydraulic fluid in the master cylinder. That pressure is transferred to pistons that press the pads against the disc. Thanks to the science of hydraulics, a little bit of pressure on the lever results in a LOT of pressure at the piston.

One challenge with hydraulic brake systems is that the standard plastic/rubber hoses will either stretch and/or swell, and/or flex when they're under pressure. The result is what you'll hear dirt bike riders refer to as mushy brakes – it's another way of saying you're not getting the precise control you want from your brakes. More expensive dirt bikes will use braided steel hoses (and occasionally solid lines) to eliminate or reduce mush. These are also available as after-market products if you want to upgrade your dirt bike's stopping ability.

Drum brakes and disc brakes both use brake pads. The trick with brake pads is you want them to have enough friction to slow down the dirt bike, but not so much that the slightest touch sends you over the handlebars. You also want them as durable as possible, but less durable than the drum or rotor/disc – because pads are cheaper and easier to replace than rotors and drums. As a result, there are a variety of brake pads for your dirt bike because different companies use different compounds to try and find the perfect balance of durability and performance. In the end, it's all going to boil down to a matter of personal preference and, as a rule of thumb, you get what you pay for.

Drum Brake Maintenance

The good news about dirt bike brakes is that they tend to keep working without putting a lot of effort into them. The bad news is if and when they do stop working, it's never at a good time (with the possible exception of when very irritating people are riding). So, even if the brakes are working, it pays to check on them regularly and spot problems BEFORE they become catastrophic.

No brake is maintenance-free, but drum brakes come close. The biggest thing you'll want to do with these is to keep them adjusted properly – a simple cable or linkage adjustment. As well, keep cables and linkages well lubricated.

At least once a season, you should crack open your dirt bike drum brakes and inspect the innards. If it's full of goop, gunk, or crud (sorry about the technical terms) you'll want to clean it. The easiest way is with a can of brake cleaner. Find a patch of ground you don't care too much about, and spray the sucker until it's gunk free. If you're an environmentalist and uncomfortable with getting brake cleaner on the ground, get a friend to do it while you close your eyes. Just kidding. You can do it over a bucket, and dispose of the residue in a responsible manner (like feeding it to random cats).

Inspect the brake pads. If they're worn and shiny on only a small portion, it means the brake pad, or shoe, is not contacting properly. I've never run into this problem, but I've been told you can sand the center of the shoe for a better fit. NOTE: A LOT OF BRAKE PADS CONTAIN ASBESTOS OR OTHER CARCINOGENS – WEAR A MASK IF SANDING OR BLOWING OUT DUST, ETC.

Check for broken or missing springs on the inside. If you're replacing the pads, it pays to replace the springs at the same time.

Other than that, make sure the moving parts are lubricated. Use waterproof grease and use it sparingly – you obviously don't want any making its way onto the pads or drum.

When you re-install the brake, apply it gently but firmly while tightening the axle nut. That'll help keep everything centered.

If you've decided to inspect your drum brakes because they don't brake well when they get wet, don't bother. The fact is, drum brakes are basically just for show once you've gone through a creek. The best remedy while riding is to ride the brake slightly to speed up evaporation of the water.

DISC BRAKE MAINTENANCE

As I mentioned earlier, disc brakes rely on hydraulic fluid. Generally speaking, the fluid that came with the bike will be fine – however, if you're a hard core dirt bike rider or frequent racer, your fluid can get hot enough to affect performance. High performance fluids are available.

The only things that are really going to affect your hydraulics are air and moisture. If your braking is starting to feel spongy, it's probably time to bleed it to get rid of air bubbles, or flush it completely to get rid of old (moisture-laded) fluid.

There are almost as many ways to bleed the brakes on dirt bikes as there are dirt bikes. If you think I missed something, or have an improvement to add, I welcome your comments.

Start with a couple of feet of clear tubing. Most home centers carry it in all sorts of sizes and sell it by the foot or meter (buy a few extra feet... the stuff comes in handy). At the halfway point, tie an overhand knot, but keep it loose.

Find the bleeder screw cap (you have a manual, right?). It should have a rubber cover or some sort of cap on it. Remove the cap and it'll look like a short metal tube with a hex fitting at the base. Find the correct wrench and loosen the bleeder slightly to get it moving, then snug it back down.

Place one end of your tubing onto the bleeder and the other end into a handy dandy receptacle – the back end of a random cat for example.

Open the bleeder again but keep the wrench and your wrenching hand handy. Slowly and evenly apply the brake and you'll see fluid moving through the tube and into the cat or other receptacle. When the fluid stops, generally when you've bottomed out the brake lever – KEEP THE BRAKE APPLIED – and tighten up the bleeder. Then you just keep repeating.

Check the fluid level in the reservoir every couple of pumps. If it gets too low you'll just introduce more air into the system.

You can either go until you think you've removed any air bubbles, or until you think you've cycled through all the old fluid. For the cost, I suggest going for the flush.

The one challenge in the whole process is that air bubbles want to rise up in a fluid. So trying to get an air bubble out your front brake line – which is mostly vertical – can be a pain. If regular bleeding doesn't get the air bubble out you can try a couple of things. One, get the brake assembly higher than the reservoir (disassembly required). Two, take the caliper off the disc/rotor, remove the reservoir cover, gently push the pads apart. This should push the fluid towards the reservoir, and hopefully take the bubble with it.

That's it for basic maintenance. I hope to get something together on rebuilding the master cylinder but I need to track down a rider or two with more experience on the subject. If you're one of those riders, and a decent writer, I'm open to guest posters. This site isn't about me and what I know... it's about riding and what ALL of us can learn. Drop me a line.

Take care, ride hard!

Chain Replace

2010-02-04T16:58:00.001-06:00

Whether you're a weekend trail rider or hard-core motocross competitor, you're going to end up with worn out parts on your dirt bike. Even if you follow all the chain tips we've covered elsewhere, it will still stretch and wear.

Some of the stretching is physical deformation of the links, however most of it is not actual factual stretching, but wear. Most of the wear will be in the chain rollers. As they wear, each one will get a tiny bit of extra play in them. These tiny bits of play all add up to create what most of us call "stretch". As the play between each roller gets bigger, your dirt bike's chain will start to ride higher on the sprocket teeth. The result is rounded or hooked teeth on your sprocket. Under normal circumstances, it pays to replace the chain and sprockets at the same time. The additional cost is minimal and prevents a bad sprocket from wrecking a new chain, and vice-versa.

Bear in mind that some chain stretching is normal. That's why you can adjust the rear wheel to sit further back, taking up some of the lack. But a chain breaking at speed has the potential to ball up at the case and cause some expensive damage.

You can tell if the chain is too far gone by supporting the chain in the middle (between the sprockets) with one hand, while using the other hand to try and pull the chain away from the rear sprocket. If the tension is adjusted as tight as it can go, and you can still pull the chain a quarter-inch or more from the sprocket, it's worn out.

Fortunately, replacing the chain and sprockets on a dirt bike is one of the easier maintenance jobs you can do on your own. This blog already has an article on replacing sprockets, so I'll mostly just cover the chain itself.

Start by removing the front chain guard and the front sprocket keeper.

Slip the chain off the front sprocket.

Once the chain is off the front sprocket, it's an easy matter to remove the rear wheel and remove it, along with the loop of chain.

Grab your new chain and reassemble everything in reverse order.

Yup. It's that easy.

Valentine's Day Card

2010-01-26T09:37:00.004-06:00

Sorry... a bit of shameless promotion. A Valentine's Day Card I designed. Turns out it can also be altered to be used for anniversaries, birthdays, what have you.

Clicking it takes you the card. If you want to see a whack of dirt bike and motocross I've designed when I couldn't be out riding, click here.

Motocross Dirt Bike Valentine's Day Card Funny by allanGEE
cards made on Zazzle

Build A Track - Construction

2010-01-22T16:03:00.002-06:00

I discussed planning a motocross track for your dirt bike back in a previous article (CLICK HERE). Now let's go over a few things to keep in mind when building a motocross track.

EQUIPMENT

Let's face it... if you have flat field and a shovel, you're not going to have 10-foot high jumps. No one wants to spend that much time shoveling. If that IS the case, take advantage of every bump and dip you can find.

For this article, I'll assume you have access to something that can push or lift a fair amount of dirt... maybe a farm tractor with a front-end loader, a skid steer, or even a quad with a snow clearing blade (just use it to lightly scrape the surface and push the results into a pile). If you have full-fledged excavating equipment, more power to ya!

MATERIAL

As I mentioned in the earlier article, you're going to need dirt to build a motocross track – probably a lot of it.

If you have a big enough piece of property, with the right soil conditions, you can just excavate all your dirt from one corner, or remove it from the side of a hill. Otherwise you need to get a little creative.

Creative option #1: See if there's any clean fill nearby. Sometimes you get lucky and someone needs a place to dump dirt. Check with people digging basements, or contractors digging lots of basements, highway crews, and so on.

Creative option #2: Build a pond. Pick a spot off to the side or in the middle of your track and excavate a hole with sloped sides. Use the excavated dirt to build your obstacles and the hole as a retention pond. The pond can also help you keep the track drained and dry, and provide a source of water for wetting and packing the track later. Bear in mind that once you start digging the hole, you'll need to finish the excavating before the next big rain, or have access to pumps to keep everything dry until you're done.

Creative option #3: Stack and bury. Find what you can to take the place of dirt. I've seen a lot of tracks that have rocks, logs, culverts and even scrapped vehicles under every jump. Just place the item(s) where you want the jump and cover with a layer of dirt. In this case, pay attention to the side of the jumps to make sure there's no sharp object or hard debris poking through. It's bad enough if you crash your dirt bike on a jump... worse if you smack yourself up on some jagged scrap metal or exposed concrete.

A variation of this technique is to dig a hole, fill it with your logs, or scrapped cars, and then use the excavated dirt on top. If the track is being built in a treed area, logs work really well. Cut them in six to eight foot lengths and lay them perpendicular to the track. Then stack the to get the rough height and shape you want. When you cover them with soil, they'll eventually rot and compost, turning to dirt as well (hey, an environmentally-friendly dirt bike track).

BUILDING OBSTACLES

Most of us want hills to climb or jump on our motocross track. Depending on the equipment you have access to, the building technique is going to change a little, but I think you'll get the picture after I describe a few of the things I've tried or seen done.

Let's assume you have something with a bucket. Grab your first load of dirt and head to where you want a jump. DON'T dump the dirt in the middle of the track – that's a good way to end up with terribly narrow jumps. Dump the dirt so that the middle of the pile ends up along the left or right edge of your track. On the second load of dirt, dump it so the middle pile ends up on opposite edge. If you're standing further back on the track, your two piles will have a vee between them, lining up with the centre of the track. No get a third bucket and dump it between the two piles.

Now, take a break and run your bike over the pile. You know you're dying to, so get it out of your system.

Okay, back to work. Add piles of dirt in front of, or behind the existing pile – always placing the left and right piles first, then the middle pile. Keep going until the base of the jump is as long as you want it to be. If you're building a table top, you might be done at this point. If you're going for a regular jump, you'll need to pack the first layer and then repeat the process, starting further back from the ends to get your overall rounded shape.

When it comes to packing you can either run the machinery you're using over the jump, or just have at it with your dirt bikes. If you're riding the jump into shape, you'll have to rake it regularly to fill in the ruts. (Note: you should rake out the ruts at the end of every riding day... that way, subsequent rain falls and sunny days will help pack the surface) The advantage to packing your jumps with your dirt bike is that you won't compress the entire jump as much (using less dirt). It's a good idea to seed some grass on the jump or let it weed up a little in this case. The roots will help hold everything together. You can cut it all down occasionally.

I'm purposely not going to get into specific heights for jumps, or how far apart they should be spaced – too much depends on the size of dirt bike you'll be using and how long you've been riding. If you've been riding for awhile, you'll figure it out as you go along... if not, try and find a riding friends to help you out, or pay attention to jumps you ride elsewhere. If you have to measure them or pace them out and transfer dimensions to your track.

I'm also not going to cover shaping the face of the jumps – it's just too hard for me to explain. If I get some time, I'll try and get some diagrams up. Again, pay attention to jumps you're already riding. Most of the time you'll see the face is not a flat, straight ramp, but has a bit of a curve (or belly) to help get you some air when you crest the lip.

One more tip for jumps. If you have some young or beginner motocross riders as well as more experienced dirt bike fans, you can taper off one side your jump at about a 30-degree angle. This gives you a low short jump on the low end, a full height jump on the other, and something for everyone in between.

My best advice for curves and turns is to start riding them, and then add dirt as you go along. They tend to flow better that way. If you want to build up a berm quickly, you can use old tires along the back side (most auto shops will give them to you for free since they have to pay to have them hauled away). If you have any hills or embankments, you can carve some awesome turns into those.

If you have a small space and a tight track, placing a turn in front of and close to a jump forces riders to keep their speed down, so smaller jumps work out great.

Build A Track - Planning

2009-12-31T14:04:00.003-06:00

What's better than riding a dirt bike or competing in motocross? Riding your dirt bike on your very own motocross track! Building your own motocross track may sound intimidating, but it IS do-able! This series of articles will give you enough information to get you started.

We'll break down the building of your own motocross track into phases. We'll start with location and planning.

When picking land for own dirt bike riding, you need to keep two important things in mind. The area available to you, and who else is in the neighborhood. An acre of land is big enough to build a track, but it's probably not a good idea if you have homes nearby. On the other hand, if you have 50 acres of forest and clear an acre in the middle of it, you could be surrounded by neighbors who may never know you're running dirt bikes (especially if you're riding 4-strokes). If you're trying to build a competition track, you'll need about 400 feet by 250 feet of area. If you only need enough space for two or three bikes at a time, you can do it in a smaller area.

Make sure you check out by-laws and local regulations as well. I know of one rural area where it's okay to build a personal motocross track, but only for use by the owner of the property and his or her family. In other words, you can't have a dozen of your friends out riding dirt bikes on the weekend.

If the track you're going to build is not where you live day to day, will you be able to keep people off of it? You want to avoid strangers coming in and wrecking the track or vandalizing anything in the area, and you want to avoid some idiot suing you for hurting himself while riding on your property. At the very least, you'll need to post “Private Property” and “No Trespassing” signs. If you're out in the country, “No Hunting” signs are also a good idea. You don't need an enthusiastic hunter hurling bullets in your direction. On the other hand, if the closest neighbor has a couple of kids with dirt bikes, allowing them to ride your track may win you a lot of points. You'll probably want them to sign a waiver though.

So, assuming you have a suitable piece of land, it's time to map it out. If it's an open field, you can do it with a 100 meter/yard tape measure. If there's bush or forest, beg, borrow, or buy a newer GPS unit, and get some software. There is some free GPS mapping software available, and the program I use can be found HERE.

Make a rough sketch or map of the area you're going to build on. Are there rocky areas? Low spots? Hills? Water or swamp? Depending on the type of riding you want to do, you can avoid some areas or incorporate them into your track.

This is also a good time to get an idea of what kind of building material you have access to. Jumps take more dirt than you think. There are tricks to get around this, and I'll cover them in the building phase. The soil should be clay-based – something you can pack -- so it doesn't erode quickly. If the dirt is soft and loamy, you'll end up doing a lot of track repairing and grooming.

Once you have your map. Sit around for a few days (or weeks) and sketch out possible track layouts. Again, this is YOUR track, so design it the way YOU want it. If you like whoops, there's nothing stopping you from putting in four sections of them. Like table tops more than doubles? Load your track with them.

Also keep in mind the kind of dirt bikes and dirt bike riders that will be on the track. You can pack a whole lot of fun into a small area with smaller jumps if you're into pit bikes. Younger or beginner riders will want smaller jumps to build up their confidence. If you want to go screaming around on a 450, you'll need to scale everything up.

Keep the terrain you mapped out in mind. If there's a hill or even a slight rise, putting a jump there can save you a lot of dirt. The bottom edge of a hill is an easy place to carve out a berm. A pile of rocks is better on the inside of a turn than the outside.

The focus of these articles is creating a motocross-style track, but keep another option in mind – if you have the space, you can create an excellent trail to ride. One guy I know has 60 acres of bush with a small track in the centre, as well as close to three miles of trail surrounding it. By zig zagging your trail, you can pack a lot of riding into a small area, and you can still add jumps along the trail.

Once you have what you think is a good layout, head back to your property with some stakes or flags. With map in hand, walk out your track and mark track sections with your stakes. You may find that something that looked great on paper, jut doesn't work on your piece of property, or that if you move a jump over a little, you can use a natural hill to build it. If at all possible, once you've staked things out, ride the track to see how it feels. Are the straights long enough? Are the jumps spaced okay?

Make adjustments and keep tweaking until you're comfortable with the layout.

Then it's time to start building. You'll find that article by clicking HERE.

Christmas Poem

2009-12-15T08:43:00.011-06:00

by allanGEE

'Twas right around Christmas, and at the North Pole
Santa and reindeer were ready to roll.
But the presents and sleigh were still stored away
'Cause something much different would happen that day.
There side by side they lined up in their place
For the North Pole's first-ever motocross race.
The track was prepared and lookin' quite nice,
A challenging mix of dirt, snow, and ice.
With a roar they all started, for position they fought
When Santa revved hard to make the ho-ho-ho-holeshot.
At the very first jump, Blitzen got into trouble
(He did a great single, but the jump was a double).
Then they took the next turn -- well, all except Donder...
He went straight ahead and crashed way out yonder.
Santa scrubbed the next jump and pulled out ahead,
Vixen tried too, but endo'd instead.
Then down-shifting once, the rest hit the next curve;
Dasher leaned hard, but started to swerve.
Then he over-corrected, hit the throttle AND brakes...
Dasher's now "Crasher" and every part aches.
Dancer and Prancer tried to take second and third
But Santa shot roost and their vision was blurred.
They first hit each other, and then hit the dirt,
Out of the race, both of them hurt.
Then Comet and Cupid followed old Nick
Into the whoops, but a little too quick.
Comet bounced high, Cupid hit low,
Both ended up neck-deep in the snow.

Santa was the winner, of that there's no doubt
And as he blew past the finish we all heard him shout,
"If you want a Christmas present, just sit on my knee.
If you want to come in second, just follow me!"

Just a reminder that this is copyrighted. You're welcome to link to it, but I'd appreciate it if you didn't steal it. Thanks, and take care!

Sprocket Replacement

2009-09-11T14:33:00.001-05:00

I once visited a guy who had recently bought a used dirt bike from someone who bragged about being a motocross champion. My friend proudly showed me his new-to-him dirt bike and pointed out the “racing” sprocket on the rear tire. The seller of the dirt bike told him the hook-shaped sprocket teeth grabbed the chain better for racing.

The seller may or may not have been a racer, but he was definitely dishonest. The sprocket was completely worn out (creating the curved teeth), and the chain along with it.

Fortunately, replacing a dirt bike's sprockets (it pays to replace the front and back right away) is relatively straight-forward and inexpensive.

Most dirt bike repairs are easier to do if the bike is up off the ground, and this one is no exception. Get it up on a stand (or blocks of wood, or a pile of dead cats, or what have you) so that rear wheel is off the ground.

Undo the rear axle nut. This can take a lot of effort and strain – it's best if someone holds your dirt bike so that it doesn't tip and leak gas... and no one should stand behind you in case you strain too hard and leak gas.

Once the rear axle nut is off, loosen off the rear wheel tensioners, or adjusters – those nuts you turn to tighten or loosen your chain. Loosening these now will give you a little more play and wiggling room for the next step.

Remove the rear axle. Watch for other parts that may want to fall off and hit the floor, especially those associated with the brakes.

Remove the rear wheel. Watch for even more parts that may try and leap to their death. Slip the chain off the wheel.

At this point, I like to set the dirt bike's rear wheel on a pail or crate with the sprocket facing up and the brake disc facing down – protected from the accidental clumsy-ninja-with-nunchuks impression I inevitably end up doing while wielding wrenches.

Undo the bolts holding the sprocket to the wheel and remove it. The old sprocket is generally useless so you can scrap it – or give it to one of the neighborhood kids who will then think you are really cool. This can buy you some goodwill with the neighbors the next time you tear down the street to test your latest repairs.

