tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-86485659909303507932024-02-19T02:05:33.408-06:00Dirt Bike BloggerWorking to be the top source of dirt bike and motocross racing tips, maintenance advice, funny quotes, and articles on dirt riding things like buying a used dirt bike, how to do a wheelie, and everything else for the mentally-motarded.allanGEEhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09551294307911804448noreply@blogger.comBlogger53125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8648565990930350793.post-73476554421496964732011-02-22T13:18:00.002-06:002019-02-27T13:25:58.101-06:00Winter Riding - Your Dirt BikeAs soon as the first major snowfall hit, I'd pack away my dirt bikes along the side of the garage wall and have to look at them daily as I waited for spring. Once I realized a few die-hard dirt bike riders were still at it in the winter, I started looking into it. Other than dressing warm -- which I mentioned in a <a href="http://dirtbikeblogger.blogspot.com/2011/01/winter-riding-clothing.html"><b>previous article</b></a> – your dirt bike is the biggest consideration. Those knobbies may be great in the dirt – but not as much help on ice or 3-foot drifts. <br />
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The <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s/?_encoding=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&field-keywords=trelleborg%20studded&linkCode=ur2&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Atrelleborg%20studded&tag=dirtbikeblogger-20&url=search-alias%3Daps&linkId=JJK7I55CGARD46PJ" target="_blank"><b>prime tire for winter riding</b></a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=dirtbikeblogger-20&l=ur2&o=1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /> – if you can afford it – is one with the spikes permanently installed. If you can, get the carbide-tipped spikes – they'll last much longer, giving you more riding for your dirt bike buck. Speaking of price – it'll seem a little steep at first, but sit back and realize that they'll last for years, and then think about how much it's worth to get all that extra dirt bike time.<br />
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If you just can't afford the ready-made tires for riding in the snow, or on ice, you still have a homemade option. Visit your local hardware store or building centre and pick up a bag of hex-head metal screws. If you're okay with spending a little bit more, check your local dirt bike shop, or online, for <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s/?_encoding=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&field-keywords=tire%20traction%20screws&linkCode=ur2&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Atire%20traction%20screws&tag=dirtbikeblogger-20&url=search-alias%3Daps&linkId=WN2K4WXML6QMHZQA" target="_blank"><b>ice riding screws or tire traction screws</b></a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=dirtbikeblogger-20&l=ur2&o=1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" />. As I mentioned, they're a little more expensive than the hardware store option, but tend to stay in the tire longer and grip a little better.<br />
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<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008N6AQXO/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B008N6AQXO&linkCode=as2&tag=dirtbikeblogger-20&linkId=GACGRLXBT5N3P3TX" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://ws-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/q?_encoding=UTF8&ASIN=B008N6AQXO&Format=_SL250_&ID=AsinImage&MarketPlace=US&ServiceVersion=20070822&WS=1&tag=dirtbikeblogger-20"></a>When you're making your own set of winter or ice tires for your dirt bike, it's going to feel a little strange screwing a sharp object into your tire on purpose. Ideally, you want to install as long a screw as possible so it stays put... but not so long that it punctures your inner tube. If you can, use newer or brand new tires since the knobs will be taller/thicker and try not to use screws shorter than half an inch.<br />
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If riding your dirt bike in the snow turns out to be a regular and frequent event, keep your eyes open for an extra set of rims for your machine. If you have your winter tires pre-mounted on rims, swapping tires can be done in less than an hour.<br />
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If you're going to ride your dirt bike in the snow for more than a few minutes, you'll want to install a shield or protector for the carburetor – otherwise your carb will ice up, and your dirt bike's performance will suffer. If you look around long enough, you can find commercially made shields for some bike models, but a homemade solution is fairly easy to come by. I've seen protectors made from cutting plastic bottles or milk jugs to shape... inner tube pieces zip-tied to the carburetor... and a modified hand guard complete with its own mounting screws. Avoid using any kind of tape to hold the shield in place – it'll often lose its grip in cold and/or wet conditions, and any fuel and oil drips will loosen up the adhesive. The carb area is also an awkward place to clean tape goop out of.</div>
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Also, depending on your bike and the day's conditions, keep an eye on your air box to make sure you're not sucking in snow and plugging it up.<br />