Clean away any dirt or grit that might have built up on the rear wheel and bolt the new sprocket in place. This may seem obvious but, just in case, if your dirt bike has a dish-shaped sprocket, make sure you put it on the same way the original one was facing. Thread locking compound (such as Loctite) is a good idea for the sprocket bolts BUT place a little under the countersunk head to help prevent them from spinning. If the nuts are self-locking or have lock washers, thread lock won't be needed on the threads.

TIP: For the couple of extra bucks it'll cost, it's worth using new bolts for the rear sprocket.

Now move on to the front sprocket.

Remove the front chain guard and whatever is holding your front sprocket onto your dirt bike (the sprocket keeper). This will usually be a large nut and lock washer, an E-clip, or a clip that's bolted to the sprocket

If you bought your bike used and it has an E-clip, chances are someone has replaced the original nut and washer. You can check with your local dirt bike parts shop – give 'em the model and year and they can tell you what the factory part is/was – or just take a close look at the front sprocket assembly. The lock washer will fit over teeth that are machined into the counter shaft to keep it from turning. Then, once the nut is in place, a part of the washer gets bent up against one of the flats on the nut to keep the nut from turning. If you have an E-clip, just pull it off... if you have bolts, lefty loosey.

Installing the sprocket is just the reverse of what you did above.

It's usually a good idea to change the chain when you change sprockets. Your call. Slip the chain over the front sprocket, then over the rear sprocket. Slide the rear wheel in place and slide in the axle. Put the axle nut on loosely. Snug up the tensioners or adjusters, and then tighten down the axle nut.

Remember to check your chain tension at short intervals for the first ride. And, after that, well you're already checking your dirt bike's chain before every ride... right?

Steep Downhills

2009-09-04T11:42:00.003-05:00

You've been there. You ride your dirt bike to the top of a hill and then lock your brakes up at the top when you see the steep drop on the downhill side. There's a trail... so other dirt bikes have gone down there. There are no skeletons wearing helmets at the bottom... so apparently they survived.

Whether you're dealing with a short, steep drop off, or a longer downhill ride, the technique is pretty much the same.

Most dirt bike riders, when confronted with a steep drop, will tend to drop to the seat because that feels the most secure. The first thing you have to do is get your butt off the seat. And, here's the part I love to say -- stay relaxed. Yes, you might be nervous, but tensing up will result in losing some control of your steering, braking, and balance.

Make sure you pick and start traveling at the speed you want before you begin to tackle the slope. In general, if you're feeling confident halfway down it's not a big deal to pick up speed. If you panic on the way down it's a lot harder to slow down and keep the dirt bike under you where it belongs. On your way down, you should be using about twice as much rear brake as front brake. Too much front brake and you're going to beat your dirt bike to the bottom.

Keep your body loose, stay up on the pegs in a crouched position.

As you would with any obstacle, figure where you're going to go at the end of it.

Steering Head Bearing

2009-08-31T15:17:00.005-05:00

If you ended up on this article via a search engine, you probably typed in a phrase like loose triple clamps or too much play in your forks, or adjusting the handlebar tension. The terminology you're probably looking for is a loose steering head bearing on your dirt bike– which is what this article covers.

First of all... does your dirt bike NEED to have the steering head bearing adjusted? Those of you who are seasoned dirt bike trail riders or motocross competitors will already know how to check. Newer or infrequent riders may not even know what I'm talking about. So here's how to check your dirt bike's triple clamp or steering head bearing.

Raise your dirt bike so that the front wheel is completely off the ground, but in an upright position. Stand, kneel or, if it's been a long day, sit in front of the dirt bike and grab the bottom of the forks. Pull gently back and forth. If the wheel assembly moves front to back, it's definitely time to tighten things up. If your dirt bike's steering head bearing is this loose it will (and hopefully already hasn't) wear that nice circular hole into an oblong one.

Your steering head bearing may not be as loose as above, but still need some tightening. The second test you'll want to do is, again, with your front wheel off the ground. Turn the handlebars all the way to one side and flick the handle bars. You should only get one bounce, maybe two. Also, the handlebars should be easy to move from side to side, but shouldn't flop over to one side when you let go.

Following is the quick and easy way to adjust the tension on your steering head bearing. You may have to remove a couple of things to get to the parts, but many dirt bikes have everything exposed and accessible, so you'll be done in no time. There may be some slight variation between different models of dirt bikes, but the basics are the same.

Once again, start with the front wheel off the ground. You absolutely cannot do this with the dirt bike resting on the front wheel.

If you have to remove any parts – for example, the handlebar – mark them before removal so you can put everything back exactly where you had it and want it.

Loosen the fork clamp bolts – also referred to as pinch bolts – so that the fork tubes can move independently of the steering stem.

Now loosen the steering head nut, which is sometimes called the crown nut. The steering head nut is labeled as #1 in the diagram. You probably don't have to remove it completely.

You're now ready to tighten the adjusting nut(s) – there's usually one, but sometimes a second one as a lock nut. The adjusting nut is labeled as #2 in the diagram. You'll notice the adjusting nut is basically a ring with notches in it – also called a ring nut. A special wrench is available for the adjusting nut. However, I personally never have to adjust this very often, so I'm comfortable just setting a screwdriver in one of the notches and gently tapping the handle of the screwdriver with a mallet or hammer. The choice is yours.

Make slight adjustments, tightening a little at a time, and then check the play in the steering. Most manuals call for you to eliminate all play when you grab the bottom of the forks and rock them back and forth, but not so tight that it binds or sticks when you turn the steering side to side.

Once you have the bearing adjusted properly, re-tighten the head nut. Double check for play and binding. Then re-tighten the fork clamp bolts. Torque everything to the specs in your dirt bike's manual.

Perform the steering head bearing checks mentioned above after you've done some more riding on your dirt bike, and then check periodically after that.

Suspension - Front Fork Seals

2009-08-26T10:15:00.008-05:00

While researching information on replacing the seals on your dirt bike's front forks, I came across this great step-by-step video. When I have time, I hope to create some step-by-step notes that you can print as well -- that way you can watch the video on fork seals, then head to the garage with your fork rebuilding notes to remind you what to do next. If any of you beat me to it, feel free to post them as a comment and I'll reformat them so everyone can print them. In the meantime, here's what you need to know about rebuilding the front fork seals on your dirt bike.

2009-06-18T11:30:00.003-05:00

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GPS & Dirt Bikes

Should you consider getting a GPS (Global Positioning System) unit for your dirt bike and trail riding? First let's take a look at what GPS does.

There are over two dozen GPS satellites hovering overhead, emitting signals. A GPS unit (Garmin being one of the most well-known brands) will calculate it's location on the globe by triangulating it's position relative to 3 or more of those satellites. The more satellites being received, the more accurate your GPS position will be.

Prior to the year 2000, GPS signals included something called selective availability. In short, the signal was made fairly inaccurate, on purpose. Only the military had access to the better, far more accurate signal. However, selective availability has now been removed, and even the most basic GPS units are accurate to within 3 to 10 meters, and many of the newer models are even more accurate.

Most newer GPS units also use WAAS. WAAS, or Wide Area Augmentation System is a system of satellites and ground stations that provide GPS signal corrections for even better position accuracy -- up to five times better. And there's no need to buy additional receiving equipment or pay service fees to utilize WAAS.

With a GPS unit, you can locate trails for dirt bike riding, if you have the latitude and longitude coordinates. If you discover a trail, you can note the coordinates of the starting point, or use your GPS unit's tracklog feature. With a tracklog, you can keep it stored on your GPS unit – which will also allow you to backtrack – or download the coordinates to GPS software to create printed maps. A great program for this is Mapwel, which I'll discuss in more detail further down the page.

A GPS unit will also allow you to participate in geocaching – a great addition to trail riding. Geocaching is basically a high-tech treasure hunt. Caches are hidden and listed on the Internet (try Geocaching.com) with only their coordinates and sometimes additional clues. The caches generally include a logbook and pencil to record visitors, and tokens or prizes that can be traded.

Most newer GPS units include maps that you can follow – however there are very few undocumented trails on those supplied maps. One great option is creating your own custom maps – I recommend Mapwel. Mapwel is free to try and quite reasonably priced if you want the full set of features.

One thing I like about Mapwel is the ability to customize a map for my Garmin GPS. For example, there are some great trails I love to ride in a wooded area, but they don't show up on the supplied MapSource maps. After riding the trails and recording my routes on the tracklog, I can download the waypoints and routes to Mapwel. Using those coordinates as a starting point, I can draw in trails and reference points like hunting cabins, fences, etc. I can even use scanned in maps or downloaded aerial shots as a reference – kind of like tracing. Mapwel then converts the map into a GPS compatible format and uploads it to my Garmin. Now, when I ride, I can see where I am on the actual trail, instead of just being a dot in the middle of a detail-less map.

The biggest tip I can offer when creating maps is to calibrate it from GPS readings you've taken with YOUR unit, on location, whenever possible. Google Maps and Google Earth can be off by quite a bit.

I've included a list of some of the Mapwel features from their website below. Or just click here.

Import of files, files merging

Mapwel supported GPS units require maps in vector format. Therefore, easiest way of how to create map for GPS is to import files in ESRI *.shp, *.gpx or other vector format into Mapwel, merge them together and assign proper type to all map objects. Mapwel also supports import of raster images and their automatic and manual vectorization.

Projections and datums

imported files in both vector and raster format (especially *.shp files) may use various projections and geographic systems. Mapwel supports hundreds of the commonly used systems, including UTM (Universal Transverse Mercator). Internal format of map data in Mapwel is WGS84, because this format is also internal format of the GPS units. Although user can select various coordinate systems in GPS, coordinates are always calculated from WGS84 format. Therefore, Mapwel converts all input data into WGS84.

Autovectorization

If you need to get raster image into GPS with just a few mouse clicks, this is the right tool for you. Mapwel provides Automatic "one-click" vectorization of raster images (satellite imagery or scanned maps). Garmin units do not allow to load raster image directly into the GPS and use it as a map. Therefore, this function automatically vectorizes raster image and creates vector file compatible with GPS.

Map Georeferencing

Mapwel provides two approaches to establish relation between raster image and map coordinate system: 1. direct calibration, 2. separate image editing and map georeferencing. In both cases, result is a map with Lat/Lon grid parallel to the screen edges and coordinates assigned to left, right, top and bottom edge of the map. Click here to find out more >>

User defined styles

GPS units use basic (pre-defined) and user-defined sets of polygon patterns, line styles and symbol icons. Mapwel provides easy-to-use editor of user styles, which are supported by most of the new Garmin GPS. Click here to find out more >>

Map Drawing

Map can be drawn from the scanned paper chart, aerial photos, satellite images and/or with use of tracks and waypoints imported from your GPS. Mapwel allows to draw map with use of straight lines and curves. When drawn with curves, map can be uploaded into the GPS with chosen precision/data-size ratio. User can apply Contrast, Brightness and Gamma filters to the scanned chart or satellite image to adjust the background for convenient drawing of vector objects on the top. To make drawing of complex objects easier, Mapwel provides Opening in the Area tool.

Tools

Mapwel tools help to manage maps in your GPS, which are normally not accessible, or hard to manipulate because they are all merged into a single file.
' Add maps to other maps in GPS' function allows to add your map to those already present in the GPS memory. 'Delete specific maps in GPS' allows to erase individual maps from your map set. 'Merge IMG files' alllows to combines several maps into a single file for use with Nüvi, Zümo, Colorado, Oregon or unit, which memory is directly accessible from Windows.

Other Mapwel tools help to create map faster. For example, 'Create Circle around Point' function for aviation maps creates 'circles' of defined radius around all selected points. Very large 'circles' look deformed near poles, because of coordinate system projection. However, real-world distance from center to any point on the "circle" is the same.

Freehand Tool

Unlike the other Mapwel drawing tools, which are based on the precise manual placement of the nodes, curves and lines, Freehand tool allows to draw many of the Mapwel objects very fast with a free hand. Strokes are automatically converted into the chosen style. After conversion, strokes can be edited as other vector objects (node by node).

Trace Tool

This is another tool for faster vectorization of the raster image. It allows to vectorize one object (or set of similar objects) at once, but it cannot vectorize whole map with different types of objects at once. Tracing should be repeated for respective types of objects (filled areas, roads, rivers, etc.). Trace tool works on images with any common color depth (including True Color and bi-tone) that are sufficiently clean.

Object Inspector

Object Inspector box at right side of the main Mawpel window displays information about respective map objects and simplifies the object manipulations. It also allows to select one or several objects in the work space.

WYSIWYG

Mapwel allows to draw the map in any colors you choose and the 'What you see is what you get' interface (WYSIWYG) shows how the map will look like on the color or monochrome GPS display. Mapwel also simulates the Nighttime and Marine color modes. When drawing the map, use display mode tabs in the left bottom corner of the Mapwel screen to review your map in the real GPS colors.

Properties of Objects

Each object has adjustable properties like name, comment (text that is displayed in GPS when cursor stays on top of the object), type, max. zoom level, etc. POI (points of interest) may have address and phone number assigned.
It is also possible to define properties of the whole map, like name, copyright text, address format, internal map ID, map draw priority and zoom levels of map layers.

Automatical Object Splitting

GPS rendering engine requires large areas and lines to be split into smaller objects because of the data structures limitations and speed of map rendering. Mapwel splits all objects automatically without loss of the map detail when it uploads map into the GPS. User does not have to bother about the object size or detail limitations. Splitting process runs internally without user even knowing about it.
Accuracy

Both technical and software limitation of GPS units restrict accuracy of maps (see the Accuracy table). This restriction is related to the map scope. It means that very large map is represented in GPS with lower accuracy than the small or normal size map. Mapwel automatically converts all map data into the best possible accuracy level.

Map Uploading and Export

Finished map can be saved into Mapwel *.mpw file format, exported into *.img, *.kml or other supported format, or uploaded directly into the GPS. Export of map into other than *.mpw file is supported by Mapwel Advanced version only. Mapwel includes separate MapUpload program for loading *.img files into the GPS. MapUpload also allows to pack several img files into a single executable file to distribute to your friends or customers.

Scrubs & Whips

2009-02-10T16:49:00.004-06:00

(Scrubbing Whipping)

Not that many years ago, the scrub (or scrubbing) didn't exist in the dirt bike motocross world. Today, the Bubba Scrub, perfected by James Stewart, is a part of everyone's racing and riding vocabulary.

First, let's define the difference between a whip and a scrub. For the most part, a whip is about looking cool during flight, or to set up for corners. A scrub is used to “scrub” off height (not speed as is often said) when going over a jump, generally in a motocross setting. Simple high school physics proves that when you're in the air you're losing speed – unless you're in the air as a result of riding your dirt bike off the top of a very tall building, or out the back of an airplane. The quicker you get your tire back on the ground, the faster you can go.

WHIP FOR SHOW, SCRUB TO GO!

Secondly, let me point out that I am nowhere near an expert on scrubbing a dirt bike over a jump. I'm more of a scrubbing a dirt bike after I tumble it in the dirt at the “oh no” end of a jump – takes lots of soap and water to get the dirt out. But following is an overview from a lot of online, book, and article research, and from talking with motocross riders. If I've missed a tip, by all means let me know.

When you're judging how good a scrub is, the two things you want to measure is how low the dirt bike is, and how flat you move it through the air. Here's how you can try to do both...

You're going to want traction. You're going to want a LACK of traction. In other words, you want enough slippage so your dirt bike will slide a little bit. This will mostly depend on the type of tire you're riding on, how worn it is or isn't, and your tire pressure. Chances are you already have a comfortable combination of sliding and traction – if not tweak your air pressure.

Throttle Solution Dirt Bike Motocross Poster by allanGEE
Browse the poster Designs at Zazzle.com
More Motorcycle Racing Posters

As you head for the jump you want to scrub, hit it at an angle opposite to the way you're going to lean. Approach the lip heading slightly to the right if you're going to be leaning left. Just before you leave the face of the jump, turn the wheel back to the left. If you did it right, your dirt bike should whip back to the direction you want to head in the air. Everyone hates feeling the front tire wash out (slide) but it actually needs to a little at this point. Squeeze the bike hard with your knees and keep weight on the opposite side you're scrubbing on. Snap your front wheel the opposite way as you takeoff so that your dirt bike starts to straighten up. Now that you're in the air, focus on the landing. This point in the jump will most likely lead to increased prayer intensity as well.

Once that back wheel is planted firmly in the dirt – and assuming you're still on the dirt bike – take advantage of the situation, crack the throttle, and pull ahead of the rest of the motocross pack.

Simple, isn't it? ;)

The bottom line is it's going to take LOTS of practice and commitment. If you're already comfortable with whips, you can start working on scrubs. If not, put in some whip practice time. Trying to scrub without knowing how to whip, is like me trying to come up with a similar funny situation to write about without having a sense of humor.

If you want to see an incredible scrub, Control-T or Control-N yourself to YouTube and type in “ Blake Gillard scrub”. And if you found any of this helpful, feel free to mention this Blog in the comments.

Dirt Bike and Motorcycle Quotes, Jokes, Funny Sayings, and Pictures

2008-11-05T13:25:00.020-06:00

Well I finally got around to revising the Dirt Bike Humor page. Down below you'll find funny quotes, some jokes, sayings, pictures and more about dirt bikes and motocross. I've reorganized the funny stuff I already had, and added quite a few more cool quotes and sayings.

Some of these have been taken from, or added to, some funny dirt bike shirts, and mugs and such, so I've added links to those where I could.

As always, if you have something to add, we'd love to see it in the comments section.

DIRT BIKE & MOTOCROSS QUOTES

As much as possible, I'd like to give credit to whoever said these, so if I've attributed something to the wrong person, prove it and I'll fix it. Thanks!

That's all the motorcycle is, a system of concepts worked out in steel.
Robert M. Pirsig, Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance

Four wheels move the body. Two wheels move the soul.
Author Unknown

Keep your dirt bike in good repair: motorcycle boots are not comfortable for walking.
Author Unknown

Faster, faster, faster, until the thrill of speed overcomes the fear of death.
Hunter Thompson
See it on a shirt!

A motorcycle functions entirely in accordance with the laws of reason, and a study of the art of motorcycle maintenance is really a miniature study of the art of rationality itself.
Robert M. Pirsig, Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance

Life is too short for traffic.
Dan Bellack
See it on a shirt!

People are more violently opposed to fur than leather because it's safer to harass rich women than dirt bike riders.
Author Unknown

Motorcycle racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty.
Peter Egan
See it on a shirt!

A narrow track of dirt through the forest isn't a trail -- it's an attitude.
Author Unknown

DIRT BIKE & MOTOCROSS SAYINGS

Over 50 Dirt Bike & Motocross Quotes and Sayings On One Poster! by allanGEE
View more Dirt Posters

Most of these have been passed back and forth at the track or along the trail for years. A couple are inspirational, most are just plain funny. If you can prove the original source, let me know and I'll give credit where it's due.

The race goes to the swift. But sometimes none of them show up, and the rest of us have a shot at it.
See it on a shirt!

Regular maintenance is the key to reliability; irregular maintenance is the key to great exercise.

The 3-percent rule: If you want to go faster, ride with people who are 3-percent faster than you.

The other 3-percent rule: If you want to have fun, ride with people who are 3-percent slower than you.

You've got to finish to win. Of course, you've got to be fast to win too, otherwise everybody would be doing it.
See it on a shirt!

There is no physical training regimen so strict that it can't be undermined by a rigorous program of deferred motorcycle maintenance.

There are old racers and there are bold racers, but there are no old, bold racers who don't walk funny.
See it on a shirt!

Patience is a virtue of many racers. Unfortunately, it's also a virtue of a lot of losers.

The wise racer only ticks off the people he can beat.

The secret of successful race tuning is knowing when to start riding and stop tuning.

You can't 2-½ a triple. At least not a second time.
See it on a shirt!

A man never stands so tall as when he stoops to let the air out of a competitor's tire.