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I mentioned heated grips in the clothing article, but forgot another quick tip. If you have access to the right size <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s/?_encoding=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&field-keywords=shrink%20tubing&linkCode=ur2&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Ashrink%20tubing&tag=dirtbikeblogger-20&url=search-alias%3Daps&linkId=RPG6KVWVLURJZEWZ" target="_blank"><b>shrink tubing</b></a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=dirtbikeblogger-20&l=ur2&o=1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" />, put some on your clutch and brake levers. A double-layer is even better if you can manage it. This will help insulate your fingers from the heat-sucking metal on the levers. In the summer, if the shrink tubing bothers you, it's easily removed with one slit along the length of the lever. A few layers of electrical tape can help if you don't use the shrink tubing, but it's harder and messier to remove in the spring.</div>
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</script><div class="blogger-post-footer">Funny dirt bike quotes and motocross sayings and motorcycle jokes along with riding tips and maintenance advice</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8648565990930350793.post-12530625732053806932011-01-21T11:09:00.000-06:002019-02-27T13:26:50.060-06:00Winter Riding - ClothingOkay, there's never an ideal time of year to post an article about winter dirt bike riding because of the timing of the different seasons and the many of you who live in snow-free areas. But for those of you who want to ride your dirt bike in the snow sooner or later, here are some tips and thoughts.<br />
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First of all, why take a dirt bike out in the snow at all? Because... if you live in a four-season part of the world, winter is too long a time to not be riding.<br />
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Before we consider the dirt bike itself, let's look at some other snow riding considerations.<br />
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To me, the most important thing is keeping warm. If I'm not warm, I'm not having fun. Period.<br />
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You CAN get specialized dirt bike or motocross gear for riding in the snow, but it WILL cost you. On the other hand, a good set of thermal underwear (pants and top) and layered clothing can keep you just as warm for a lot less. If you have an old snowmobile suit, or insulated overalls/coveralls, that can work as well. I say “old” snowmobile suit, because you run the chance of tearing or shredding it on the bike, frozen shrubs, rough ice, etc.<br />
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Overall, you're going to want enough clothing to keep you warm, but still allow movement. How much movement you need will depend on your riding style and where you're riding. An 8-foot wide track you've packed and flattened is a lot different than a snow-covered trail through the woods.<br />
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If you can afford it, an extra pair of riding boots, a size or two bigger than you need, allows room for thermal or wool socks. Depending on the specific product, you may also be able to fit battery heated socks into your regular boots. Like any winter footwear, if your toes are packed in too tight and can't wiggle a little, they're going to freeze up on you. If your riding boots have removable liners, try taking them out and wearing an extra pair or two of socks. If at all possible, the pants you're wearing (at least the outermost layer) should fit OVER your boots to keep out snow.<br />
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Body... feet... now hands. A good set of gloves is an obvious place to start. The trick is to get enough insulation without affecting your ability to work the clutch and brake. As always, temperature is a factor. Where I live we can get calm, sunny days just below the freezing point where regular riding gloves are good for a half hour or more. When it hits 40 below with a strong wind, almost nothing is going to work.<br />
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Manufacturers like MSR, Moose, and others have soft hand guards that offer increased protection, and even guards that cover your entire hand. They may not look tough, but they work. If you want to get real fancy schmancy, you can install grip heaters. Riding a dirt bike in winter is awesome, but I don't do it often enough to justify that cost.<br />
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For head gear, I still fully endorse wearing a helmet and goggles. Ice can be hard as rock. Frozen trees even harder. And the metal on your dirt bike is still there, snow or no snow, so wear a helmet. If you go to where they sell snowmobiling supplies, you can get thin head coverings (they cover everything but the face) that offer a surprisingly warm extra layer, without affecting the fit of your helmet. In addition, most of them fit well down the neck to keep any cold drafts out between your jacket collar and helmet. Full face versions are also available with eye openings, and sometimes nose and/or mouth openings. I find these collect too much moisture from breathing, which then freezes in the helmet, so I have an open face style. But I also know people who love the full-face versions – so maybe I just breathe strangely.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZlcK4F32XbLIW5kbZWZUlUDMFHORB4JCdXf7zDR2ySuFMNr9AQAtKy3XffKTI-OlQM_ro9FwjlegMX7Ocnpk2e8aDVo6dbGkPyLApXyAhEy4Ye4KRdcjAtaNi6ssAW7gvbmznV5tcxcc/s1600/dirtbikesnow.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5564686644696626434" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZlcK4F32XbLIW5kbZWZUlUDMFHORB4JCdXf7zDR2ySuFMNr9AQAtKy3XffKTI-OlQM_ro9FwjlegMX7Ocnpk2e8aDVo6dbGkPyLApXyAhEy4Ye4KRdcjAtaNi6ssAW7gvbmznV5tcxcc/s400/dirtbikesnow.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 317px; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; width: 347px;" /></a><br />
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Goggles protect your eyes the same way they do in summer, but in winter they also keep freezing breezes out. Fogging goggles can be a problem. The easiest way to avoid fogging is to avoid sweating, because as soon as you introduce moisture into the goggles (from your skin) it'll be attracted to the cold lens. Dressing in layers helps you moderate your body temperature between riding and other activities.<br />
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You can also purchase cold-weather goggles with a built-in anti-fogging coating (don't wipe the inside of the lens if you can avoid it – you'll wear off the coating). Spray-on and wipe-on anti-fog coatings are also available, as are dual lens and even heated goggles.<br />
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One final tip. Take a bathroom break BEFORE you get all bundled up.<br />
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I'll try to get together some information on setting up your dirt bike for riding in the snow and post it soon. If you want to know about the post as soon as it hits, you can subscribe to my Twitter. If you do, I won't be telling you about my feelings or what I had for lunch... just dirt bike stuff.<br />
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Take care!<div class="blogger-post-footer">Funny dirt bike quotes and motocross sayings and motorcycle jokes along with riding tips and maintenance advice</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8648565990930350793.post-18561266056402413512010-12-30T12:49:00.008-06:002019-02-27T13:33:06.231-06:00Transporting and LoadingUnless you have a motocross track in your backyard, or a dirt bike trail within spitting distance, you have to transport your motorcycle every time you want to ride. The options for transporting dirt bikes are many, and depend on how many motorcycles you need to move, and what kind of vehicles you have access to.<br />
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This is a quick look at some of your transport options, and some tips for making the whole process easier on you and your equipment.<br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">TRANSPORT IN OR ON A VEHICLE</span></h3>
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Typically, a dirt bike transport vehicle would be a pickup. Back in the good old days, when truck boxes were big enough to carry a 4x8 sheet of plywood with the tailgate closed, you could pack a lot of dirt bikes and motocross equipment onto one. Today, the cabs are bigger and the boxes are smaller, so you can usually carry more riders than bikes.<br />
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The biggest challenges with pickups are the size of the box, and the height. To address the size issue, you're going to have to limit the number of motorcycles you transport. The number of motorcycles will depend on their size. I used to transport a 100cc, a 90cc, and a 50cc in a smaller half-ton with little problem. The tough part was finding enough room to transport all the gear I needed to take along as well. One option is to leave the tailgate down and keep things in the box with a cargo net, straps, or a home-made barrier.<br />
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If you prefer to have the tailgate closed but your dirt bike is just a couple inches too long – secure the front wheel at the front, on one side of the box, and then shift the rear wheel towards the other side until you have enough room to close the gate.<br />
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And that leads to strapping dow<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1KxgH317kih35MX-VWVtWMZlGNpDG5Gdt-lzmYaW6i7PjKbbumdSfxX7_rlmHdflHTTaHjVPBIrbs09jHWwuN8xQVz46AX8TvlFGGEmmUMtQ_k7Q4o2e7C71fEFq6zpqT1UH6-48vn-s/s1600/DB+tiedown+01.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5556551278350231362" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1KxgH317kih35MX-VWVtWMZlGNpDG5Gdt-lzmYaW6i7PjKbbumdSfxX7_rlmHdflHTTaHjVPBIrbs09jHWwuN8xQVz46AX8TvlFGGEmmUMtQ_k7Q4o2e7C71fEFq6zpqT1UH6-48vn-s/s400/DB+tiedown+01.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 300px; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; width: 400px;" /></a>n the motorcycle itself when transporting. The tried and true method is to bring the front tire up against the front of the box, and then use tie downs from each side of the handlebars to the box. Hopefully your box has tie-down points. If not you'll have to add some. You can <b><span style="color: blue;"><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0026FCGF4/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0026FCGF4&linkCode=as2&tag=dirtbikeblogger-20&linkId=TNDNMQ2WLXX5BZTG">buy awesome tie down tracks like these</a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=dirtbikeblogger-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B0026FCGF4" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" />