Never underestimate the power of good old-fashioned intimidation.
See it on a shirt!

Motocross is like football -- but without a bunch of guys showering together when it's done.
See it on a shirt!

90% of my paycheck goes towards dirt bikes (the rest is just wasted).
See it on a shirt!

The more complete your on-board tool-kit, the more likely it is that all your trail riding buddies will expect you to fix everything that breaks on their bikes.

A good rider can overcome marginal equipment. However, even the best equipment can't overcome a marginal rider.

Ruts are like side-panel screws: just when you think you're in the right groove, you get cross-threaded.

Blood in your stool is nature's way of suggesting that you rethink your spring rates.
Yup... if you have the guts, you can wear it on a shirt ...or have it on your mug ...or put it on the wall

The good news is that heaven has a motocross track. The bad news is you're racing next Tuesday.
See it on a shirt!

I know there's money in motocross. I put it there!
See it on a shirt!

Uninsurable. Competes in Motocross.
See it on a shirt!

There are places on Earth that quads simply won't fit. Unfortunately, quad riders aren't aware of this.

Gravity intensifies with the installation of new levers.

You only have one chance to make a first-turn impression.

Scientists call it C9 H13 NO3. You call it adrenalin. I call it my dirt bike.
See it on a shirt!

If you want to come in second... follow me!
See it on a shirt!

I'm Motoxicated!
See it on a shirt!

I never lose. I only run out of laps, gas, or time.
See it on a shirt!

Careful maintenance and preparation is critical to making your dirt bike is reliable enough to tow your buddy's bike back to the truck.

Winning riders never have "left over" parts.

Riding faster than everyone else only guarantees you'll ride alone... and I'm okay with that.

Winning isn't easy... I just make it look that way.
See it on a shirt!

Dirt bikes are not for wimps. They are, however, quite suitable for the clinically insane.
See it on a shirt!

Scars – the original tattoo – invented by nature, perfected by dirt bikes.
See it on a shirt!

A bike in the dirt is worth two on the pavement

Whatever it is, it's better in the dirt

Only the guy who finished second remembers who came in second.
See it on a shirt!

Never spit at a competitor when you're wearing a full-face helmet.

If you think riding gets the adrenalin pumping, try getting a wasp in your helmet.

Companion wanted. Male motocrosser seeks caring and generous lady with her own dirt bike. Please send photo of dirt bike.
See it on a shirt!

In case of dirt bike injury, please reassemble as indicated.
Only makes sense when you see the shirt...

The dirtier it gets, the better it looks.

No one ever wins an argument with a tree.

You can't beat gravity in a fair fight, but sometimes you can sneak up behind it and punch it in the head.

Gray-haired riders don't get that way with just luck ( ____ years old and still riding)

I plan to leave this world the same way I came in – screaming and covered in blood.
See it on a shirt!

If people focused on the important things in life, there'd be a shortage of dirt bikes.

Gravity is for the weak.
See it on a shirt!

Real motorcycles don't have gauges.
See it on a shirt!

Resist the path of least resistance.
See it on a shirt!

If you come between me and the finish line, there will be blood. And dirt bikes don't bleed.

Silly boys, dirt bikes are for girls.
See it on a shirt! Or the bumper sticker!

The shortest distance between two points is for people who can't ride.

Wrecks perfectly good dirt bikes.
See it on a shirt!

My dirt bike is a gift from my children, purchased with money they will not inherit.

You don't stop riding when you get old. You get old when you stop riding.
See it on a shirt!

All I remember is dirt sky dirt sky dirt sky ambulance.
See it on a shirt!

You will never see dirt bikes in the psychiatrist's parking lot.

Failure IS an option – a bone-breaking, flesh-tearing, excruciatingly painful option.

Know your limits... exceed them often.
See it on a shirt!

I live with fear every day. But on weekends I leave her at home and go ride my dirt bike.
See it on a shirt!

I used to crash a lot. I still do... but I used to too.
See it on a shirt!

The older I get, the faster I was.

Full Throttle – solves the problem or ends the suspense.

Full Throttle – the ultimate solution.
See it on a shirt!

When life throws you a curve... lean into it, pick your line, and keep your weight on the outside peg.

I'd rather be a rider for a minute, than a spectator for a lifetime.
See it on a shirt!

Grip. Twist. Ride.
See it on a shirt!

Dirt me.
See it on a shirt!

Whaddya mean ride it “like” I stole it?
See it on a shirt!

Apparently this is NOT my lucky shirt.
Only makes sense when you see the shirt.

I want a dirt bike like mommy's.

If it has two wheels and an engine, I don't care who built it, just let me ride it.

Never mistake horsepower for staying power.

Happiness is finding you have another gear.

Happiness is finding you still have more throttle.

If you love your dirt bike and let it go... and it comes back... you're in the middle of a crash.

Riding is living. Everything else is just waiting.

Spas would charge a fortune for all the mud I've had on my face.

If she changes her oil more than she changes her mind – marry her!

The most dangerous part of a dirt bike is the nut that connects the handlebars to the seat.
See it on a shirt!

Dirt bike rider color verification system. Red Neck. Blue jeans.
See it on a shirt!

Is your mom here today? Or are you just riding her dirt bike?
See it on a shirt!

Dirt bikes don't leak oil, they mark their territory.

The best alarm clock is a 2-stroke starting at dawn.

Helmet not wore when go ride, and no damaging so far brain yet!
See it on a shirt!

I ride a bullet... a two-wheeled, multiple-explosion powered machine with enough moving parts to remove entire fingers and surfaces hot enough to cook flesh. It propels me at neck-breaking, bone-snapping, flesh-shredding, speeds over and through obstacles I can see only as blurs. It's a sport that kills the careless, maims the best, and spits at the concept of mercy. Now what were you saying about your new golf shoes?
See it on a shirt!

Death rides. Ride faster.
See it on a shirt!

What do you call a dirt bike rider who doesn't wear a helmet? An organ donor.

Dirt is for riding. Pavement is just to get you there.
See it on a shirt!

If you don't ride in the dirt, you don't ride.

Catching a yellow-jacket in your jersey halfway through a double can double your vocabulary.

Only a dirt biker knows why a dog sticks his head out of a car window.

Eat dirt and bleed gasoline.
See it on a shirt!

Well-trained reflexes are quicker than luck.

Don't argue with a tree.

Life is not a journey with the goal of arriving quietly and safely in one pristine piece... but a chance to twist the throttle until it sticks full open... to leap over, slide under, or hammer through obstacles... to look fear in the eye and backhand it in the head... to skid, slip, or stumble across the finish line, out of gas, leaking oil and blood... covered in dirt, and free from regrets.
See it on a shirt!

I aren't stupid... I are a dirt biker!
See it on a shirt!

Two wheels, one engine, no limits.
See it on a shirt!

My dirt bike kid can whip your honor student.
See it on a shirt!

Sometimes the best communication happens when you're on separate bikes.

Dirt bike maintenance is as much art as it is science.

Do not ignore fear – outride it.
See it on a shirt!

Never ride faster than your guardian angel can fly.

I ride way too hard to worry about cholesterol.
See it on a shirt!

If you ride like there's no tomorrow, there won't be.

Everyone crashes. Some get back on. Some don't. Some can't.

DIRT BIKE & MOTOCROSS JOKES

If Dirt Bikes Were Built By Microsoft (or ridden by Bill Gates)

1. For no reason whatsoever your bike would crash twice a day.
2. Every time you wanted to ride a different track or a new trail, you’d have to buy a new bike.
3. Occasionally your bike would die for no reason, and you would accept this, restart and ride on.
4. Occasionally, something as simple as a left turn, would cause your bike to shut down and refuse to start, in which case you have to reinstall the entire engine.
5. Macintosh would make a dirt bike that was powered by the sun, reliable, five times as fast, and twice as easy to ride, but it would only run on five percent of the tracks and trails.
6. You wouldn’t be able to race more than one bike on the same track unless you bought "BikeXP", "BikeNT", or “Bike 7”.
7. The bike would say "Are you sure?" before applying the brakes.
8. For no reason whatsoever, your bike would sometimes refuse to run until you grabbed the plug wire, stuck your finger in the exhaust, and used the kick start, all at the same time.
9. You would be required to wear riding gear manufactured by the same company who built your dirt bike. Deleting this option would cause the bike's performance to drop by 50% or more.
10. Every time a manufacturer introduced a new model, buyers would have to learn to ride all over again because none of the controls would operate in the same manner as the old bike.
11. You'd press the "Start" button to shut off the engine.

The Mechanic and the Heart Surgeon

A dirt bike mechanic was taking a cylinder off a bike, when he was introduced to a world-famous heart surgeon. The mechanic said, "Hey Doc can I ask you a question?"

The famous surgeon said “Sure!” The mechanic, wiping his hands on a rag, asked, "So Doc… I open this engine up, take valves out, fix 'em, put in new parts, and when I’m done it’ll work just like a new one. So how come you get so much more money than me, when you and I are doing basically the same work?"

The surgeon looked the mechanic in the eye, smiled, and said, "Try doing it with the engine running!

Good News, Bad News

There's the sad story of the poor dirt bike rider who was in a terrible racing accident. When he came out from under the anesthetic, the doctor was leaning over him anxiously. "Son," he said, "I've got some good news and some bad news. "The bad news is that you were in a very serious accident, and I'm afraid we had to amputate both your feet just above the ankle." "Oh no," gasped the patient. "What's the good news?" The doctor smiled and said "The fellow in the next bed over will give you a good price for your boots."

Brains

A man walks into a seedy back alley butcher shop to buy some human brain and asks "How much?" He’s told $10 a kilo for mini-bike riders… $50 a kilo fro trail riders… and $500 a kilo for motocross racers.” "Why so much for the motocrossers?" he asks. And the butcher replies "Do you know how many of them we need to get a kilo?"

Swap

Did you hear about the guy who got a motorcycle for his wife? Pretty good swap don't you think?

Fairy Tale

A guy at the motocross track tells you that after winning his latest race on his Suzuki dirt bike, Santa Claus came up to congratulate him, and the Easter Bunny presented him with $1000 in prize money. How do you know he's lying?
Answer: No one wins a race on a Suzuki dirt bike (or fill in your least favorite dirt bike).

First Aid?

A guy was tearing down the trail on his dirt bike but the zipper broke on his jacket, so it was letting an annoying draft in. Sitting on his dirt bike, wondering what to do, he finally decided to put the jacket on backwards, so the broken zipper was at the back. He continued to ride his dirt bike at incredible speeds, but lost control. A nearby farmer heard the crash in the bush, assessed the situation, then called 911 on his cell phone! “I found a dirt bike rider on the trail, next to the bike he crashed!” he told the operator. The emergency operator asked the farmer “Is he showing any signs of life?" "Well," the farmer explained, "he WAS... until I turned his head around the right way!"

Miscellaneous

Q. Why did the chicken cross the motocross track?
A. To get to the roost!

Knock Knock
Who's there?
Whoopdee
Whoopdee Who?
No, Whoopdeedoo!

Why did the dirt bike cross the road?
Answer: Because they've stopped us from riding everywhere else!!!

FUNNY DIRT BIKE & MOTOCROSS PICTURES

Will post 'em as soon as I find 'em!

You can also find more dirt bike and motocross funny sayings, quotes, and jokes put on shirts, posters, mugs and stickers by CLICKING HERE.

Carburetor Rebuilding

2008-10-17T13:13:00.003-05:00

Rebuild the carb? It seems like a very common bit of advice to dirt bike performance problems is rebuilding the carburetor. I think it's in second place, right after "check and/or replace the sparkplug".

The reason a carb rebuild is recommended so often, is because it helps so often. Have fuel pouring out of the carburetor? Rebuild the carb. Engine bogs when you crack the throttle? Rebuild the carb. And so on.

The good news is a carb rebuild is one of those things that seems complicated but is, in fact, simple to do.

First, try and find yourself a clean area to work in or on. There are some small parts, and if you drop them, you'll want to be able to find them easily. Also, you're working with leftover bits of gas and good amounts of degreaser -- so the dining room table is probably not a good idea.

If you can, get hold of a shop manual for your specific dirt bike. That way you'll have a detailed description and diagrams for disassembling and reassembling your carb, plus any settings. If you can't get a manual, go online to someplace you can order parts and print out the exploded view of the carburetor many of these sites have. Also, I find my digital camera valuable for taking pictures of things BEFORE I take them apart. Later, if I can't remember which way something goes, I check one of the before photos.

For the most part, all carbs are pretty much the same and rebuilding the carb on any dirt bike is pretty much the same. If you're into some real vintage dirt bikes I may have a missing or extra step or two here -- but you'll probably figure it out.

So let's get started. First, shut off the fuel from the tank. You wouldn't believe how often I forget that step and pour gasoline all over the floor. When the fuel is shut off, disconnect the fuel line from the carb -- keep a rag handy, because you'll get a little residual fuel coming out of the hose.

Now take the carb off your dirt bike. Usually this involves disconnecting a rubber or plastic sleeve that runs from the air filter to the carb. Some carburetors have a small foam air filter fastened right to them -- common on pit bikes. If you can take it off before removing the carburetor... it'll just make everything easier to handle. Then, if you have the clearance, remove the top of the carb (where the throttle cable goes in) pll the slide out, and leave the slide hanging on the cable. If you're not going to remove and clean the slide and your shop is dusty, slip a plastic bag over it. Then remove the carb from your dirt bike's engine. If you're tight on room above the carburetor, remove it from the block first, THEN remove the top as you move the carb off to the side and down.

The bottom of your dirt bike's carburetor -- the bowl -- is full of fuel. Open the drain screw at the bottom and drain the fuel. By the way, if you're a smoker, you may have already discovered it's a bad habit to indulge in while doing this.

Moving right along... remove the screws that are holding the float bowl on, then remove the float (being careful not to bend anything), and the float needle.

Then remove the idle adjust screw BUT FIRST, turn it all the way in and count the number of turns it takes 'til it stops. Write this down and when you reassemble the carb, turn the screw all the way in and then back it out the same number of turns. That'll give you a good starting point for adjusting the idle later. Do this with any other adjusting mechanisms or screws your dirt bike's carburetor may have.

Remove the choke assembly. It's not necessary to remove the butterfly valve/flap, but on some bikes it pops right out. Choke assemblies are one of those things I always take pictures of before disassembling because I'm lousy at remembering how they go back together.

Finally, remove the jets. Those things that were hidden by the bowl, sticking out from the main body of the carb, with slots in them for your screwdriver.

At this point you have a couple of choices. Some people like to spray the carb with an aerosol carb cleaner (can be very messy), some like to dunk it in solvent and scrub with a small brush (gets a little messy, and takes some work), or some like to soak it overnight in commercial carb cleaner (easy, not too messy, a little more expensive). For me, the extra cost of the carb cleaner is worth the convenience and the shiny, brand new look of the clean carb.

All the loose parts need to be cleaned as well. Do them the same way you choose for the carburetor body. Don't forget the carb slide that you left hanging on the end of the throttle cable.

Don't poke or scape with any metal objects -- especially any holes in the carb body or jets.

When everything is clean, blow it all dry with compressed air if you can -- otherwise, dry it as best you can and give it a couple more hours to let things evaporate.

Reassemble everything in the reverse order you took it apart. If rubber gaskets look worn or torn, replace them.

If you have the specs, or if you were having fuel delivery problems, you can check the float level. Personally, I never worry about the float level unless I'm installing new ones, or I've dropped or banged them around.

Your dirt bike carb is now clean and rebuilt. Once you've done one, you'll wonder why you didn't try it sooner.

It's up to you, but I like to take a little time to clean the air filter and housing before putting the carburetor back on the bike -- I hate the thought of dust and grime getting into that shiny carb.

2008-08-18T14:57:00.006-05:00

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What info do YOU want?

There are probably as many dirt bike opinions out there as there are dirt bikes. Those opinions would include what kind of dirt bike and motocross information this site should have.

It's getting tougher for me to find time to research, organize and post information, so if you have anything specific you're looking for, I'll try and focus on that first.

In other words, I'm asking all you dirt bike and motocross riders, beginner to expert, what kind of off-road riding information and tips are you looking for? I'll cover whatever I can, from motocross tips and techniques to dirt bike maintenance. The only thing I'll really avoid is anything that's very specific to one model of dirt bike.

Post your request as a comment, and I'll do what I can, when I can.

2008-05-29T11:07:00.001-05:00

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Parts Diagrams
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One of the most important tools you can own, if you're going to do your own dirt bike maintenance and repairs, is a manual. A good shop manual gives you step-by-step instructions for just about anything you'll ever have to do on your dirt bike – whether you're a weekend trail rider or a serious motocross competitor.

One of the things I like most about my manuals is the exploded parts diagrams. These are invaluable when disassembling and reassembling parts.

But sometimes you can't get access to a manual for your dirt bike, or you're doing a repair on a friend's dirt bike. In that case, you can still get hold of a parts diagram. One of my favorite sites to get these is Mr Cycles .

They have great diagrams for most dirt bikes, including Honda, Suzuki, Yamaha,and Kawasaki.

2008-05-21T10:17:00.018-05:00

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Dirt Bike and Motocross Videos

I've been playing around with some video editting software, so I thought I'd embed anything I put together. It'll mostly be compilations of dirt bike stunts and motocross crashes, and only added to when I have the time to mess around with it.

Nothing to learn from... just something to watch.

If the below works, it should give you random dirt bike and motocross videos from YouTube (not mine).

Watch the latest videos on YouTube.com

Take care, and ride hard.

2008-05-14T13:15:00.008-05:00

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Dirt Bike and Motocross Games

I've yet to run into a Motocross game that even comes close to sitting on a dirt bike and riding, but dirt bike games are a way better way to spend time than glued in front of TV reruns. And, to be honest, a motocross game is going to be one of the few times I'll ever be able to pull off some those tricks.

As we come across dirt bike or motocross games, we'll post links to them here. And PC or console games will have links to reviews.

We've also included a few online dirt bike games to give you something to do at work.
If you know about any great dirt bike games you'd like everyone else to know about, or lousy ones you'd like to warn people about, post a comment.

You're also welcome to comment on any of the motocross games listed here.

If you notice any faulty links, let us know.

Kawasaki Fantasy Motocross -- PC
Read the review here

Motocross Mania – Play Station
Read the review here

Motocross Madness 2 – PC
Read the review here

Disney Sports Motocross – Game Boy Advance
Read the review here

MTX Mototrax – Play Station 2
Read the review here

Championship Motocross – Play Station
Read the review here

Freestyle Motocross – Mobile
Read the review here

Motocross The Force – PC
Read the review here

MX2002 – Play Station 2
Read the review here

Motorama 1 – PC
Read the review here

MX Superfly – Game Cube
Read the review here

Line Rider with Dirt Bike – Online
Play it online now

Adrenaline – Online
Play it online now

Dirt Bike – Online
Play it online now

Stunt Bike Draw – Online
Play it online now

Bike Mania 2 – Online
Play it online now

2008-05-09T16:18:00.003-05:00

Fouled Spark Plugs

How do you deal with a fouled spark plug in a dirt bike? The favorite answer is “buy a 4-stroke!” But that's not always an option – either because you love your 2-stroke and wouldn't trade it for anything, or you hate it and can't afford to replace it with anything.

The best way to deal with dirt bike spark plugs that are fouling is to keep them from getting fouled in the first place. So, before you do anything else, make sure your jetting is correct. The better the jetting, the less likely, or at least less often, you'll foul your spark plug.

Another preventative measure is to replace the spark plug in your dirt bike with a new one on a regular basis. How often? That depends on your riding schedule and habits. Use your past fouling history as a guide. If you typically end up with a fouled plug every couple of months, change the spark plug every month or six weeks.

What if you're out on the trail, or miles away from any handy spark plug provider, when your dirt bike stalls and won't start again? The easiest thing is to pull out the plug wrench and put in that spare spark plug you brought with you. You DID bring a wrench and spare plug, right?

Don't panic. If the only spark plug you have is the fouled one you just pulled out of your dirt bike, you still have options.