</span></b>or use some cheap eye-bolts and a few nuts and washers. Just make sure you anchor your tie-down securely. When you tie down the bike, compress the front forks. The resulting tension will keep everything in place during transport. If you're traveling for more than a day, release the straps enough to take the tension off of the forks when you're not traveling, then re-tighten when you hit the road. I prefer the simple cam tie-downs that you pull to tighten and press the small lever to release. Ropes are too much work for me, and the ratchet tie downs strike me as overkill. Mind you, if I was transporting my dirt bikes on an open, flat trailer or truck, I'd probably <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007D2JVJ4/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B007D2JVJ4&linkCode=as2&tag=dirtbikeblogger-20&linkId=B2A4NDP6LUSS5I3X"><b>buy the ratchets for extra security</b></a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=dirtbikeblogger-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B007D2JVJ4" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" />
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If you ride enough, and don't use the truck to transport anything else very often, you can install wheel chocks or brackets. Usually, these are just for the front wheels. <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s/?_encoding=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&field-keywords=motorcycle%20wheel%20chock&linkCode=ur2&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Amotorcycle%20wheel%20chock&tag=dirtbikeblogger-20&url=search-alias%3Daps&linkId=UR63X5POD4EUUBLY" target="_blank"><b>You can choose from a number of style with different options.</b></a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=dirtbikeblogger-20&l=ur2&o=1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /> From a simple channel to keep your front wheel from moving sideways, to locking mechanism that (technically) keeps the motorcycle from rolling as well. No matter how fancy the wheel bracket, I would still use tie-downs to A) help reduce shaking/vibration, and B) keep the bike in the truck if the wheel chock should fail.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6T2GL7OlK3QtE4rbObs8bTyKXBy_yY2i97WSo9bj_j0WPon-9sP9N6kkHRnpF5R6Sk1eVVE2QyJGdaEXzkuRPrzm5TAV6KAnGjLVMIQnN1OKgANqtpclPhDHbD8Fi37XU_TDxfE-bkUs/s1600/DB+chock+01.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5556551634975494802" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6T2GL7OlK3QtE4rbObs8bTyKXBy_yY2i97WSo9bj_j0WPon-9sP9N6kkHRnpF5R6Sk1eVVE2QyJGdaEXzkuRPrzm5TAV6KAnGjLVMIQnN1OKgANqtpclPhDHbD8Fi37XU_TDxfE-bkUs/s400/DB+chock+01.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 245px; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; width: 335px;" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcGobDHpKlh1PTa26hsQERBxVw5qN09NAOYC4zYHsjrp9q_G-KyWWqgo8Xapama6ThbJ8neytlzJgo4xuqUc_RzLdE4IqAvnWzdwBylLXKDltXx1qIUOB-K6pRkhFvuMP1jrYxVytoTzM/s1600/DB+Chock+02.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5556551930731777090" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcGobDHpKlh1PTa26hsQERBxVw5qN09NAOYC4zYHsjrp9q_G-KyWWqgo8Xapama6ThbJ8neytlzJgo4xuqUc_RzLdE4IqAvnWzdwBylLXKDltXx1qIUOB-K6pRkhFvuMP1jrYxVytoTzM/s400/DB+Chock+02.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; float: right; height: 242px; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; width: 326px;" /></a><br />
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Of, course, before you can transport it, you have to get the dirt bike UP into the back of the truck. You have four options that I'm aware of. Ride, push, pull, or lift. If you have the skill and the nerve, you can ride your dirt bike up a ramp, into the truck. I've done it a number of times, but really feel nervous every time. If you're a trials rider, no worries – you can probably ride it in WITHOUT the ramp.<br />
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If you're going to push your bike into the back of your truck for transport, seriously consider getting two ramps – one for the motorcycle, and one for your feet. Remember, the bigger the dirt bike, and the higher the truck, the more of a running start you're going to need to get the motorcycle all the way up. Getting 3/4's up the ramp and having to back down sucks. If you can, park the truck in a low spot, like a ditch, and put the end of the ramp on high ground. One area I ride in has a ditch that lets me put my ramps out almost level.<br />
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Also, try and have some kind of grip surface on the ramp – remember, you may be trying to maneuver a heavy bike, up a narrow strip, with wet and muddy boots and tires. Metal ramps usually come with a rough or studded finish. If your ramp is made of wood, you can add expanded steel mesh.<br />
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Here's a selection of <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s/?_encoding=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&field-keywords=aluminum%20truck%20ramps&linkCode=ur2&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Aaluminum%20truck%20ramps&tag=dirtbikeblogger-20&url=search-alias%3Daps&linkId=JVH4AYIR76WUAYMG" target="_blank"><b>aluminum truck ramps</b></a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=dirtbikeblogger-20&l=ur2&o=1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /> if you're looking for ease-of-use and looking slick at the track.<br />
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Pulling either requires a second person in the truck box pulling on a rope or strap tied to your handlebars, or a winch with a remote. To me, a winch to haul in your dirt bike seems like money better spent ON a dirt bike, but it's up to you.<br />
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The final option is manhandling your bike up into the box. If you're messing around with pit bikes, no problem. A 450? You better have a couple of real loyal friends with you.<br />
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Other transport vehicle options include cargo vans, or minivans with the back seats taken out. The positives include better protection for your dirt bike and a lower deck to load onto... negatives include a pervading gasoline smell that induces hallucinations or naps while driving.<br />
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<h3>
<span style="font-weight: bold;">TRANSPORTING ON TRAILERS</span></h3>
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Another common motorcycle transport solution is a trailer. Again, you have some choices. A lot of dirt bikers are also snowmobilers, so they use their snowmobile trailer in summer. This requires adding some wheel chocks or a barrier at the front to put the front wheels against. Fastening is the same as for truck boxes as described above. Since this type of trailer has no sides, I'd also recommend something to keep the back end of your dirt bike(s) from moving around as you go over bumps. You can screw down blocks of wood for the season, spaced for the rear wheel to sit between, or use additional straps or ropes at the back of your bikes.<br />
<br />
If you have a trailer with sides, simply treat it like a truck box. My favorite trailer for transporting a motorcycle is the landscape type. It sits fairly low, can carry three small to mid-size bikes, a little bit of gear, and they usually have a combination rear gate/ramp. During the summer, I back the entire trailer into my garage, loosen up the straps, and then I'm ready to go riding next time with only about 15 minutes of prep.<br />
<br />
If you're using a trailer to transport a motorcycle or two, <u><b>always</b></u> make sure you have it locked securely to the hitch and – if your hitch isn't welded on – make sure the hitch is locked securely to your vehicle. I've heard about a trailer with two motorcycles being slipped out of it's “Hidden Hitch” receiver, trailer and hitch, and slipped into another vehicle's receiver and driven off... all because they saved $20 by not <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AVSIOI/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B001AVSIOI&linkCode=as2&tag=dirtbikeblogger-20&linkId=AIMFTYDGROYK7YFD"><b><span style="color: blue;">buying a locking hitch pin</span></b></a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=dirtbikeblogger-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B001AVSIOI" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" />
like the one below.<br />
<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AVSIOI/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B001AVSIOI&linkCode=as2&tag=dirtbikeblogger-20&linkId=AIMFTYDGROYK7YFD"><img border="0" src="https://ws-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/q?_encoding=UTF8&ASIN=B001AVSIOI&Format=_SL160_&ID=AsinImage&MarketPlace=US&ServiceVersion=20070822&WS=1&tag=dirtbikeblogger-20" /></a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=dirtbikeblogger-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B001AVSIOI" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" />
<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;"><br /></span>
<br />
<h3>
<span style="font-weight: bold;">MOTORCYCLE TRANSPORT RACKS CARRIERS</span></h3>
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<br />
If you only have one dirt bike to transport, a rack on the rear of your vehicle is a great solution. Most of these<span style="background-color: white;"><b><span style="color: blue;"> <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s/?_encoding=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&field-keywords=dirt%20bike%20carrier&linkCode=ur2&sprefix=dirt%20bike%20ca%2Caps&tag=dirtbikeblogger-20&url=search-alias%3Daps&linkId=T3O7CT6J4BPREKTL" target="_blank">awesome dirt bike carriers</a></span></b></span><img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=dirtbikeblogger-20&l=ur2&o=1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /> mount to your vehicle using the existing receiver. Typically, you hook on the ramp supplied with the rack, roll your dirt bike onto the carrier, and then strap it down for transport. Better models let you store the ramp on the carrier itself, instead of your trunk or on the floor. Before you buy a carrier one, double-check the weight rating against the weight of your bike and load capacity of your vehicle. If your vehicle has a light duty suspension, you MAY have beef up the suspension to install the rack. For a quick and cheap test, calculate the weight of your bike and carrier, and load up the back of your vehicle with an equivalent amount of weight (bodybuilding weights, bricks, whatever). <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB5Y55luS8YnGubVafgdE_nhxjzw4AtDf-N72vjdIoGijVYWXhGdiVal_rHYu0DPpnhTZYzq2PeqaD2QgPO1gCoV058QUJWgk0tURDkhqNgtoTEPUZlc9zs3BDu0NA4GDKKtS9Q16WzrI/s1600/DB+Rack+01.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5556552770185385426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB5Y55luS8YnGubVafgdE_nhxjzw4AtDf-N72vjdIoGijVYWXhGdiVal_rHYu0DPpnhTZYzq2PeqaD2QgPO1gCoV058QUJWgk0tURDkhqNgtoTEPUZlc9zs3BDu0NA4GDKKtS9Q16WzrI/s400/DB+Rack+01.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 360px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a>Here's a link to a guy that built his own. <a href="http://www.kenshack.net/Dirt%20Bike%20Carrier.htm" target="_blank">Dirt Bike Carrier</a>.<br />