If you have a little kit you take with you riding, make sure it includes some fine emery cloth or a fine-grit sandpaper. If you don't have a kit, shove a piece in your pocket before you leave, or duct tape it to part of your bike. Use the sandpaper or emery cloth to clean the deposits off the business end of the spark plug. If possible, rinse the plug with a little bit of gasoline when you're done.

I've heard (one of those friend of a friend of a friend stories) that you can also grind a handful of sand in and around the plug to clean it. Sounds good in theory, but I haven't had the courage to give it a try. If you do attempt it, you'll definitely need to rinse it off with gas when done.

There's a good chance that you'll inadvertently adjust the gap when you clean your spark plug. Now, if you didn't pack a spare plug, you probably didn't bring along a gauge to set the gap with either. In that case, a credit card will usually work as a gauge – well enough to get you home, anyway.

2008-05-02T16:09:00.013-05:00

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Dirt Bike Paper Model
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We all spend a lot of time surfing the Internet for motocross and dirt bike information, and sometimes that kind of looking can turn up some interesting things.

For example, I found this great file with a paper model of a dirt bike. You just print the file, cut out the pieces and assemble. I imagine a decent graphics program would let you alter the colors.

Anyway, if you can never get enough of all things dirt bike, or you're looking for something to do until the next motocross event comes to town, give this a try.

Once you click on the link, look for the "Click Here To Download" on the left hand side, kind of near the top. It may take a few seconds to come up on some computers, but hey, it's a free service!

Download Parts01 now!

Download Parts02 now!

Download Parts03 now!

Download Parts04 now!

Download Assembly01 now!

Download Assembly02 now!

Download Assembly03 now!

Download Assembly04 now!
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2008-04-10T14:50:00.002-05:00

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Riding In Sand
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Riding your dirt bike in sand can be the most difficult riding you'll do. To do it successfully requires a combination of strength and technique. The good new is the more time you spend on your bike, the more strength and technique you'll develop. So ride lots and ride often!

The most important thing you'll need to learn for riding a dirt bike in sand is to stand up. The surface and density of sand often changes, so even though it looks smooth, there can be a lot of hidden bumps and dips. Also, if you're in an area that sees a lot of dirt bikes, the sand will develop a lot more bumps than a hard-packed mud track.

Standing up allows you to absorb more of the bumps and go with the flow. If you typically don't ride standing up, start practicing whenever you can – you want to be strong enough and confident enough to be relaxed and in control when you hit that sand. Nervous, stiff and jerky means you'll end up IN the sand instead of riding across it.

When riding in sand, your dirt bike will want to wander a little bit. Stay loose, let it wander, and carefully correct as needed. If you try and fight the bike you'll just tire out that much quicker.

Just because sand is a tougher than usual terrain, don't fall into the trap of looking at the ground right in front of your bike. Keep your eyes forward – look at where you want to go... not where you are.

One of the biggest problems with sand is the way it sucks at your front tire – especially if you ease off the throttle. It's a good idea to shift your weight back a little farther than usual and apply a little more throttle than usual. You want to keep your tires on top of the sand, not plowing through it.

To take a turn, you'll want even a little more throttle, and lean a little further back. If your front tire digs in during a turn, it'll probably twist completely over, act as a brake, and send you over the handlebars. Since you're going to increase the throttle during the turn, it pays to enter the turn slower than you normally would. If you go into the turn too fast, you'll have to back off the throttle and recover, losing more time and control than if you had started slower and eased up your speed. In other words, you often have to go slower to go faster. If you do need to do some braking in a sand turn, only use the rear brake.

As you accelerate through and out of the turn, you can be a little more aggressive on the throttle since the sand is stealing a lot of your momentum, Don't let your back wheel spin too much though or you'll just dig in deeper and go slower.

Those are the basics – the rest is up to you. The more you practice, the better you'll get.

2008-04-09T15:40:00.005-05:00

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Bearing Service and Maintenance
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When it comes to bearings, like most dirt bike maintenance, the goal is to prevent time-wasting breakdowns on the trails, embarassing breakdowns on the motocross track, and expensive breakdowns requiring the complete replacement of parts that COULD have lasted for years.

Hey... a dirt bike gets ridden in THE DIRT. Some of that grit and moisture is going to work it's way into your bearings. So here's a crash course in checking and servicing the bearings on your dirt bike.

Wheel Bearings

The fastest way to check wheel bearings is to have your dirt bike upright, resting on both wheels, while trying to give the wheel in question a side-to-side pushing and pulling. If there's any significant play in the bearing, you'll be able to feel it.

To service or replace the bearings, you'll have to start by removing the wheel from the dirt bike. Then place the wheel on something that will hold it in place, while leaving room under and around the hub. A sturdy plastic pail works, or one of those plastic milk crates, or a wheel changing stand if you're one of those guys with the kind of shop I envy.

Before I forget, keep a small container handy to put all the small parts in as you work.

Then take your universal tool of a thousand uses – otherwise known as a screwdriver – and gently remove the rubber dust seal from the hub (some bikes won't have this seal). If you're careful, and the seals are in good shape, you can re-use them... but price out new ones at your local shop and you'll probably find they're cheap enough that you'll decide to replace them.

With the first seal removed carefully turn the wheel over (the bearing PROBABLY won't fall out, but I've quickly flipped a wheel over and had a bearing fly out and hide in a dark, hard to reach corner of my garage) and remove the seal from the other side.

Take a close look and make sure the bearing isn't held in place by a clip. If there is, remove it.

You should now be able to get your universal tool of a thousand uses (or a pin punch or drift) down the center of the hub to the inner race of the bottom bearing. With a hammer, tap your tool of choice against the edge of the bearing so that it starts to slide out of the hub. If you can't get up against the edge of the bearing race (carefully) turn the wheel over and give the opposite bearing a sharp rap. That often pushes the spacer tube against the bearing you're trying to remove. Now you can slide the loose spacer to expose the edge of the bearing race. Tap all around the bearing as you go to help it slide out straight.

When the first bearing is out, remove the spacer tube. Getting the remaining bearing out should be a lot easier.

Wipe the hub down and make sure it's clean – 1, so you can inspect it properly and 2, so you get rid of any grit trapped in the area.

If your bearings aren't sealed and you're re-using them, clean them out with solvent. You want to flush out any existing grease and the grit that may be in it. You can quickly dry out the bearings with compressed air but, if you do so, hold the bearing in place. If you let it spin you risk premature wear and damage because they're racing around without any lubricant.

To repack (re-grease) the bearing, place a dollop of bearing grease in your hand and push the bearing into and across it so that the grease is forced into the bearing. Don't stop until you see grease forced out of the top of the bearing.

When you can, use sealed bearings. They're a lot easier to maintain, and they last longer.

To install the wheel bearing, grab something just a little bit smaller than the diameter of the bearing – a socket is the most common thing that's used. Place the bearing on the hub, place the socket on top, and tap the bearing in. You'll feel and hear when the bearing is seated. Flip the wheel over (carefully), install the spacer tube, and tap the second bearing in the same way you did the first.

Install the dust seals by tapping them in place using a socket.

Headstem Bearings

The headstem bearings on your dirt bike aren't much different than wheel bearings when it comes to removal and service.

Take the fork legs out of the triple clamps and remove the large flat nut on the top triple clamp. The triple clamp should lift off allowing you to slide the bottom triple clamp and shaft out of the headstem.

You can now tap the outer races out of the headstem in the same manner as you would tap out wheel bearings.

The bottom bearing can be tricky to remove from the steering shaft because the shaft usually has to be pressed out of the bottom triple clamp. It IS possible to take the bearing off the shaft using a cold chisel, but you run the risk of damaging the surface of the shaft. If you don't have a press, and can't borrow one, get a price from your local bike shop or a friendly independent mechanic for fitting the bearing. (if anyone has any better suggestions, please post them as a comment or email me)

Once the new bottom bearing is fitted install the new outer races to the headstem tube and then insert the bottom triple clamp and shaft up into the headstem. Install the top bearing over the shaft and replace the top triple clamp. Lightly install the top nut, put the fork legs back in, and tighten only the bottom clamps. With the bottom clamps tight, snug up the top nut until the steering moves freely. Finally, tighten up the top clamps.

Swingarm Bearings

To service or replace swingarm bearings on your dirt bike, you'll start by removing the seat and rear subframe, and then swing the rear brake caliper out of the way.

You know how you loosen all the nuts on a car wheel BEFORE lifting it off the ground? The idea is to give you more leverage. For the same reason, loosen (don't remove) all the bolts in the swingarm linkages while everything is still attached.

Then remove the nut on the end of the main pivot shaft –where the swingarm is attached to the dirt bike -- and tap the shaft out of the frame.

Remove the bolt that mounts the bottom of the rear shock to the swingarm and disconnect it.
Slide the swingarm out of the pivot point.

Now, with the swingarm on your bench, garage floor, or antique dining room table, you can disassemble each bearing one at a time to keep the parts from getting mixed up, or have a separate container for each bearing (label each one).

If the bearings have caps, carefully pry them out with a screwdriver. Then push out the inner bushing and expose the bearing rollers.

Clean the bearings carefully, using the same technique as wheel bearings, and inspect them for wear.

On one of my bikes, the roller bearings are “loose” and can fall out and disappear. When I'm reassembling the bearings, I smear grease in the outer race and “stick” the rollers in place. Everything stays in place until I get the inner bushing in place.

It's always a good idea to inspect the dust seals and replace them as needed.

2008-03-13T11:31:00.003-05:00

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Wiring a Home Shop
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I've seen dirt bikes and motocross gear stored and maintained in everything from dining rooms to basic garages to full-blown mechanical shops. If you're in the process of putting together a shed or garage where'll you'll be doing a lot of work, the following link has some good advice. It won't make you a better dirt bike rider or a motocross champ, but it'll make the time between rides a little better.

Wiring a Home Shop

2008-01-11T21:06:00.000-06:00

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Dirt Bike Suspension – Sag and Spring Rates
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The factory can’t build dirt bikes custom fitted for every rider. A light rider tearing up the motocross track will want a bike that performs differently than for a larger rider playing on his dirt bike in the gravel pits. So dirt bikes are designed for the average rider, and for average riding.

Fortunately, checking your sag and spring rates is fairly easy, so you can check if you have what you need.

This is a lot easier if you have a buddy to help hold your dirt bike or a very understanding girlfriend or wife (or boyfriend or husband!).

If you set your clickers to a soft setting, you’ll get more accurate results.

Free sag or static sag is how much your dirt bike suspension compresses under its own weight. To find measure the sag, start by placing your dirt bike on a stand (or a crate, or wood blocks, etc) with the wheels off the ground. Measure the distance from the rear axle bolt to a convenient spot on your bike, straight up from the axle. You’re going to use this reference point again, so make sure you remember it, or mark it with a piece of tape or something. Record the measurement (A).

Now take your dirt bike off the stand. While that helpful friend is holding it upright, re-measure the distance from the axle bolt to the reference point. Record the measurement (B).

Subtract B from A, and that gives you the free sag. Ideally, you’re looking for about 8 to 10 millimeters for smaller bikes, and 25 to 30 millimeters for anything 125cc’s or larger. If you have access to a manual, check it for more accurate ranges.

Race sag, or laden sag, is how much your dirt bike sags while you’re on it – sometimes called rear ride height as well. To measure race sag, sit on your bike in a normal riding position and have someone re-measure the distance from the axle bolt to your reference point. Record the measurement (C).

Subtract C from A, to get your race sag. On average, smaller bikes will give you about 65 to 85 millimeters of race sag, and 95 to 105 millimeters for 125cc’s and bigger.

Too little free sag means the spring is too soft, and too much equals a spring that's too stiff. This may be the opposite of what you’ve been told or heard, but I’ve researched it a lot to try and get it right. (If you have definitive proof that I have it wrong, please email me – I’m more interested in GETTING it right than in BEING right).

To adjust the race sag you’ll need to adjust the spring preload. First, using a hammer and punch, release the top collar on the shock spring. Then gently tap the lower collar to compress the spring (more preload), or to release the spring (less preload). Lock the setting in place by re-tightening the top collar.

2008-01-11T21:00:00.000-06:00

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Dirt Bike Suspension -- Rear Shock
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Adjusting the rear shock on your dirt bike is just as easy as the front shocks. Easy enough that you may start adjusting them before every ride to match your latest terrain or newest motocross track.

Once again, remember to record your initial settings so you can revert back to them if your adjustments get all messed up. And, once again, make one small change at a time.

Start with the high-speed compression adjuster. This affects how quickly or how slowly the shock works during compression. Using an open ended wrench, turn the nut clockwise or anti-clockwise to make changes. Softening the high-speed compression can help make the bike ride more smoothly over rough terrain.

The low-speed compression adjuster can be turned clockwise to make the overall feel of the shock firmer. Or, turn it counterclockwise for a softer feel. Your preferred settings will depend on what style of riding you have. Softer settings are good for those relaxed, family dirt bike rides… a medium setting for trails… and hardened up if you’re hitting doubles and triples at the motocross track. Just like your front forks – a full hard setting will wreck your shock, so keep it a few clicks short of all the way down.

Now look for the rebound adjuster at the bottom of the shock, under the swingarm. This works pretty much like the rebound clickers on the front forks – controlling the speed at which the shock returns to its extended position after being compressed.

Turning the rebound adjuster clockwise will keep the rear wheel in contact with the ground over smoother terrain with a less harsh ride. Counterclockwise adjustments will keep the rear wheel on the ground when riding at speed over sharp, rough terrain.

2008-01-11T20:55:00.000-06:00

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Dirt Bike Suspension -- Front Forks
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Adjusting the suspension on today’s dirt bikes isn’t difficult. This gives you a chance to adjust things to suit your riding style – from Sunday morning ditch-banging, to grueling trails, to motocross racing.

You have two suspension areas to work with – the front and the rear. Since it’s a VERY good idea to adjust only one area at a time, one small setting at a time, let’s start at the front of your dirt bike.

On the top of the front forks (or sometimes the bottom – check your manual) you’ll see a screw or clicker. There’s a good chance that it’ll be labeled S and H, for soft and hard.

BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING ELSE, RECORD THE CURRENT SETTINGS. If you completely screw things up you can just reset everything to your starting point.

The screw direction is similar to any other screw or bolt – righty tighty, lefty loosey. If you turn the screw clockwise, or towards the 'H', the action of the fork will harden. The opposite is also true – turn the screw counterclockwise and the action will soften.

Since you may not feel the difference a small adjustment makes, try a couple of sample large ones. Take a ride with both clickers dialed all the way in, and then another with them set all the way out. NOTE: full hard isn’t good for the lifespan of your suspension, so make sure you back it off after your test run.

On the bottom of the forks, you should see the rebound adjuster. If you read the terminology article, you’ll know this controls how quickly the suspension “bounces back” to its extended position after being compressed. A harder (clockwise) setting slows down the rebound – good for bigger, rounded obstacles and rolling terrain. A softer (counterclockwise) setting increases rebound speed for rougher riding.

2008-01-11T20:43:00.000-06:00

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Dirt Bike Suspension -- Basic Tips
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As always, a good shop manual is your best source of information when working on your dirt bike, and most have detailed information on the suspension. If you misplaced or lost the manual, here are a few basics you should take care of before starting any tuning.

Bleed your forks regularly. Most of the time this is done with a small bleed screw in the top cap. Let out excess air after every ride or race. Make sure you do this without any weight on the front end – and don’t forget to tighten the screw when you’re done.

The oil in your forks and shock gets contaminated over time and will affect your dirt bike suspension's performance… so change it regularly.

Clean components regularly, with LOW pressure water. Pressure washing any part of your dirt bike can force grit and water in – this can be especially harmful when it involves your suspension.

Inspect every moving part for wear, and make sure all the fasteners and connections (nuts, bolts, welds, duct tape, etc) are tight and solid.

Aren’t sure exactly how much your suspension travels. To find out before you do any tuning (and to check afterwards) put a thin cable tie around your fork leg or shock shaft. When the suspension travels it will move the tie so you can see precisely how far the suspension is compressing.

Keep the threads on the body of the shock lubricated so the spring adjuster nut and locking ring can move freely when it comes time to make adjustments.

Look for pitting and scratches on fork and shock shafts. Light cuts or scratches on your fork legs can be smoothed out with extremely fine grade wet sandpaper (but you may want to let a pro take care of that).

Dirt and grease can accumulate under the rebound rubber/bottoming cone on the shock absorber shaft. Clean under it.

Make only one change at a time, to one component at a time, and make them very small changes.

Record the settings you have BEFORE you start any adjusting. That way, if things get really messed up, you can always go back to square one.

2008-01-11T20:27:00.000-06:00

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Dirt Bike Suspension -- Terminology
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A good dirt bike can’t turn a bad rider into a motocross professional, but keeping your dirt bike at its best will keep you at your best. Your dirt bike’s suspension plays a big role in how the bike performs and responds.

Fortunately, today’s suspension allows for a lot of adjustment and tuning and, even better, you can learn to do it yourself. The most important thing is small steps – do everything just a little bit at a time.

Before you get started, it helps to be familiar with the terminology. Following are some common terms and quick explanations. If I’ve missed some important ones, post a comment and I’ll add it.

Compression Dampening

Compression dampening controls how the suspension – you guessed it -- compresses. An adjustable valve allows a specific amount of oil through the suspension and controls the speed at which it travels through its stroke.

High speed Compression Dampening

High speed compression dampening allows you to adjust the suspension rate for times when the suspension is moving at high speed. For example, hitting a large, flat, near vertical surface will cause the forks or rear shock to compress at a higher speed. It’s all about how fast the suspension is moving – not your dirt bike.

Low speed Compression Dampening

Low speed compression dampening adjusts the flow of oil through the base valve and comes into play when attacking obstacles that are more rounded – times when the suspension is moving though its travel at a slower speeds. Again, it’s about how fast the suspension is moving – not your dirt bike.

Rebound Dampening

After your suspension is compressed, it has to return to its starting point. This is called rebound, and rebound dampening controls what that speed will be. If your rebound dampening is set too fast your dirt bike may kick up over braking bumps or when accelerating out of corners. If it's set too slow the suspension won’t return far enough to absorb the next bump – and a series of bumps can lead to the suspension bottoming out.

Spring Rates

Spring rates are numbers used to indicate the stiffness of the fork springs or shock spring.

Wheelbase

Wheelbase is the distance between the front wheel and back wheel – measured from where each wheel touches the ground. Bringing your rear wheel forward in the swingarm will decrease your bikes wheelbase and will make the bike quicker to turn in corners. Increasing your wheelbase makes the bike more stable at high speeds. Bear in mind, you’d have to be a fairly aggressive or experienced dirt bike rider or motocross racer to notice any real difference. (You WOULD notice the difference between a 50cc pit bike and 500cc race machine though)

Fork Leg Height

In simple terms, fork leg height changes how far your handlebars are from the ground. It’s adjusted by moving your fork legs either up or down in the triple clamp. The triple clamp is that part connecting your forks to the handlebars and the dirt bike frame. Adjusting the fork leg height also affects your wheelbase. If the fork legs are high in the triple clamps, the wheelbase is effectively shortened with the bike turning in faster. Dropping the fork legs down makes your dirt bike more stable at higher speeds.

Fork Leg Spike

Fork leg spike is used to describe a rough, uneven feeling as the forks or rear shock travel. The cause is usually a mismatch in front and rear suspension tuning. As one end tries to move at a different rate than the other it feels like the dirt bike is fighting itself (and you).

Fork Leg Stiction

Other than just sounding neat, stiction is a word used to describe the friction of the suspension components moving against each other. The goal, through special coatings and seals, is to reduce stiction, allowing the components to move freely.

Bottoming

Bottoming is when the suspension reaches the end of its travel. The ideal situation occurs when you almost, or very lightly bottom out – that means you’re using all of the suspension's travel and reducing the impact as much as possible.

Preload

Preload refers to adjusting the length of the shock to match your body weight. The springs that you see on them control your preload.

Free Sag or Static Sag

Free sag or static sag is how much your dirt bike suspension compresses under its own weight.

Race Sag or Laden Sag or Rear Ride Height

Race sag, or laden sag, is how much your dirt bike sags while you’re on it – sometimes called rear ride height as well.