<br />
To wrap it up, remember how much money you have invested in your bike, and transport it with all the care and caution it deserves.<div class="blogger-post-footer">Funny dirt bike quotes and motocross sayings and motorcycle jokes along with riding tips and maintenance advice</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8648565990930350793.post-42560438776513144682010-12-10T11:40:00.004-06:002019-02-27T13:35:15.090-06:00Electric Dirt BikesI realize that soon as I post this, it'll probably be outdated because the electric dirt bike industry is moving ahead in leaps and bounds – but for what it's worth...<br />
<br />
Like it or not, the environmental movement is impacting the dirt bike world. The biggest criticisms leveled at dirt bike riders (and, to a smaller extent, motocross enthusiasts) are... 1) we're burning fossil fuels and contributing to global warming that may or may not exist and may or may not be affected by humans... 2) we're apparently contributing to the destruction of forests by riding through them... and 3) we're creating a whole lot of noise pollution.<br />
In my personal opinion, the alarmists have exaggerated the problems created by dirt bikes, but the media loves to latch onto worst-case scenarios.<br />
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The solution for dirt bike riders may very well be an electric one. An electric dirt bike immediately solves two of the problems mentioned above. They don't burn fuel, and they're almost completely silent (imagine riding and only hearing the chain going over the sprocket!).<br />
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Up until a few years ago, the only electric dirt bikes were home-built franken-bikes mashed up from whatever motor and batteries could be found. Today, things are a whole lot different.<br />
I haven't had the opportunity of riding an electric dirt bike myself, but the stuff I'm seeing and reading about looks VERY promising. I'm not endorsing any particular electric dirt bike at this point, but if you want to see where one company is at already, check out Zero Motorcycles.<br />
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From what I understand, their current electric dirt bikes will run for about 2 hours on a charge but the batteries are easy to swap in and out – so I imagine most riders would want a second battery pack.<br />
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The two biggest obstacles to mainstreaming electric dirt bikes are cost and tradition. Cost is going to keep going down though. When you take operating costs into account, you could already argue that electric dirt bikes are comparable to their gas-drinking counterparts. I also have a prediction – once the independent developers start selling enough electric dirt bikes to prove there's a solid market for them – the big boys are going to step in and the price will drop even more due to their mass manufacturing abilities and competition.<br />
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Tradition and momentum will be a bigger challenge. Say what you want, but perception is reality – and a motor rumbling and roaring makes a dirt bike feel more powerful than a silent hum or whir. But put your emotions aside for a moment and consider this. <span style="color: rgb(255 , 255 , 0); font-weight: bold;">Electric motors deliver smooth, predictable power and have huge torque available at ANY speed.</span> Your biggest problem will probably be keeping that front wheel on the ground when you twist the throttle. In fact, some electric bikes automatically deliver less power when starting from a standstill to keep you from ending up on your back looking up at the clouds. Plus, imagine never having to clean a carb, rebuild an engine, or repair a transmission.<br />
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I'm not much of an “early adopter” (I still don't own a cell phone) and I'd prefer to buy a dirt bike that lets me buy readily-available parts at the shop down the road – so it may be awhile before I dish out cash for an electric dirt bike. But I think we're going to see a big surge in development and available product. And again – I think it's just a matter of time before I can pick up my first Honda, Kawasaki, or Suzuki 250-E, or whatever.<br />
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<span style="color: rgb(255 , 255 , 0);">And just think of the possibilities when our dirt bikes are quiet enough to ride in a good-sized back yard without disturbing our neighbors! Count me in.</span><br />
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If you've had a chance to actually ride an electric dirt bike, I'd love to hear what you think.<div class="blogger-post-footer">Funny dirt bike quotes and motocross sayings and motorcycle jokes along with riding tips and maintenance advice</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8648565990930350793.post-11495067333010642010-08-25T10:58:00.001-05:002019-02-27T13:35:45.582-06:00Repacking a Muffler or SilencerDirt bike getting a little louder? Performance doesn't quite seem the way you remembered it? Chances are you need to repack your muffler (or silencer).<br />