2007-11-28T20:29:00.000-06:00

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Wheels - Truing
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Truing the wheel on a dirt bike sounds tough, but you CAN true your own wheel. The biggest trick is to be patient, and work in small steps.

If you have a wheel stand, mount the wheel in it. If, like most of us, you don’t have a stand, mount it back on the dirt bike. If it’s a rear tire, leave the chain off so the wheel can spin freely.

If you have a dial micrometer, you can use it to measure roundness and side play (i.e., is the wheel warped?). If you don’t have a micrometer, join the other 99% of us. You can easily use a piece of wire as a pointer. You’re best bet is to drill a small hole in a chunk of wood, stick in one end of the wire, then bend the wire until it almost touches the rim.

Now slowly spin the wheel. If you’re lucky, the rim won’t move up or down. If it does, locate the spoke at the highest point of the wheel. Tighten it slightly. Then tighten four or five spokes on each side of that first spoke. Tighten each one a little less as you move away from the highest spoke. If you tighten the highest spoke half a turn, then tighten the next spoke three eighths of a turn, the next a quarter turn, the next one eighth of a turn. Remember, do this on BOTH sides of the highest spoke. Spin the wheel again, find the highest spoke, and repeat. Once you’re close to “up and down true” and before the spokes are too tight, check the side play.

To check the side play of the wheel, set your pointer close to the side of the rim. Spin the wheel slowly and locate the point that moves closest to the pointer. Find the closest spoke that goes to the opposite side of the hub and tighten it slightly. Now tighten every OTHER spoke on either side of that spoke, decreasing the amount you tighten as you move away from the first spoke. Double and triple check that the spokes you are tightening are going to the opposite side of the hub. This will pull the rim, at that point, in the direction of the hub. Keep repeating the spin, locate, and tighten cycle until the wheel no longer moves to the side. And, just to complicate it a little, make sure the wheel is centered in relation to the forks or swing arm.

Keep alternating between checking for side to side, and up and down, until the wheel runs true.

If you feel the spokes are getting too tight and the wheel isn’t true, you can also make adjustments by loosening some spokes while tightening others. Loosening a spoke will move that part of the rim further from the hub. Remember to loosen the 4 or 5 spokes to either side as well – same as when you’re tightening.

If everything seems to be going wrong and the wheel is getting more out of true, stop right away. Review what you’re doing. Are you doing it right? If necessary, loosen all the spokes back up and start over.

Make lots of little adjustments over and over, rather than trying to do it all at once.

Once the rim is running true and centered, you can start tightening up all the spokes about one-quarter to one-half turn at a time. After each batch of tightening, check the wheel again to make sure it’s still true. When the spokes are tight enough, you’re done!

2007-11-28T20:24:00.000-06:00

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Spokes - Replacing
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Replacing dirt bike spokes isn’t too difficult, and it’s definitely possible for you to replace them on your own.

Broken spokes generally fall under two categories: one or two broken spokes, or a lot of broken spokes. Four or more broken spokes should be dealt with QUICKLY, especially if they’re close together.

A slightly different category would be frequent spoke failure – not uncommon with an older bike. Chances are the spokes are so worn that they’ll continue to break a couple at a time, until you’ve replaced all of them – and at that point the new ones will have uneven wear due to the breakage and start breaking as well. If you have an older dirt bike with frequent spoke damage, consider replacing all of them at once.

If you break a spoke and can’t replace it right away, wire or tape it to another spoke so that it doesn’t damage anything else. Even better, if you have your tools with you, cut the broken spoke out but leave enough to unthread it from the nipple later. Keeping the short piece of spoke in the nipple until you’re ready to change it will prevent dirt from getting into the threads.

If you’re racing, you can wire spokes together where they cross to keep them from getting tangled up in things if one breaks.

If you only have one or two broken spokes, you can probably replace them without too much effort. (NOTE: Spokes usually come in different lengths, or different angles on the head, on the same wheel – make sure you’re getting the proper replacements) You’ll almost always have to pull the wheel off your dirt bike, and maybe the sprocket. Also, because the way spokes are positioned on the tire (the way they’re “laced”) you may have to remove up to 3 to get the broken one out.

If the nipples don’t turn easily, try penetrating oil for a few days. If that fails, you can try applying heat, CAREFULLY with one of those small pinpoint torches.

Now let’s assume you have to, or want to, replace ALL the spokes. (Also referred to as relacing or re-lacing the wheel)

First, price out a replacement wheel -- you may find a good deal on a new or used wheel that you can slap right onto your dirt bike and start riding. That’ll give you a lot of time to work on the broken wheel without losing any riding time. When you’re considering the cost, think about how long you intend to keep the dirt bike you’re repairing.

Second, price out how much it’ll cost to have your local dirt bike shop relace the wheel for you. They’ll do it faster, but that speed comes with a price.

If you still decide to relace your own wheel… way to go! Just about everything is doable on your own if you’re patient.

Here are a couple of problems you might run into as you get started.

The nipples might be rusted tight – especially if the bike is older or used for a lot of wet riding. Also, the spokes can stretch over time (which is why you have to check and tighten them regularly) and the stretch can lock the spoke and nipple threads together. However, if you’re replacing all the spokes, you’ll be replacing the nipples as well, so you can just cut the spokes out.

Everyone has a slightly different way to replace spokes. I’ll outline one way here and it should apply to just about every dirt bike wheel out there.

Remove the tire and inner tube. You’ll find instructions here.

If you can, take a picture or two of the wheel BEFORE you start removing spokes. It’ll help you out if you get confused when it’s time to put them back in.

With the tire off, you should be able to use a screwdriver (sometimes a hex key/wrench) to loosen the nipples from inside the rim. If not, use your spoke wrench in the usual way. I usually loosen all the nipples first without taking them all the way off.

Start taking out all the outside spokes. These are the ones with the head inside the hub, but the spoke itself is on the outside of the hub. Confusing? Just read that sentence over a couple of times until you get it. Take at least one of those spokes and label it as “outside” with some masking tape or something. Why? Because inside and outside spokes usually have different angles on the head and you’ll want to match an old one to the new ones.

Next take out the inside spokes EXCEPT for two on either side of the wheel. Leave two spokes on opposite sides of the hub, and on the other side, leave two spokes on opposite sides of the hub but perpendicular to the other two. When you look down at the wheel, you’ll see spokes at the 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock position. The point is to hold the hub loosely in place, and give you a starting point for the new spokes.

Take one of the new inside spokes (compare it with the outside one you labeled), and replace one of the four remaining spokes. Tighten the nipple just enough to keep everything together. Repeat for the remaining three spokes.

Install all of the inside spokes. Depending on the wheel and the order you put them in, you may have to disconnect a neighboring spoke to get another one in. As before, tighten the nipples just enough to keep the spokes in place.

Install all of the outside spokes. Tighten the nipples just enough to keep the spokes in place.

Now you want to give yourself an even starting point for truing the wheel – which means having all the nipples tightened the same amount, but not too tight. Most of the time, I can tighten the nipples right up until the thread on the spoke disappears. Start with one spoke, then tighten every third spoke until every spoke on the wheel is tightened to the same point. If using the spoke threads as a reference doesn’t work for the wheel you’re doing, unthread each nipple (one at a time) and rethread them the same amount each – for example, two turns.

You’re ready to true the wheel. Get the instructions here.

2007-11-28T20:20:00.000-06:00

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Spokes - Maintenance
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Have you checked your dirt bike spokes? Some lessons you just have to learn the hard way. I spent a whole season riding without checking the spokes on my dirt bike. As far as I knew everything was fine, until one of the last rides of the year when I found out 10 of the 36 spokes were broken. It was embarrassing, but I was lucky I didn’t wreck the wheel completely.

The best thing to do, obviously, is to check your spokes regularly. The quickest way is to tap them with something metallic and listen for that taut-sounding ping, or you can pluck them with your fingertips. A loose spoke will have a dull sound, while a tight spoke will have a higher pitch. Get in the habit of checking them regularly and you’ll quickly get a good idea as to what they should sound like. You can also head to your local dirt bike retailer and give their spokes a tap or flick to see what they sound like.

A common beginner’s mistake is to blame broken spokes on over-tightening. Then those beginner dirt bike mechanics start loosening spokes, which allows them to move (especially against the hub where they’ll wear) and flex more.

If you have loose spokes, tighten them right away. The easiest way is with a spoke wrench. You’ll be tightening by sound, unless you’re lucky enough to have a spoke torque wrench. Although you CAN over tighten a dirt bike spoke, it’s not likely you’ll do so. Unlike a bicycle, a dirt bike rim is fairly strong and knows what shape it wants to be in. I have used a small crescent wrench in a pinch to tighten spokes, but it makes a simple job tedious, and you risk rounding off the edges of the nipple. A better option, if you can’t get a spoke wrench, is an open end wrench of the correct size. NEVER use pliers on the nipples (unless it’s the only way to get your bike moving to escape the axe murderer who’s killing everyone else in the campsite).

To check if your wheel is running true, get it up on a stand to the wheel in question can spin freely. Wedge a piece of wire somehow so that you can bring one end very close to the rim. Spin the wheel and see if gets closer and/or farther from the wire. There should be very little movement.

If your dirt bike wheel needs to be trued, check here.

2007-10-31T10:04:00.000-05:00

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Dirt Bike T-Shirts
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If we could, we'd spend all our time riding the trails on our dirt bikes, or hanging out at the motocross track -- but we can't. We CAN however throw on a dirt bike or motocross t-shirt, sweatshirt, or hoodie and wish we were out riding.

Riders have different attitudes and outlooks on life, and an edgy tee may be just the way to let people know where you stand.

Check out this site for a great selection of themes, printed on quality material, at a great price.

More designs are added regularly, so even if you've dropped by before, take time for a quick second look.

The two samples below are two of the most popular picks. Click here to get a look at the whole selection. The plan is to add more on a regular basis, so keep checking back.

Click here to see the these designs on sweatshirts, hoodies, and tank tops.

2007-10-05T16:24:00.000-05:00

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Winter Storage
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Storing your dirt bike properly is a key practice to keeping running as well as possible for as long as possible. The following storage advice and tips apply to any long-term storage.

01 Choose a storage area. Indoors is best. If you can’t bring your dirt bike indoors, try to find someplace where you can avoid extreme temperature changes. An insulated garage is a good option, even if it’s not heated on a regular basis. By avoiding large temperature changes, you’ll reduce the amount of condensation on and in parts. I like to store mine in my garage, especially since I can heat it as needed and then do some catch-up maintenance.

My garage leads us to another consideration – find a place where the bike will be out of the way. My two-car garage serves as parking for two vehicles, a woodworking shop, and my dirt bike pit area – as you an imagine, it can be a little challenging getting everything in.

Find a corner where the dirt bike won’t get knocked over – preferably a dry, solid surface, as dirt or gravel floors can give off moisture. If you have no choice and have to store your bike in an extremely cold area, make sure it won’t get knocked over or bumped into as many parts can become brittle in the cold.

If you can, avoid sunlight – parts can fade, and UV can deteriorate rubber and plastic. If you can’t keep your dirt bike out of direct sunlight, find a soft cover to throw over it (which also protects it from dust). A cloth cover is best as it will ‘breath’ and reduce moisture build-up.

02 Gather up your supplies. You’ll want any cleaners you usually use to give your bike a thorough wash, as well as fuel stabilizer, crankcase oil, fogging sprays, protective sprays, etc.

03 Add the fuel stabilizer. The best time to do this is during your last ride of the season. This ensures that you have stabilized gas throughout the fuel system. If you’re not sure when that last ride will be, start adding stabilizer to your gas can near the end of the season – it won’t affect your engine. If you can’t run the bike for at least 5 minutes, add the stabilizer to the tank, close the fuel line valve, drain the carburetor by removing the drain plug, then open the fuel line valve. When you’ve run stabilized fuel through the carburetor you can put the drain plug back in. There’s no need to keep the carburetor drained during storage if you’ve used stabilizer. Turn the fuel valve to the off/closed position.

Stabilizing your dirt bike fuel for storage is a critical step; otherwise some components can evaporate leaving a sludge or varnish in your fuel system. If you’re storing your dirt bike in, or during, warm conditions, a stabilizer is even more important – as warmer temperatures mean more volatile fuel.

Also, fill the tank as full as possible. The less air there is sitting in the tank, the less condensation you’ll get.

04 Check the coolant. If your dirt bike is liquid-cooled, make sure your coolant is topped up and mixed properly – usually a 50/50 mix. You can drain and replace it now, or as part of spring routine… it’s up to you.

05 Change the crankcase oil. Why change the oil if you’re not going to be riding? Old oil contains contaminants and moisture that we don’t want sitting around in the crankcase all winter. If you’ve run your dirt bike to stabilize the fuel, then your oil is now nice and warm, and ready to be drained. After the oil change, and only if your engine is already warm, run it for another couple of minutes to circulate the new oil. Skip this step if your engine is cold and you can’t run it long enough to get it up to operating temperature – otherwise you’ll end up creating condensation in the engine.

06 Fogging oil. Some guys do. Some guys don’t. There are arguments for both sides, which we hope to cover at a later date. If you choose to fog, start by cleaning around the sparkplug – a shot of air from a compressor is ideal, blowing through a soda straw or small tubing works in a pinch. Pull the sparkplug and fog according to the instructions on the container.

Before you put it back in you might want to examine the sparkplug closely for any clues it can give you about how your engine is operating. When you’re done, reinstall the plug.

07 Remove the battery. Obviously, this only applies if your dirt bike has a battery. You MUST keep the battery someplace where it won’t freeze. If your battery isn’t maintenance-free, check the water level and add distilled water if needed. If the battery is dirty, clean it up with a baking soda and water solution to remove any acid residue, followed by soap and water to get rid of grime and grease. Personally, I don’t bother cleaning the terminals because I won’t be able to keep myself from cleaning them in the spring anyway.

I think we’ve all heard about not storing batteries on a concrete floor. It’s basically a myth. If the battery is clean, and the floor is dry and not terribly cold, it’ll be fine. That being said, I still store my batteries on a piece of wood… because it makes me feel better.

Keep the battery charged over the winter with an automatic charger, or occasional sessions with a trickle charger. Some owners will put the trickle charger on a timer so the battery gets a half hour or so a day, but I’m a little paranoid about having that kind of system sitting around untended. Make sure your battery storage area is well-ventilated, especially while charging – explosive gases can be generated during charging.

08 Wash your dirt bike. Some thoughts and advice on washing here.

09 Protective sprays/coatings. I don’t use them for two reasons. One, my storage area is relatively dry with very little humidity. Two, it’s a DIRT BIKE – I put way more wear and tear on it with a day of riding through muck and gravel than I will in 20 years of storage. But if you’re really picky you can find a number of spray-on and wipe-on products… just follow the instructions that come with them. Remember though – any of that stuff you put on is more stuff you’ll have to wash off in the spring.

10 Top up the tire pressure. An extra 5 pounds doesn’t hurt, as you’ll probably have some leakage over the winter. If your dirt bike won’t be stored on a center stand, keep an eye on the tires to make sure they’re not losing pressure over the winter.

11 Put the dirt bike in its storage area. If you have a center stand, use it. If your budget and storage area suit, you may have an overhead system with pulleys (lucky you!). For peace of mind, add a couple of strong anchoring hooks to your ceiling and fasten back-up chains to your dirt bike -- in case a component fails or someone inadvertently releases the lift.

12 It also doesn’t hurt to lock your dirt bike up -- either to the storage area itself or to something big and/or heavy. Remember, the thing’s on wheels and easy to move once a thief breaks into the storage area.

13 DON’T RUN THE ENGINE OVER THE WINTER. Not for short periods anyway. The engine needs to reach full operating temperature before being shut down; otherwise you’ll get a build-up of condensation.

2007-10-04T13:45:00.000-05:00

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Braking
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A lot of times, riding a dirt bike successfully isn’t about how fast you can go… it’s about how fast you can brake. Good dirt bike braking gives you more control when you need it (and hey, that means you can go faster between the times you need it). And in motocross, being able to brake later but faster means you can gain ground on less capable riders.

About 70% of your stopping power comes from your front brake – assuming you use it. A lot of dirt bike riders are nervous about the front wheel washing out or doing an endo if they lock it up. Why can’t the rear brake stop you as efficiently? When you start slowing down, your weight, and the dirt bike’s weight get transferred forward – giving you more weight on the front wheel and less on the back. Less weight translates to less traction. Quick stops require the front brake.

While most of the following tips apply to motocross situations, braking skills also give you a performance edge and added confidence on the trail.

Don’t brake too early. Slower speeds mean less ground covered. A second or two may not seem like much, but multiply that by the number of turns on the track and multiply it again by the number of laps – adds up don’t it?

Threshold brake. Once you’ve decided to use your brake, use it as fully as possible. Take it right to the point before it locks up and washes out. How do you determine that point? Practice, practice, and practice.

If you’re braking hard, you may want to pull the clutch in. You’ll lose some of the benefits of engine braking, but you’ll also avoid stalling.

When braking FOR a turn or obstacle, brake BEFORE the turn or obstacle. This will let you get most or all of your braking done while you're upright, which gives you better control and more traction.

Anticipate the conditions. Uphill grades require less braking to stop, downhill requires more. Soft sand, deep dirt, and muck are already trying to slow your dirt bike down, so less braking is needed. Loose material on top of a hard-packed surface can increase your braking distance and may require you to apply the brakes earlier.

Adjust your stance to maintain control. Get in the attack position. Grip the bike with your knees.

Adjust your levers. There should only be a small amount of play in the front brake lever.

On tight turns you can gain a lot of time (and have a lot of fun) with a brake slide. Instead of keeping the bike in a line parallel to your direction of braking, you want the rear wheel to lock up and slide to the side and forward. At the same time, your front brake is locked and acting as a pivot point. Once you’re pointed in the right direction, crack the throttle and go.

We already mentioned practicing. Here’s one thing you can do – especially if you’re a beginner on dirt bikes. Find a flat area with consistent ground cover. While riding slowly in first gear, gently apply the front brake until it starts to lock, increasing the throttle as needed to prevent stalling. Once you reach the locking point, release and repeat. This is a great experience and confidence builder.

2007-10-04T11:53:00.000-05:00

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Forearm Pump (Arm Pump)
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Most of us have dealt with it after a hard day of riding or racing – arm pump or forearm pump. Some dirt bike riders seem to get hit with it all the time, others almost never. We’ve looked all over for as many tips as we could find – here are a few that have worked for us and others. If you have any to add, make sure you let us know.

Stretching seems to be one of the best things you can do to avoid or reduce forearm pump. Most racers do some stretching before hitting the track but a lot of trail riders and ditch bangers just hop on and go. Here’s a good forearm stretch. With arms extended in front of you, and fingers straight, pull back on the fingers to flex the wrist joint backwards. Then push on the knuckles to flex the wrist forwards.

Once you’re on your bike, put both hands below the handlebars with your finger tips on the grips and press forwards.

If you’re riding a lot, take time to quickly stretch during the ride.

Loosen up. The tighter you grip, the more it’ll hurt later. That’s why you’ll often find the first ride of the season the most painful as far as arm pump goes – you’re not as relaxed and comfortable on the bike and gripping too tightly as a result.

Ride a lot. Lots of riding not only builds up the right forearm strength, it builds up your confidence and gives you a more relaxed grip.

Exercise. There’s a lot of debate about this one. You hear about riders who go to the gym and still get forearm pump, and then about the skinny, lazy dirt bike riders who never get arm pump. If you’re inclined to try exercise, a squeezable rubber ball, or firm foam ball works well. Another exercise is to tie a weight to one end of a rope and a 1 to 2-inch dowel on the other end. Lift and lower the weight by twisting the dowel, with your arms held as far forward as you can manage.

Get the right gloves, not the tight gloves. You don’t want to restrict blood flow or finger motion.

Brake and clutch levers should be set up so that they’re easy to manipulate while riding. The rule of thumb is to have them in line with your forearms when you’re in the proper riding position.

If you have small hands or short fingers, you may want to try smaller handgrips.