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The way a dirt bike's muffler works is very simple, and so is repacking it. In a nutshell, your muffler is a large tube, with a narrower, perforated tube inside it. Between the two tubes is “soft stuff”, generally fiberglass. When fuel explodes in your piston, the sound and pressure wave travels down the exhaust to the muffler. The soft material absorbs a lot of the sound waves – it's the same science that allows movie gunmen to fire through a convenient pillow to muffle their shots. <br />
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In your dirt bike muffler, the fiberglass is assaulted by hot gases, moisture from condensation (and washing if you don't remember to plug the open end), and vibration. The spaces in the fiberglass get clogged up, and the material gets hard. Repacking the muffler simply means replacing the fiberglass.<br />
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First, check to see if you can get a repack kit for your specific dirt bike (if the muffler is OEM) or pipe (if it's after-market). A kit will have all the material you need and make the process a little easier. If a kit is unavailable, pick up some fiberglass packing from your local bike shop and at least as many rivets as your muffler already has holding the ends on.<br />
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And just because there's always one guy wondering... DON'T use fiberglass insulation meant for anything other than mufflers. It simply won't hold up.<br />
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Put on some long sleeves and have a pair of gloves handy. You'll be working with fiberglass and, even though the exposure is minor, the less you come in contact with it, the better. It actually wouldn't hurt to put on a dust mask either – again, better safe than sorry – because fiberglass dust and strands are easily airborne, and you don't want spun glass in your lungs if you can avoid it.<br />
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Remove the muffler from your dirt bike. On some bikes you'll be able to remove just the muffler, others will be easier if you take the whole assembly off.<br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">NOTE:</span> Some mufflers will use screws to hold everything together instead of rivets – FMF pipes for example. In this case, remove the screws and skip the part about rivets.<br />
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Using a small drill bit – the one provided in the kit, or one around 5-millimeters or 3/16-inch, give or take – carefully drill out the existing rivets holding the front or inlet end cap on. I can't cover every make and model of dirt bike or pipe, obviously, so use some common sense on the drill bit size. You want to drill out the shaft of the rivet, which is smaller than the head you can see. It's also a good idea to use a piece of masking tape to mark the end of your drill bit, so that you don't drill in too far – about 1 centimeter or 3/8-inch should do it.<br />
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Put on your glove and dust mask.<br />
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When the rivets are removed, you should be able to take off the inlet cap. It may pop right off, or it may be a tight friction fit. If it's tight, use some gentle persuasion with a plastic or wooden mallet. You can try a rubber mallet, but the mallets rounded edges will make it hard to connect with the edges of the cab. If you don't have a mallet, a chunk of lumber works. Use gentle taps and work your way around the cap.<br />
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When the cap is off, you should be able to carefully slide off the outer sleeve and packing material, leaving the inner sleeve attached to the inlet cap. <br />
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I haven't seen it, but I've heard that on some mufflers, the inner-sleeve is loose. If that's the case, you'll pack the fiberglass around the tube and insert the whole assembly into the outer sleeve.<br />
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Remove the old packing material, place it in a plastic garbage bag, and discard.<br />
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Gently clean the inner sleeve with a wire brush, and make sure all the openings or perforations are clear. <br />
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Now take your piece of new fiberglass packing and wrap it evenly around the inner sleeve. The packing should be just slightly wider than the diameter of the outer sleeve. It's okay if you have extra fiberglass left over. If you pack in too much, it'll actually decrease performance and increase the sound.<br />
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Now, rather than wrestle with loose ends and having wrap unwrapping when you don't want it to, put a strip of masking tape around the fiberglass at each end, and one in the middle. The masking tape will keep everything together for assembly, but burn off once you start riding.<br />
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Slip the outer sleeve back over the fiberglass and inner sleeve, and into the inlet cap. If you think the cap has too loose a fit, you can apply a thin bead of hight temperature silicon just before sliding everything together. Check to see if the silicon has a cure time, and don't run the bike before it's cured.<br />
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You can take off the gloves and mask now, if you want.<br />
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Make sure all the holes line up. Put the new rivets in.<br />