Keep your forearms warm. Too much cool air restricts blood flow and increases the chances of forearm pump.

2007-10-04T10:16:00.004-05:00

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Washing Your Dirt Bike
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If your dirt bike is just going to get dirty again, why wash it at all? The fact is, good dirt bike maintenance starts with good cleaning habits -- if for no other reason than, “you can’t fix a problem if you can’t see it in the first place.”

It’s a good idea to get into the habit of washing your dirt bike after every riding session. Find a routine that works for you and stick to it – the easier you make it for yourself, the more likely you are to do it. What follows is a combination of how my buddies and I keep our dirt bikes clean, take what works for you and alter as needed.

Step one is to plug that exhaust pipe. You can buy an exhaust plug, shove in a cork, stuff in a rag, or hold a plastic bag in place with a rubber band -- anything that’ll keep water out of your exhaust (without getting stuck in the pipe itself).

If the ride was dry and the most you did was kick up some dust, a good hosing off is often all you need.

If you have a lot of caked on mud and grime you’re going to need some extra pressure. I stick to the “pistol” attachment on my garden hose – it has a variety of settings to adjust the flow and pressure. I keep clear of pressure washers as much as possible and use them VERY carefully when I have to. A pressure washer can force water, and even the grit you’re trying to remove, into seals, bearings, electrical parts, and cables.

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Work from top to bottom when washing and rinsing, and get yourself a routine for which parts and which side you’ll wash and in which order. If you do it the same way every time, you’ll get a little faster every time.

If you’re lucky, the hose will get off all the muck, but chances are you’ll have to do a little scrubbing as well. A stroll through the household section of any department store will get you a huge selection of brushes in all shapes and sizes for getting into all your dirt bike’s nook and crannies.

I don’t use a cleaner or detergent every time, but that’s just a personal preference – again, it makes things a little easier and faster, so I’m willing to do it regularly. If you choose to soap it up, you can buy specific products for cleaning bikes, but I’ve never run into trouble using the same stuff I wash my truck with.

If you have a lot of grease or oil to get rid of, it’s worth using a spray-on degreaser. Follow the instructions. Note that if you use a degreaser on your dirt bike while on a paved driveway, there’s a good chance it’s going to stain.

With detergents and/or degreasers, rinse well!

If your dirt bike is liquid-cooled, be careful around the radiator fins. My preference is to backwash them (spray in the back, out the front) with fairly low pressure but lots of volume. High pressure and/or brushes can bend the fins.

If you’re going to do a MAJOR cleaning – for example, before storing or selling your dirt bike – pop the seat off to keep the foam from absorbing any water. With the seat off, you can remove and clean the air filter and carefully clean the inside of the air box. Keep the air box covered and sealed while washing. Air box covers are available, and if you’re going to frequently clean around the exposed air box, they’re worth the cost.

If you’re careful and gentle, you can also clean between your fork dust seals, as well as the fork seals themselves. Using a small screwdriver, CAREFULLY pry the dust seals away from the fork seals. Clean out any residue with a gentle flow of water – too much pressure and you’re going to push the stuff you’re trying to clean away past the fork the seal. If you feel the need to scrape, use a clean business card, piece of an index card, or pieces cut from a file folder. After it’s clean, a lot of riders pack in a little waterproof grease between the dust seal and fork seal.

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After you’re done with the water part of cleaning your dirt bike, it’s not a bad idea to start it up and let it run until it’s warm. This will help get rid of any residual moisture. Of course if you’re washing your 2-stroke around midnight in the middle of the suburbs, you may want to reconsider firing it up.

Don’t forget to clean your chain.

If you really want to spiff things up, you can wipe down the plastics with an Armor-All type of product, or something with a silicone base. Smooth and shiny plastics have the advantage of being easier to clean later.

DO NOT POLISH UP YOUR SEAT! By all means, clean your seat, but avoid using anything slippery on it. A soft scrub brush works well, and so do those new micro-fiber cloths (the cheap ones usually work as well as the expensive ones). To clean a seat that has years of build up on it, lay a fairly damp rag on it for an hour before cleaning – it tends to soften up the grime.

It doesn’t hurt to occasionally remove the ignition cover after washing to check for moisture leakage.

2007-09-28T16:19:00.005-05:00

Four Strokes versus Two Strokes
2-Strokes vs. 4-Strokes
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If you spend any time in the dirt bike or motocross world at all, you’ll probably catch a debate about 2-strokes compared to 4-strokes. Or if you’re thinking about buying a new or used dirt bike for the first time, you’ll wonder if you should go with a two-stroke or four-stroke. Here are a few basics on the two types of engines.

2-Stroke Operation

1) The fuel/air mixture is pulled into the crankcase (not the cylinder) by the vacuum created during the upward stroke of the piston.

2) During the downward stroke, the valve into the crankcase closes. The fuel mixture is then compressed in the crankcase during the remainder of the stroke.

3) Toward the end of the stroke, the piston exposes the intake port that allows the compressed fuel/air mixture in the crankcase to get past the piston into the main cylinder. On the way in, the fresh fuel/air mixture pushes the exhaust gasses out the exhaust port, usually located on the opposite side of the cylinder. The only way to make sure the cylinder is full of the fuel/air mixture, is to push “too much” through the cylinder, so some unburned fuel/air gets into the exhaust system.

4) The piston then rises, driven by flywheel momentum, and compresses the fuel mixture. It's a little confusing, but at the same time, another intake stroke is taking place in the crankcase -- underneath the piston -- as in step #1.

5) At the top of the stroke the spark plug ignites the fuel mixture. The burning fuel expands, driving the piston downward, to complete the cycle. And again, a little confusing, but underneath the piston, the fuel/air mixture ie being compressed.

You'll find an EXCELLENT animation of a working 2-stroke engine, as well as diagrams, here.

4-Stroke Operation

1) During the intake stroke, the piston moves down, pulling fresh fuel/air mixture through the open intake valve into the cylinder. An exhaust valve in the cylinder is held closed at this stage.

2) With the intake and exhaust valve both closed, the piston moves up in the cylinder, propelled by the momentum of the flywheel. As the piston moves up, the fuel/air mixture is compressed.

3) At the top of the compression stroke the spark plug fires, igniting the compressed fuel/air mixture. The expanding gasses resulting from this controlled explosion push the piston downward.

4) At the bottom of this power stroke, the exhaust valve is opened (the intake valve remains closed) and, as the piston rises again, exhaust is pushed out of the cylinder.

You'll find an EXCELLENT animation of a working 4-stroke engine, as well as diagrams, here.

2-Stroke Engine Advantages

The spark plug fires once every revolution of the crankshaft.

Basically, they produce twice the power of a four stroke engine of the same size.

The two-stroke engine is much simpler than four strokes, with lighter construction and fewer parts.

2-Stroke Engine Disadvantages

You have to buy two-stroke engine oil, measure it, and mix it with your fuel.

Technically, they wear out faster because lubrication is not as efficient as in a four stroke engine with heavier oil.

Because unused fuel is exhausted with each cycle of the engine, they use more fuel.

Because unused fuel is exhausted with each cycle of the engine , they pollute more.

4-Stroke Engine Advantages

They generally last longer than two stroke engines because of the more efficient lubrication of moving parts.

Four-strokes use less fuel.

Four-stroke engines pollute less than two-strokes.

4-Stroke Engine Disadvantages

Construction/assembly/operation of the engine is more complicated. More moving parts means more things that can go wrong (Although I personally have had very little trouble in this respect. How about any of you?).

Four-strokes are half as powerful as two stroke engines of the same size.

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2007-09-19T16:36:00.000-05:00

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Spark Plugs
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WHAT THE SPARK PLUG DOES

The spark plug has one simple, but vital function – to create a spark that ignites the fuel and air in the combustion chamber, causing a controlled explosion that moves the piston.

SPARK PLUG CONSTRUCTION

A spark plug has a center electrode, a ceramic insulator, a metal casing or shell, and a side or ground electrode. The center electrode is a thick piece of metal wire inside the plug, conducting electricity from the ignition cable hooked to the end of the plug to the electrode gap at the other end in the combustion chamber. The insulator is a ceramic casing that surrounds most of the center electrode. The metal casing is a hexagon-shaped shell threaded on one end to allow the spark plug to be installed into a tapped socket in the engine cylinder head. The side or ground electrode is connected to the metal shell and extends toward the center electrode. The tips of the two electrodes are about 0.020 - 0.080 inch apart, creating the gap for the spark to jump across.

SPARK PLUG HEAT RANGE

The heat range of a spark plug refers to thermal characteristics. It measures the amount of time it takes heat to be removed from the tip of the plug and transferred to the engine cylinder head. If the plug tip temperature is too cold when it sparks, carbon, oil, and combustion products can cause the plug to foul. If the plug tip temperature is too hot, you’ll get pre-ignition -- the center electrode burns, and you may damage the piston. Heat range is altered by changing the length of the insulator nose. In short, a long nose results in a hot plug, and short nose is cold.

INDEXING SPARK PLUGS

Some people think it’s critically necessary, others think it’s useless. Indexing a spark plug means installing it so that the open area of the spark gap (the part not blocked by the ground electrode) faces the center of the combustion chamber, towards the intake valve. The belief is that it optimizes the exposure of the fuel-air mixture to the spark. It’s done by marking the location of the gap on the outside of the plug, installing it, and noting the direction the mark faces. Then you have to remove the plug and reinstall it with the right number of washers so that the mark faces in the right direction. You have to redo the process every time you install a new spark plug, since the threads are unlikely to line up the same way from plug to plug.

SPARK PLUG CAPS

The spark plug cap is the fitting at the end of the cable that connects to the plug. Most of us still have the same sparkplug cap the bike came with. But if yours broke or wore out, or you’re one of those riders that has to change everything possible, you have a few choices. The best criteria to use when deciding is to pick the spark plug cap that best matches the natural angle between the wire and the plug itself.

SPARK PLUG GAPPING

Chances are good that, if you bought the exact plug your bike manufacturer calls for, your spark plug is already gapped properly – BUT it’s best to check anyway.

Make sure the gap is what your manual calls for. If you don’t have a manual, ask when you buy the plug. A gap that’s too small gives a short and weak. If the gap is too wide, there may not be enough power to bridge the gap and generate a proper spark.

Only use the wire-type of gauge to measure spark plug gap. They’re far easier to use and far more accurate than the flat feeler gauges.

If you have to adjust the gap, use the proper tool (often found built in to your gauge). Never hold the spark plug by the ceramic neck when adjusting the gap – the leverage can easily crack or break it.

EXAMINING THE PLUG

Spark plugs are disposable -- take it out and toss it. But spark plugs are also a good way to check and diagnose your dirt bike’s engine.

Above is what a normal plug, operating under normal conditions, should look like. A light grey, light tan, or white color means you have the proper heat range and jetting.

The above spark plug is basically just worn out. The color is normal, but you may have noticed some hard starting in damp or cold weather and – if you keep track of that sort of thing – you might have been burning more fuel than usual. Good thing you have that new plug ready to install!

Ouch! Something has smacked your spark plug causing physical damage – either something is in the combustion chamber that shouldn’t be, or your spark plug is too long. First double-check that you have the right length of spark plug -- if you don’t, you’ll solve the problem by buying the correct length. If the plug is the right length, you’ll have to remove whatever foreign material is in the combustion chamber – excessive carbon buildup is often a culprit.

A chipped or cracked insulator tip, like the one above, can result from severe detonation. The wrong gap settings can also cause cracking and chipping. Detonation can lead to piston damage, so deal with it quickly. Check your fuel octane, ignition timing, and your plug’s heat range. If your dirt bike is equipped with EGR or a knock sensor, make sure they’re operating properly.

At first glance, the above overheated plug doesn’t look like much is wrong with it. Check for a chalky look or feel, white (possibly blistered) ceramic, and very little or no deposits. The electrode will also have worn down faster than usual. Check your ignition timing, air/fuel mixture (is it too lean?), intake manifold vacuum leaks, sticking valves, and the spark plug’s heat range. On liquid-cooled engines, check the coolant level and inspect for clogs.

Those light brown bits of stuff on the end of your plug may look a little like rust, but they’re ash deposits. Check for worn valve guides or seals. If you’re using fuel additives, stop using them and check the plug to see if that’s the cause. Sometimes, changing your brand of fuel can help.

When your spark plug is covered in oil like the one above, something is leaking. Oil is sneaking into the combustion chamber, probably via worn valve guides, or piston rings. You’ll notice hard starts, misfires, and hesitation. The only solution is too fix the mechanical problem that’s allowing the oil in.

Initial pre-ignition sounds like something involving a rocket launch. You can identify it by a melted electrode. Check your spark plug’s heat range, too lean a fuel mixture, timing that’s advanced too far, or accumulations that could be causing a hot spot inside the combustion chamber.
If the insulator is destroyed, like the plug shone above, and the electrodes are melted or missing, it could be sustained pre-ignition. Check for too lean a mixture, the wrong heat range for your spark plug, over-advanced timing, hot spots in the combustion chamber (often caused by deposit accumulation).

Little bits of contaminants on the ceramic is often referred to as splashed deposits. Most likely a dirty carburetor bore or air intake -- or a dirty or faulty injector if’n ya gots one. Clean the carburetor and choke assembly, or clean or replace the injectors before you bother putting a new plug in.

If you’re running too rich a mixture, have a weakness in your ignition system, or a spark plug with the wrong heat range, you may get a carbon fouled plug, like the one above. It can cause hesitation, misfiring, and hard shifting. You’ll identify it by dry, black, soot. Check the heat range of your plug first, then examine the choke and make sure it’s working. Take a look for a clogged air element, worn ignition points, and a float level that’s set too high. If you have injectors you may have a clog, a fault in the cold start circuit, or the wrong fuel pressure.

If the insulator has a glazed (high speed glazing), yellowish appearance, it indicates that the combustion chamber temperature has gone up suddenly during hard acceleration, causing normal deposits to melt and form a conductive coating. You’ll notice misfiring at higher speeds. Try using a spark plug with a lower temperature range.

If your bike just dies one day, and you pull the plug to find heavy deposits in the gap – you have gap bridging which simply shorts out the plug and prevents a spark. It’s caused by combustion deposits knocked loose and lodging between the electrodes. Deposits accumulating on the side electrode may also melt when the engine is put under a sudden, heavy load, bridging the gap. Replace the plug.

2007-09-06T13:01:00.000-05:00

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Kids and Dirt Bikes -- Buying
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All right! Your child is showing an interest in dirt bikes – another reason to spend even MORE time on the trail or at the motocross track. But now you have to find him or her a bike. Here are a couple of things to keep in mind.

Make sure you buy a dirt bike that’s the right size for your child. A dirt bike is not something kids can “grow into”. It’s better to start with the right size and let them keep riding when they’re a little too big for it, than to get one they’re too small to handle properly to begin with.

Take your child with you so he or she can sit on any bikes you’re considering. Most beginning riders are only going to feel comfortable if they can rest both feet on the ground while straddling the bike.

The height of the bike is important, but so is the weight. Make sure your child can hold the dirt bike upright while getting off or on, and while kick starting. Also make sure he or she can pick the bike up on their own if it’s lying on its side.

Too much power can be a bad thing, especially for a beginning rider who hasn’t learned proper throttle control. A number of the smaller bikes have a way to control the maximum throttle – so you can start with bike not doing much more than idling at full throttle, and then graduate to wide open when the child is ready.

Look for a used dirt bike if possible. If the child is very young or small, he or she will quickly outgrow it and you’ll lose less money reselling a used bike than a new one. The best part of a used bike though is that neither you nor the child will be as upset when it falls down and gets scratched. If you’re buying for a taller child, you may be able to get something in the 100cc range – and these are big enough for adults to ride as well, so you’ll get more use out of it (but buy with the child in mind, not you).

For general advice on buying a used dirt bike, click here.

2007-08-23T14:34:00.000-05:00

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Dirt Bike Dictionary - Glossary - Slang
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I don’t know what feels worse – not knowing what everyone is talking about, or using the wrong words in front of people who DO know what they’re talking about (Dude, I nac-nac’d my O-ring chain and two-stroked a double into a four-stroke!).

Anyway, the following is an extensive dirt bike and motocross dictionary, glossary, list of slang, whatever you want to call it. But I know we’re missing some, so post a comment and let us know what they are.

Dirt Bike Dictionary / Motocross Terms / Motorcycle Glossary

Back-marker: A slow rider ‘marking’ the back of the pack.

Bar Hop: While airborne, rider keeps both hands on the grips and extends legs straight out between arms and over handlebars.

Berm: Built-up dirt on the outside of a turn. A berm helps a rider take the turn much faster because it acts as banking.

Big Air: Putting lots of air between yourself and the ground while jumping.

Block Pass: Going into a turn, a rider attempting a block pass will accelerate before the apex and position his motorcycle on the inside of the leader, then quickly pivot and make the turn directly in front of the other rider. The rider being passed must brake and is, therefore, blocked.

Bottoming Out: When you compress the shocks all the way down. For example, when jumping and landing hard on the front wheel, or trying to carry four friends on one bike.

Brake Check: Going Braking hard and suddenly to force the rider behind to do the same thing. Often allows the rider in front to gain some distance while the following rider recovers.

Can-Can: When a rider moves one of his legs over the fuel tank to the opposite side of the bike while airborne. The rider must get his leg to the normal riding position in time for the landing (otherwise he performs a can’t can’t). In a No-Footed Can-Can, both legs are extended away from the bike.

Casing It: Coming up short on a double or triple jump and landing on the top of the last jump instead of clearing it. Refers to landing on the engine case.

Checkpoint: A point in a race course to verify that the rider has passed through that spot – to prevent cheating.

Class: Grouping of similar riders in a race – determined by age, bike size, gender, skill, etc.

Clicker: While airborne, laying the motorcycle flat while bringing the back of the bike around.

Cliff Hanger: While airborne, the rider ‘leaves’ the bike, with only his toes catching the underside of the handlebars, and hands raised above his head.

Compression Dampening: Controls how the suspension compresses with an adjustable valve that lets a certain amount of oil through the shock and controls the speed at which it travels through the stroke.

Cordova: While airborne, the rider brings his legs up and hooks his feet under the handlebars, then while still gripping the handlebars, bends his back and tilts his head so he’s looking backwards and upside down over the rear of the bike.

DNF: Did not finish.

Doubles: Two jumps positioned so that riders can clear both jumps at once, rather than tackling each jump one at a time. Triples are, obviously, the same thing with three jumps.

DQ'ed: Disqualified.

Endo: To go head first over the handlebar.

Fat Air: Putting lots of air between yourself and the ground while jumping.

Flying W: Hands on the handlebars, feet in the air, knees bent so that the body resembles a "W", while airborne.

Four-Stroke: A type of engine, or a bike using that type of engine.

Getting Air: Both wheels off the ground, usually during a jump.

Grabbing Air: Both wheels off the ground, usually during a jump.

Hart Attack: Invented by Carey Hart, While airborn, the rider does a handstand in midair with one hand on the handlebars, the other on the seat.

Holeshot: The first rider through the first turn at the beginning of a race. A great position to be in.

Hot Tire Cutter: Used on knobby tires to custom carve them and match them to the terrain.

Indo: Using the front brake to raise the rear wheel off the ground. Also called a stoppie.

In The Weeds: Off the track – either through a mistake of your own, or by being forced off by another rider.

Knobbies: The type of tires used on dirt bikes – named after the large (usually square) knobs of rubber designed for better traction in dirt.

Lapper: A slow rider being lapped by other riders.

Lazy Boy: While airborne, the rider lets go of the handlebars and lies on his back across the seat with feet extending past the handlebars.

Line: The path of the motorcycle as a rider goes through an area of track or around a turn.

Loop It or Loop Out: When the front of your dirt bike gets too high over a jump and you land vertically or on your back.

Low Down: Lying flat against the bike and releasing your hands from the handlebars while airborne.

Monkey Butt: How your rear feels after a lot of riding.

Nac-Nac: Bringing your leg from one side of the motorcycle across the back of the bike to the opposite side – while airborne -- and returning a normal riding position before landing.

No-Hander: Taking both hands off the handlebar while in midair over a jump.

No-Hander Lander: Performing a no-hander and landing the jump with hands still off the handlebars.

Obstacle: Exactly what it sounds like – anything that gets in your way. Large or difficult hills, awkward turns, jumps, rocks, whoops, creeks, etc.

On The Pipe: Traveling fast. Exhaust pipes are designed to perform best at certain engine speeds. When a bike is on the pipe, it’s getting maximum power.

O-Ring Chain: Motorcycle chain with rings made of rubber fitted between links. O-ring motorcycle chains help seal in the lubricant.

ORV/OHV: Off-Road or Off-Highway vehicle.

OTB: Over the (handle)bars.

Pinned: Going full throttle.

Pit Board: A large sign shown to rider as he goes past. Pit crews use the pit board to show a rider's position, or other advice, to the rider.

Power Band: The point where your engine produces the maximum power as you accelerate the bike.

Power Shift: Shifting without using the clutch.

Power Slide: Sliding the bike sideways while accelerating.

Pre-Load: Compressing a suspension spring to take extra loads or for a harder or softer ride.

Ragdoll(ing): Arms and legs flopping every which way while flying throughthe air or rolling across the ground after a crash.

Regrip: Repositioning your throttle hand so that it is in the neutral position whne power is increased, instead of bent up and back.

Roost / Rooster Tail: The shower of debris that shoots up and back from your rear tire.

Ruts: Deep grooves in the ground/track – usually left by earlier riding.

Sandbagging: Riding slower than your able to in a race so you’re moved to a more advanced class – giving you a competitive edge in the class you remain in.

Saran Wrap: While airborne, starts with both hands on the grips. One leg is lifted, placed between the riders arms, and then one arm is lifted so the leg can swing around the bars and end up back on the peg.

Scraping: Banking your bank to the point where the footpegs scrape the ground.

Shroud: Plastic on the side of a dirt bike protecting the radiator.

Spring Rates: The numbers used to indicate the stiffness of fork springs or shock springs.

Sprockets: Gears on the rear wheel and countershaft. You’ll find them at either end of the chain.

Squirrelly: Losing control of the bike.

Stiction: The friction between suspension components as they move against each other.

Stoppie: Using the front brake to raise the rear wheel off the ground. Also called an indo.

Straightaway: A straight section of track long enough to accelerate and race at higher speeds.

Superman: Taking your feet off the foot pegs and throwing them to the back of the motorcycle while airborne, so you resemble Superman when he flies.

Superman Seat Grab: Taking your feet off the foot pegs and throwing them to the back of the motorcycle while airborne to perform a a Superman, then letting go of the handlebars with one hand and grabbing the seat.

Swingarm: The part of a motorcycle that connects the rear wheel to the chassis.

Table-Top (Jump): Picture either a double jump with the middle filled in (level with the top of a jump), or a jump twice as high as usual with the entire top cut off, leaving a flat surface with a ‘ramp’ on either end.

Technical: An area of track with difficult obstacles that have to be taken at slower speeds.

Tight Track: A track with mostly sharp turns packed closely together.

Top End: Top part of the engine - the piston and ring inside the cylinder.

Trail: The distance from the point where the tire rests on the ground to the line drawn down the forks to the ground.

Triples: Three jumps positioned so that riders can clear all three jumps at once, rather than tackling each jump one at a time. Doubles are the same thing with two jumps.

Two-Stroke: A type of engine, or a bike using that type of engine.

Wash Out: The front wheel breaking loose due to a loss of traction.

Wheelie: Riding on only the rear wheel.

Whip: Guiding the bike, while airborne, so that it lies flat.

Whoops / Whoop-de-doos: A row of dirt mounds or moguls.

2007-08-23T14:29:00.000-05:00

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Dirt Bike and Motocross Links
(some of the ones we like, anyway)
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One day, we’d like to be the biggest one-stop source for dirt bike and motocross tips and advice, but that’s just a small part of the two-wheeled-off-road world. There are hundreds of resources out there to help riders and we’re having fun discovering them.

Below, we have a list of some of the places we’ve come across that we like. We know we’re just scratching the surface, so feel free to leave any links you’d like to recommend.

And hey, if you operate a dirt chewing website, we’d appreciate a link as well.

FORUMS

http://www.mototips.com/
An excellent forum and a great bunch of knowledgeable people. Also has separate forums for Honda, Yamaha, Suzuki, and Kawasaki related posts… a nice touch!

http://www.all-offroad.com/
The forums aren’t as active, but some good information.

http://www.dirtbikeworld.net/
Big forum section, active, lots of recent posts – good place to go if you have a question.

http://www.dirtrider.net/
Extensive and very organized forum.

VIDEOS

http://hobbies.expertvillage.com/interviews/motocross-tips-tricks.htm
Some basic riding and maintenance tips on video.

PIT BIKES

It’s getting tougher and tougher to find wide open spaces to ride, so a lot of dirt bike riders and motocross fans are switching to pit bikes, or adding a pit bike or two to their stable. It’s a great way to pack huge amounts of fun into a small track or short trail. The problem is, the increased popularity means more bikes being manufactured – and most are poor quality. Here’s one guy that’s researched the market and manufacturers and found some of the best pit bikes available. Mini Mob Racing

DIRT BIKE SHIRTS AND OTHER GIFT IDEAS

If you're looking for a great shirt (like the ones displayed at the top and bottom of this page), or a mug to let everyone at the office know you'd rather be riding, check here. Most products are customizable -- so you can add your name, the name of the person you're giving a gift to, or your club's name.

2007-08-17T13:44:00.000-05:00

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Air Filter Cleaning
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Our goal is to create the biggest FREE source of online dirt bike tips and motocross advice. Tell your friends, email the webmaster of your favourite site. The more people who show up and contribute, the more free tips we’ll collect.

The following tips and advice are for cleaning air filters. If you have one to add, please post it as a comment. Think a tip is wrong? We’re open-minded enough to want your opinion, so let us know. Thanks for your contribution!

AIR FILTER CLEANING TIPS

1) Remove the seat.

2) Remove the wing nut that holds the air filter in place.

3) Carefully remove the cage inside the sponge part of the air filter

4) Clean the foam with a solvent. Filter solvents are recommended, but many riders just use gasoline. Apparently gasoline can damage the foam or glues holding it together, so the choice (and responsibility) is up to. Remember the solvent is flammable!

5) It’s a good idea to wear some gloves when working with solvent. The thin rubber ones used for house cleaning are fine, or you can get even cheaper disposable ones. Sometimes the cheaper ones want to slip off – if so, use a rubber band to hold it on at the wrist.

6) Always squeeze the filter. Never wring it out or you’ll wreck the foam.

7) After some repeated squishing in the solvent, squeeze out all the excess.

8) Wash the filter in soapy water, and then rinse it out well.

9) Squeeze out the excess water and set the foam aside to dry. If you’re running your furnace or air conditioner, setting it on top of a vent can speed up the process.

10) While you’re waiting for the foam to dry, clean off all the other disassembled parts. Also check the inlet to the carb – if you wipe it, make sure you’re pulling dirt out, not pushing it in.

11) Cleaning the air box itself is easier if you remove it completely from the bike.

12) When the foam is dry, it’s time to coat it in filter oil. You have two choices – spraying and dunking. When spraying, apply it liberally, then squeeze the filter repeatedly to make sure all the foam is covered. To dunk, find a container that the foam insert will fit into and add your filter oil. Stick in the entire piece of foam, make sure it’s soaked, and then squeeze out the excess.

13) Apply a thin smear of bearing grease along the outer edge of the foam that goes against the air box. This ensures a dust-free seal.

14) Wipe away any grease in the air box, leftover from removing the filter earlier.

15) Put the foam back over the cage, and reinstall it in the air box.

16) Put the seat back on.

2007-08-07T15:05:00.000-05:00

.TERMS AND CONDITIONS OF USAGE -- IMPORTANT INFORMATION

The information contained in any or all documents on this website is provided at no cost and without any warranty or guarantees whatsoever.

The author and contributors are not responsible for any errors contained herein, and make no claims whatsoever as to the legality, safety, validity, or veracity of the information and advice contained in this document. Indeed, many of the techniques described herein are extremely dangerous and should not be performed except by factory-trained mechanics and/or professional riders.

The information contained on this website is provided for entertainment purposes only, and is not in any way a guarantee that the motorcycle you buy will be functional, safe or usable, or that you (or others) will not be seriously injured or killed by attempting to follow said information.

We are also not responsible for any information provided by outside sources via links, etc.

All riders should have a factory-trained, professional mechanic inspect any motorcycle before purchasing, after repairing, or before riding it. Any use of the information contained in any documents on this web site is done solely at your own risk.

2007-08-07T14:57:00.000-05:00

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Changing Tires
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Considering how much punishment that thin envelope of air in your dirt bike tire takes, it's amazing we're not repairing flats more often than we do. Fortunately, when it does happen, it's a repair you can do on your own.

Different bikes have different tires and sometimes different parts, but the following should give you the needed basics to get the job done.

1) Put the bike up on a stand. If you don’t have a stand, block it up somehow, under the frame. Those square plastic milk crates and a few 2x4’s work great.

2) Remove the wheel (rim and tire) from the bike.

3) Let the air out of the tube,

4) Remove the valve from the tube.

5) Remove the rim locknut.

6) Put the tire on a flat surface and, using your heel, break the tire loose from the rim. Do both sides.

7) Slip a tire iron between the tire and rim and start lifting the tire off and above the rim. Start far away from the rim lock.

8) About six inches from the first iron, slip in a second tire iron and do the same.

9) A third iron really helps here – you can repeat the above step and use the first two irons to keep the tire from popping back down – but you can usually do it with two.

10) Once one side of the tire is completely free, carefully remove the tube. Don’t just rip ‘er out... take your time and watch that valve stem.

11) Carefully remove the rim strip – the rubber strip that protects the inner tube from the spokes.

12) Remove the rim lock by lifting the tire out of the way.

13) Pop the tire completely off the rim. You may or may not need the tire irons to do so.

14) Clean everything. Get rid of all that stuff that’s built up inside the rim. If you’ve been thinking about replacing spokes, now’s a great time. We have instructions on this website.

15) Installation is basically the reverse of the above. Put the rim lock on first. Slip it through its hole and install the washers and lock nut – but don’t tighten things down yet. Note: some rim strips go on before the rim lock, some after -- if you have holes in the rim strip for the valve stem AND rim lock, then put the strip on first.

16) Put the rim strip back on and make sure you get it centered over the spokes and line up the hole for the valve stem. An optional step is to lay down a couple of layers of duct tape on the inside of the rim, over the spoke ends, and then put the rim strip on. The duct tape adds an extra layer of protection. On most rims, you can use half a width of the tape -- cut a long enough strip to go around the rim, hang one end up somewhere high, and split it down the middle with scissors or a knife. Wrap one layer around with just a very slight overlap, then lay the other layer down so its joint is opposite the first. Punch the holes for the valve stem and rim lock, then install the rim strip.

17) Slip one edge of the tire over the rim. Make sure you clear the rim lock.

18) Put a pound or two of air in the inner tube to make it easier to handle, then carefully guide it onto the rim, between the tire. Again, careful with the valve stem. Install the nut on the valve stem, but don’t tighten it up yet.

19) On the side opposite the valve stem, start popping the second edge of the tire onto the rim. Work in small sections at a time, and go from side to side instead of all the way around. Make sure the valve stem stays straight and centered. You can push on the sidewalls as you work to keep the inner tube away from the tire irons.

20) Push the rim lock in slightly, and guide the tire bead underneath it.

21) Double check to make sure everything is in place, and nothing is pinched or twisted.

22) Inflate the tire.

23) Tighten down the rim lock and valve stem.

24) Congratulate yourself on a job well done – unless you hear a hissing sound. Then go back to step one and make sure you don’t pinch the inner tube with a tire iron this time.

Soapy water can help ease the tire off the rim. It can also make things messy and slippery, so don’t overdo it.

Protect all those other parts on your wheel – brake discs for example. A 5-gallon pail or an old car tire rim can make a good stand.

2007-07-18T16:40:00.001-05:00

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Jumps
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Whether you’re trying to nail a triple in a motocross competition, or jumping a boulder on the trail, jumping a dirt bike is an important skill – and fun when it’s done correctly.

Start small. There are a lot of things that can go wrong in jump – air wheelies, going sideways, mid-air somersaults, missing the landing – and if you’re going to goof, it’s better to do it close to the ground.

As non-logical as it sounds, the best way to approach a jump is almost always in a standing position. Click here for more about standing.

Pick the line BEFORE you jump – it’s really tough to change directions once you’re in the air.

On the trail, most jumps are small and you’ll take them as they come, but if you’re messing around the gravel pit, trying out the local track, or grabbing air over driveways while ditch banging, check out the jump first. Ride over it slowly or at least next to it. Rehearse your approach, jump, and landing in your head.

An even throttle as you start the jump should give you the right arc for a good landing.

Increasing throttle while starting the jump can lift the front wheel.

Decreasing throttle while starting the jump can drop the front wheel.

If the front wheel lifts, pull in the clutch, tap the rear brake, and lean forward.

If the front wheel starts to dive, accelerate – the bike will want to spin in the opposite direction of the rear tire, so you may get the front wheel up again.

If the bike starts to go sideways (crossing it up), keep your body lined up with the bike and accelerate on the landing – if you’re lucky you’ll be able to correct once you land… if not, your friends will love showing you the video.

Live With Fear Dirt Bike Motocross Mug by allanGEE
design your own mug On Zazzle.com
See other Motorcycle Racing Mugs

Practice jumps in your head, until the steps become second nature. Then practice what you’re going to do if the jump goes bad. Halfway through a bad jump is a bad time to pull out a textbook and review proper procedure and corrective measures.

2007-07-18T16:34:00.000-05:00

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Riding Position
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It can be argued that your body position while riding is the most important thing to get correct.

Most of us think of dirt bikes as bicycles with engines – and we end up sitting down for most of the ride – stand up!

Stand up, and your legs act like shock absorbers over rough ground.

Stand up, and you’ll be able to handle rougher terrain, at faster speeds, with more control.

Stand up, and keep your feet centered on the pegs for better control of your foot levers. Yes, you CAN shift while standing up.

Stand up, and use your knees to grip the bike on the tank. Keep your knees slightly bent for comfort and to absorb bumps.

Stand up, with your elbows up and forward.

Stand up, bent at the waist, head over the handlebars, butt over the seat.

Stand up, as much as you can. Sit down if you get tired, but then get back up as soon as you can. The more you stand, the longer you’ll be able to do it.

Stand up and stay loose. If you’re tense, you’ll tire out faster. At the risk of over-simplifying… instead of trying to force the bike to go somewhere, let it bounce where it wants to while gently and consistently correcting.

There are times when you do want to sit down, turns for example.

Practice keeping one or two fingers on the clutch and front brake.

2007-07-17T16:35:00.000-05:00

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Buying Used Dirt Bike
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Maybe it’s time to buy a bigger bike, or maybe you’re after your first bike – but now it’s time to decide whether to buy new or used. Used can definitely save you money, but a lot of (potential) riders don’t feel confident enough to spend money on what may be a lemon or damaged goods. The following tips and advice should give you the information you need, and boost your confidence when buying a used dirt bike.

GENERAL TIPS

Decide how much you want to spend BEFORE you start looking. It’ll help narrow down and speed up your search, and it’ll keep you from paying more than you can afford. It’s no fun having a bike you regret owning.

No matter how excited you are to own one, don’t buy the first bike you see. The more used dirt bikes you look at, the better you’ll get at it. An exception to the rule would be if you have someone experienced with you.

If you’ve targeted a used but newer model, you’ll probably find reviews in back issues of magazines or online. If that fails, get the opinions of other riders on various dirt bike and motocross forums.

Generally speaking, a used dirt bike is cheaper from a private seller than a dealer.

Watch out for “private” sellers who are selling a number of bikes at the same time. They may be unloading over-priced junk they picked up somewhere else.

If a deal seems too good to be true, it probably is. The dirt bike might have some hidden damage or even be stolen. Check to see if any registration or serial numbers have been removed or altered. If they are, walk away – and let the police know so some other buyer doesn’t get taken (and maybe the REAL owner will get his bike back).

Remember the dirt bike probably looks better on the day you’re looking at than it has in months or years. The seller will shine it up and possibly replace cheap parts. Check the ENTIRE bike for wear and tear.

Fluids dripping from a bike are always a reason to look closely and dig deeper.

If the seller is reluctant to let you take it out of sight (some bikes have been stolen during a test drive) let him hang on to your drivers license and car keys. Bring a helmet for the test ride. If you brought your experienced friend, let him or her take it for a spin as well.

When you’re shopping, keep track of the prices people are asking for similar bikes – it’ll give you a better idea if you’re getting a fair price.

Let the seller talk. Often, the more you keep your mouth shut, the more they’ll say (human nature). They may give out information you wouldn’t get otherwise.

Don’t be afraid to ask the obvious questions – was it raced, trail-ridden, any crashes, major repairs, how often was the oil changed. An honest seller will understand why you’re asking and won’t mind answering.

Don’t nickel and dime the seller over minor things like scratches and decals. The bike’s USED. You can mention obvious problems and needed repairs and intelligently work it into your offer. Remember, the seller has probably dealt with a lot of jerks already – you’ll get along better and get a fairer price if you’re reasonable and honest.

Once you make the deal, but before you pay, don’t forget to ask about any manuals, receipts, and spare parts they may have. If the bike has a key, obviously make sure you get one, but ask if they have a spare (and if they don’t, get one cut right away!).

If you’re lucky enough to have an experienced rider as a friend, by all means bring him or her along. Their experience is obviously valuable, but so is the extra set of eyes. If you can, narrow down your search and get their opinion before making your final decision – that way you can use less of their time. And buying your friend lunch is well worth it if it saves you from making an expensive purchasing mistake.

If someone experienced can’t come with you… go to them. When they have some spare time, ask them to go over THEIR bike with you, front to back. They’ll give you a great idea of what to look for, and where.

If the seller claims work has been done in a shop, it’s reasonable to ask to see the receipts.

After-market paint is a warning sign! Ask why it’s there.

Racers often use safety wire to keep bolts in place. Small holes through bolt heads are a good indication that the bike has been raced.

Sometimes after-market stickers and decals are slapped on to hide damage or defects. If it seems like an odd place for a sticker, take a closer look.

WHICH BIKE?

Honda? Kawasaki? Well-known names? Names you’ve never heard of? 100cc 4-stroke? 250cc 2-stroke? How do you decide which dirt bike to buy?

Try and ride as many different bikes as you can. If you have a bunch of dirt biking friends, this gets easier. If not, check out which dealers offer a try before you buy approach. A lot of rural dealers have a field or track you can take bikes for a spin on. A bike you’re comfortable with is one you’ll ride better and more often.

Different makes of bikes have their own quirks and problems. Check out reviews where you can (online tends to be the easiest for used). Ask people who are already riding. Go to dealerships and ask why their models are better than the competition’s.

ENGINE

Ask the seller to not start the bike before you come to look at it. If the pipe or engine feels warm when you arrive, chances are it has trouble starting cold. Carefully check the engine case (in case it’s hot) instead of the exhaust. The exhaust gets hotter, but the case will stay warm much longer after running.

The engine should start fairly easily with, at most, a few kicks.

An engine that’s hard to start could be something as simple as fouled plug (easy and cheap to replace) or as complicated as an ignition or compression problem (potentially very expensive and/or time consuming). Assume that if it’s a cheap/simple fix, the seller would have taken care of it already.

It’s normal to need some choke when starting a cold engine. Later, when the engine is warmed up, choke shouldn’t be required.

Loud metal-on-metal sounds are a warning sign. Politely thank the seller and walk away.

If it sounds like something’s vibrating, try to track it down. It could be loose mounting bolts, number plates, etc.

There shouldn’t be any hesitation when twisting the throttle.

Test the throttle cables by turning the handlebars fully to one side and then twisting and releasing the throttle. It should snap back on its own. Repeat the test with the handlebars turned fully in the other direction, and in the center. If it sticks or returns slowly when cranked to one side, it’s probably a cable routing issue – not too hard to fix. If there’s resistance in every position, it could be a carburetor problem, a bent handlebar, or seized cables. If the bike is running in neutral, and the engine revs when you turn the handlebars without touching the throttle, it’s most likely due to poor cable routing.

Some bikes use a fuel pump which needs to build pressure before the bike will start. These bikes will have an ignition switch. When you turn on the ignition, you should hear a hum from the gas tank. The bike is ready to start when the humming stops.

All those moving parts in an engine need to seal tightly to work properly, and to keep fuel from mixing with oil and coolant. Compression is basically a measurement of how tight the seal is in the combustion chamber.

The best test is with a compression tester, but this isn’t always an option. Instead, try this: turn the engine over with the kick-starter and, if it feels harder to turn at certain points (almost like it’s sticking) -- you're getting compression – that’s good. If it feels loose all the way around, you probably have compression problems.

TRANSMISSION

If you can’t take the bike for a spin (and you really should), put it up on a safe stand with the rear wheel off the ground. Shift through all the gears to make sure they all engage. Idle speed is fine and keep the front brake locked in case the bike slips off the stand.

Check the transmission fluid level. There’ll either be a site glass (a little “window”) or a dipstick. The dipstick is often bart of the filler cap. After the bike has been off for a few minutes, make sure it’s standing level front to back and left to right. The level should be in the safe range of the dipstick, and between the upper and lower edges of the sight glass. It would take a pretty stupid seller to not fill the transmission properly before showing the bike, so if it’s way too high or too low, that’ll tell you something.

You’ll have to judge how honest you think the seller is, but ask how often the oil was changed. A lot will depend on how often and how hard they rode the bike. The motocrosser who races every week will need far more changes than the trail rider who heads out for a couple of hours once a month.

Drip some oil onto a white piece of paper or paper towel. Black is the normal color after use -- ask how long ago it was changed. A clear gold color means it’s new, recently changed – is the buyer hiding something? White milky streaks means water, probably coolant, is leaking into oil – there’s a defective seal somewhere (check the coolant section). Greyish oil is usually the result of a lot of aluminum particles – not a panic situation on a dirt bike in some people’s opinion, but not something I like. Shiny flecks in the oil are bits of metal – something is wrong.

COOLANT

If the bike you’re looking at has a radiator, it’s referred to as liquid-cooled. No radiator means it’s air-cooled.

If it’s liquid cooled, check the radiator for bent fins or crimped fittings, or major dents.

Check the coolant level when the bike is COOL. If the engine is hot or even warm, you can burn yourself severely.

Obviously if the coolant level is very low, or there’s no coolant, that’s a bad sign.

If you found white streaks in the oil, it could mean that coolant is getting into the transmission, or it might be condensation from the air in the engine. White streaks from condensation should disappear after a half-hour of riding.

Coolant in your oil is the result of faulty gaskets or worse. Something worth looking into and fixing if you already own the bike – not worth the risk or hassle if you’re buying it.

The coolant should have green, almost glowing color to it – this will be antifreeze mixed with the water. Antifreeze is formulated to keep the water from freezing AND to raise the boiling point so the bike doesn’t boil over. A 50/50 mix is typical. Straight antifreeze is BAD.

Straight water means the coolant system hasn’t had the benefit of corrosion inhibitors.

Brown or murky coolant is caused by oil or rust. Rust on the inside of an engine is bad. Oil leaking into the coolant is bad.

EXHAUST

A dirt bike might put out some white smoke from the exhaust as it’s warming up, but exhaust gasses should pretty much be invisible once the engine and exhaust pipe are hot. White smoke from a warm engine usually means a bad head gasket.

Blue smoke from the exhaust indicates the engine is burning oil. This is normal for a 2-stroke since oil is mixed in with the fuel. The smoke should decrease as the engine warms up, but won’t disappear. Excessive amounts of smoke bear looking into.

Black smoke usually occurs when the engine is running rich (too much fuel, not enough air).

Check for holes, cracks, significant dents. On two-strokes you can often spot even pinhole leaks by the oil that seeps out.

Mufflers/silencers/spark arrestors need to be repacked occasionally. The only real way to tell is to know what the bike should sound like -- louder than normal and it probably needs repacking.

BRAKES

With the bike in neutral, roll it forward and gently apply the front brakes. The lever should move easily and the brake should engage smoothly. Then release the lever and ensure the brake isn’t dragging.

If the front brake lever comes all the way back to the bar with very little, or no resistance, something’s out of whack. If you know how to adjust the lever, you can try that. The fix may be as simple as bleeding the brake or something far more expensive. When in doubt, move on and look at a different dirt bike.

To check the rear brake, straddle the dirt bike, roll it forward and push the lever down. The lever should move smoothly, and the brake should engage evenly.

If the brakes are drum brakes instead of disc, you’ll have to open them up to check pads and drums. Pads are fairly inexpensive.

Look into the calipers on disc brakes. There should be at least 1/8" of brake pad material on each pad.

Rotors can be warped. If you can see the warp with your eye, it’s severe – move on. A test ride will help you feel any slight pulsing a warp would cause.

Check the rotors for grooving by dragging your fingernail across it.

Check the brake hoses for damage and leaks.

CLUTCH

With the bike in first gear, squeeze the clutch all the way in and roll it forward. It should feel like neutral, although there could be a little more resistance. Slowly let the clutch out and feel for the friction zone. Clutch engagement should be fairly smooth, not abrupt.

If the lever feels loose and moves a little, it could just be the cable adjuster (on the cable, next to the lever) needs to be turned.

GAS TANK

Look for dents in metal tanks, and creases in plastic ones. Minor damage can be expected on a used bike, but watch for anything that indicates a big crash.

Look for rust inside metal tanks – use a flashlight. Rust can clog your carburetor.

Look for any kind of sediment in plastic or metal tanks. Sediment can clog your carburetor.

Gas that’s the same color as a mug of coffee has probably been sitting in the tank for a long time. Chances are good you’ll have to clean the fuel system and carburetor.

SEAT

Expect the seat to be worn. The older the bike, the more wear.

Rips and tears can let water into the foam if it rains on your bike, or you ride it (or fall over) in water. You can do an effective, but so great looking recovering on your own… buy and install a new seat skin that will fit and look a lot better… or send the seat out to be done.

Make sure the seat is fastened properly. Give it a shake.

TIRES

When you test ride the bike, try to find some flat ground. Rhythmic thumping or shaking that changes pace to match your speed can be caused by unbalanced tires or flat spots.

Check for obvious damage and excessive wear.

If you’re not going to be competing, you can have quite a bit of wear on your tires without affecting performance too much.

ELECTRICAL

Make sure the kill switch works.

Check connection on plug wire.

Follow all wires and look for breaks, or places where the insulation is worn through.

If the bike is equipped with an electric start, make sure it works. If the battery is dead, don’t even think about buying the bike until you can come back and try it when the battery is working. The dead battery could be a poor attempt to hide a more serious electrical problem.

If it’s a dual-purpose bike with headlight and signal lights, check them out. Bulbs are cheap, so if a light is dead assume it’s something else (otherwise the seller would have replaced the bulb).

Watch the headlight while revving the engine. If it gets brighter at higher revs the battery could be dead or close to dead, or the voltage regulator could be shot.

SUSPENSION

Hold the front brake in while straddling the bike and push down on the front forks. They should compress and come back up with slight resistance.

Press down hard on rear of bike. Suspension should compress and come back up with slight resistance.

Fork surface should be smooth and free of damage or fluid leaks.

Rear shock should be free of leaks.

Get the bike up on a stand and try to move the swing arm back and forth (not up and down), and try to move the front forks back to front, front to back. If you have a lot of play on either, there could be worn bearings – an expensive repair.

WHEELS

Check rims for visual damage.

With the bike on a stand, spin the wheels. Dents and warped rims are easier to spot when the wheel is spinning. Find a stationary part of the bike near the wheel and watch as it spins – it shouldn’t get nearer or farther at any point in the rotation.

Front wheel should spin freely with hardly any resistance at all.

Rear wheel should spin freely, but will slow down quickly because of chain friction.

It’s tedious, but wiggle each spoke. Lots of loose or missing spokes indicate a lack of maintenance. A couple of missing spokes are easy to replace, but depending where you can get parts, some places only sell entire spoke sets, not the one or two you need.

CHAIN (& SPROCKETS)

Hopefully you remembered to have a rag handy. Grab the chain at the very back of the rear sprocket and pull. If you can see more than half of a sprocket tooth, you’ll need to replace the chain or sprocket.

If the sprocket teeth look hooked (like claws), they’re worn. The teeth should look the same on both sides, as should the gap between the teeth. If you roll the bike backwards and hear a clicking from the rear sprocket, it’s probably hooked.

The chain should have about ¾-inch play in the middle, at the bottom. Exact amount will depend on individual bikes (check the manual) but what you’re looking for is excessive tightness which leads to excessive wear, or excessive slack which indicates poor maintenance.

FRAME

Check for cracks in the frame and in welds, and if it looks like there’s a weld where one doesn’t belong, compare it to another bike.

This video is also worth looking at.

2007-07-11T15:47:00.000-05:00

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Obstacles
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Most of the time, the best way over an obstacle is head on.

Throttle control is critical, so practice. Too much and, instead of lifting the front wheel, you'll flip the bike. Start with little rocks or logs and work your way up.

Don't lay off the throttle after you get the front wheel up or over. Keep the momentum going to bring the back wheel along as well.

Some obstacles are just the right height and width for you to get hung up on the frame, putting you on the center of a dirt bike teeter totter. Be ready for it -- your first instinct will probably be to lean forward, or your momentum may cause you to lean forward. You want to lean backwards to keep the rear wheel on the ground and keep the bike moving.

Always ride straight up or straight down a hill. Climbing a hill at an angle, or traversing (moving parallel to the slope) it is a good way to lose control, fall off, or start rolling downhill.

If you're riding a trail up a steep hill and end up stopping for any reason, hit the brakes and stay on them until you're ready to go again. Don't try and turn around to go down, or you'll probably end up going down the hard way. Depending where you are on the hill, you may be able to slowly ease yourself down backwards, or dismount and push the bike up (hopefully with some help from a buddy).

In mud or loose sand, you may be tempted to crack the throttle -- the faster the wheel spins the faster I'll go, right? Wrong. Spin too much and you lose traction. If you get stuck, you can try a little throttle -- but if you start spinning the tire, stop... otherwise you'll just dig the tire deeper.

Crossing water is basically dangerous. If the water is murky or deep you can't see what you're riding over. Even shallow, narrow streams can have rocks covered with slippery algae, loose gravel, or tire gripping muck. Take it carefully.

Other riders can be an obstacle too. Don't follow too closely. Always assume they're about to crash and figure out if you have enough room to stop. Also, remember, another rider may be coming down the same trail in the opposite direction.

2007-07-10T13:42:00.000-05:00

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Riding Gear Tips and Advice
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HELMETS

Helmet. Helmet. Helmet. If you only have one piece of safety equipment, make it a helmet. The speed is never too slow or the ground too smooth to wear one.

Helmets don’t have to be uncomfortable. Try out different models from different manufacturers. The better it fits, the more you’ll wear it – and because the padding will eventually conform to your head, the more you wear it, the better it’ll fit.

Get a full face helmet. You may not think you need one – right until a stump or hole helps introduce your chin to the handlebar.

Visors on helmets aren’t there to make them look cool. The first time you ride off into the sunset (or any time the sun is low in the sky); it’ll help keep a lot of glare off your goggles.

I prefer a helmet visor with plastic screws holding it in. If a bad fall rips off the visor, there’s less damage to the helmet.

There's a quick and easy explanation for sizing helmets at the AFX Helmets website!

GOGGLES

If you ride clear trails all by yourself, you might be able to get away without goggles, but if someone ahead of you is throwing up debris, or you’re cruising through the bush, protect those eyes – buy goggles.

If you have to choose between cheap goggles or no goggles, get the cheap ones – you only have two eyes so do what you can to protect them. Otherwise, it pays to get the best you can.

Comfort counts. Like any piece of safety equipment, the better it feels, the more you’ll use it.

Make sure they’re vented – otherwise they’ll fog up in no time.

GLOVES

Nothing can turn you off dirt bike riding faster than having a bunch of gravel ground into your knuckles. If you don’t have the cash for real riding gloves, get a pair of snug-fitting work gloves.

When my kids started out on dirt bikes, we picked up BMX gloves. Plenty of protection for the kind of riding they were doing. Don’t get the kind with only have the finger covered, go for full protection.

Good gloves will be tough but flexible.

Check to see if the gloves will breathe (usually some kind of mesh).

BOOTS

Yipes! Dirt bike boots are expensive! If you’re racing, they’re a must have. If you’re trail riding or ditch-banging, you can get away with a good pair of work boots or hiking boots. Get something comfortable and flexible, but with good ankle support. The boot should go above the ankle… those hiking/work SHOES seem like a good compromise until you smack your ankle bone against a stump or the kick start.

Any boot you wear should have a heel. It makes kick starting and staying on the pegs a lot easier.

CHEST PROTECTORS

Honestly? I know very few trail riders that wear chest protectors… but just about every motocross racer I know wears one. I can sure understand that extra peace of mind and protection they offer in a crash. A chest protector can only take care of you if it stays in place. When you’re trying them on for comfort, make sure you get one that won’t move during a crash.

If you’re investing money in a chest protector make sure it has full torso, back, shoulder, elbow, and kidney protection.

NECK ROLLS

Neck rolls are labeled essential by some riders, and unnecessary by others – they’re designed to protect against common neck and collarbone injuries.

The extra weight of a helmet may be too much for a child’s head in a crash since their neck muscles are still forming – neck rolls can add some extra support.

KNEE PROTECTION – KNEE BRACES

Every now and then a stump is going to leap out of the bush and head straight for your knee – whether it hits your knee cap or some knee protection is up to you. And with the intensity of riding you’ll find in motocross, knee protection is a must have.

Knee pads are second best. Better than nothing, but not as good as a knee brace.

There’s a big variety of knee braces out there, and the features and materials keep changing. Check reviews in your favorite dirt bike magazine, or online, and check with your riding friends. Then get the best you can afford.

SHIRT, PANTS, LEATHERS

At the very least, wear a long sleeve shirt and long pants. The only person who thinks you look cool riding in shorts and a tank top is you.

Obviously full motocross gear is ideal – but something most of us have to save up for.

Just a note: leathers don’t make you ride better. More than once, I’ve watched a guy in jeans and long-sleeve dirt bike jersey blow away a pack of fully-rigged riders.

2007-07-09T15:03:00.000-05:00

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Wheelies
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Wheelies on a dirt bike are for more than just showing off – getting that front wheel off the ground can be a vital skill out on the trail.

If it feels like you’re about to end up on your back staring at the sky, tap the rear brake to bring front back down.

Stand up wheelies look great and will make you a versatile trail rider, but master them sitting down first.

Rely on the throttle and clutch to get you up. Hauling back on the handlebars is a good way to get BOTH wheels pointing at the sky, if you know what I mean.

Start out in the throttle mid-range and you’ll have a little more control than trying do a wheelie from an idle throttle. Once you get the hang of it, then you can start getting the wheel up at any speed.

Remember, your dirt bike wasn’t designed to roll along with one wheel in the air – so be prepared to practice… a lot.

2007-07-09T07:00:00.009-05:00

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Dirt Bike Humor and Jokes
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I finally got around to reorganizing all the dirt bike and motocross jokes, funny sayings, and quotes -- and I added a lot more stuff as well.

It's now all on one page RIGHT HERE.

Take care and ride hard!

2007-07-06T13:33:00.000-05:00

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Dirt Bike Chain Tips
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The top tip for your dirt bike chain? Don’t ignore it. Think about all strain it takes and, if that doesn’t help you maintain it, think about how much a new one costs.

Keep the dirt off and the lube in. After every day of riding, place a rag in the palm of your hand, grab the chain with it, the spin the back tire with the other hand to pull the chain through the rag.

A dry chain is a happy chain. If you’ve been riding in wet conditions or just hosed off your dirt bike, dry the chain off and apply some lube. I always take it for a quick spin right away to work the lube in and the water out.

Check the tension, often. The rule of thumb is about 3/4-inch free play.

Check your manual and adjust the chain the way they tell you – most often with the swing arm horizontal. Then set your bike on the stand, kickstand or leaning against your truck -- the way you’ll usually find it between rides – find a convenient measuring spot (for example, one thumb width between the chain and swing arm, right under that sticker). That way you can quickly check between rides.

Make sure you still have the lock nuts on the tension adjusters.

When you spray on the lube, apply it to the INSIDE of the chain. As you ride, centrifugal force will pull the lube into the chain. I put the bike up on a stand, turn the back tire with one hand, and spray the inside of the chain as it slides by.

Colored chain lubes make it a lot easier to see how much you put on, and where you did or didn’t get it.

Whenever time allows, I clean off the chain and lube it AFTER all my riding is done. One, it helps reduce the amount of moisture and rust in the chain and, two, it’s one less thing I have to do when I’m in the mood to ride.

2007-07-03T14:17:00.000-05:00

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Taking Turns and Making Corners
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GENERAL CORNERING

As you look, so shall you steer! Looking where you want to go sounds easy, but way too often, you’ll focus on the bike that crashed in front of you, that rut you don’t want to be in, or that stump you want to avoid. Guess where you end up? Look at where you want to be, not where you don’t want to be.

Keep your body movements as smooth as possible. Quick jerky moves quickly put you off your bike.

Look ahead as far as you can. Pick your line before you get there and know where you’ll follow through.

Get your braking done before you hit the turn – you want to avoid hitting the brakes while you’re leaning.

Keep your throttle steady during the turn.

Keep your weight on the inside peg to begin the turn, then shift to the outside peg to counterbalance during the turn.

Stay loose – you have to guide the bike, not fight it. The bike may want to wander during the turn and if you’re tense you’re more likely to put the bike down or get thrown.

If you’re moving fast, the bike can drift a little. Don’t try to avoid the drift – you’re better off trying to anticipate it and use it. If the drift is unexpected, stay loose and correct for it.

Don’t wait until you’re out of the turn to accelerate. Start throttling up about halfway through and tease the clutch to control your traction.

As you finish the turn, remember you have more track ahead of you. Nailing the turn doesn’t do you a whole lot of good if you face plant on the next jump or turn.

When you’re accelerating out of the turn, it can help to shift your weight backwards on the seat a little to put more weight on the back wheel and gain some extra traction.

SMOOTH CORNERS

As you finish braking for the corner slide forward, seated, with your inside leg out towards the front wheel. Get up on the corner of the seat so that as the bike is leans for the turn your body is still vertical. Lean hard on the outside peg, to counter-balance the bike and improve traction.

After passing the midpoint of the corner you should be accelerating enough so that both wheels are just starting to drift. Easy does it though – you want to avoid having that rear wheel slide too far.

Straighten the bike up as you come out of the corner to get better traction and increase speed.

ROUGH CORNERS

Blazing up on a corner full of ruts freaks out a lot of riders – so mastering them can give you a real edge and lots of confidence.

Brake before reaching the corner, and enter the rut with your weight forward, your elbows up and your head over the handlebars.

Keep your weight on the outside peg during the turn.

Here’s the unnatural part for most riders -- let the rut to steer the bike. Stay loose and ride the bike… don’t fight it.

Begin accelerating as you pass the midpoint of the turn.

Practice. Practice. Practice. Start slow and steady until the technique becomes second nature, then start increasing the speed of your passes through the turn.

BERMED CORNERS

First of all, just because a berm is there, it doesn’t mean you have to use it. Sometime you can find a faster line through the turn by avoiding the berm.

A wide berm (lots of distance between the berm and the inside of the track) often means a slightly slower but shorter turn on the inside is actually quicker than a faster pace on the berm.

The steeper the berm, the more you can lean the bike into it, and the faster you can get through the turn.

When you can, start the turn higher on the berm and drive your way down to the bottom as you come out. Think smooth and flowing.