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Reinstall the muffler on your bike.<br />
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You're done.<br />
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<span style="font-style: italic;">As always though, I might have missed something, or you might have an awesome tip to add. Feel free to add any comments that'll help out all of us who ride.</span><div class="blogger-post-footer">Funny dirt bike quotes and motocross sayings and motorcycle jokes along with riding tips and maintenance advice</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8648565990930350793.post-30791725859856221132010-05-07T10:49:00.003-05:002019-02-27T13:36:23.984-06:00Wheels - Sharpening KnobsThe more you ride your dirt bike, the faster you're going to wear out the knobs on your tires. If you race competitively in motocross, replacing worn tires can quickly become a significant expense. Obviously, the best solution to a worn out dirt bike tire is a brand new tire, but I have a few thoughts and suggestions that may allow you to put off that purchase.<br />
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I'm mostly a weekend rider and enjoy some low-key riding with my younger sons – so a good tire can actually last quite a few seasons for me. That being said, I also like to go hard occasionally, on the track or on the trail; and every bit of traction counts. As well, I sometimes find a great deal on a used bike, often because the tires are worn (it makes the whole bike look more worn, so the seller usually has a lower price).<br /><script async src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script>
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<span style="font-size: 130%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Replace, Reverse, or Razor</span></span><br />
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So what are your options when the knobs start rounding off? A lot of riders will roll their entire dirt bike or just the wheels into the local bike shop and have new rubber mounted. Really expensive and more than I'm willing to spend. The not-quite-as-expensive option is to buy new rubber and change the tire yourself. This might take you a whole Saturday afternoon the first time, but it's certainly doable if you have some upper arm strength. You can read up on how to change a tire <a href="http://dirtbikeblogger.blogspot.com/2007/08/changing-tires.html" target="_blank">HERE</a>.<br />
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<span style="font-size: 130%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Does Your Dirt Bike Have a Reverse Gear?</span></span><br />
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I almost never ride my dirt bike in the direction my helmet's not pointing... and when I do, it's not on purpose. That means the tires are always spinning in the same direction and, more often than not, only one side of the knobbies are wearing down and rounding off. The solution here is to take the rubber tire off -- the same way you would to change it -- flip it, and re-install it facing the other direction.<br />
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<span style="font-size: 130%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Rubber Rejuvenation</span></span><br />
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Chances are real good that you still a have lot of rubber left on the tire... it's just that the corners are rounded off. The traditional solution is to clip a razor blade into a pair of locking pliers (Vise-Grips) and slice off enough of the knobby so that you end up with a sharp corner instead of the rounded one. The best way is to have your bike on a kickstand so that the back wheel is against the ground. That way you're not pinching the wheel between your legs while working with the razor. If you don't have a kickstand, support the bike any convenient way you can, as long as the wheel isn't spinning. Depending on how worn your tire is, you can probably sharpen your tire one to three times before you have to replace it.<br />
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Some guys speed up the process by using an angle grinder, but I recommend against that. It's way too easy to take way too much off the knobs and ruin the tire. The grinder also has a habit of grabbing and shooting off to the side.<br />
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<span style="font-size: 130%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">New Technology!</span></span><br />
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While looking for tire sharpening options, I stumbled on a tool called the KnobbyKnife. (Just to be clear, I'm not getting a free one for mentioning it, and I'm not getting paid commission or anything like that... just thought it would be something dirt bike owners would be interested in. If you have one or used one, your opinions or reviews are welcome as comments.)<br />
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The KnobbyKnife was invented by a guy named Mark out in Soddy Daisy, Tennessee. Like a lot of us, he realized that regular riding was wearing down his tires faster than he could afford to replace them... and, like a lot of us, he hated changing tires.<br />
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The difference between him and most of us is that while he sat there cutting his tires with a razor blade, he was thinking of a better way to do it. After a lot of trial and error, he came up with what he calls the KnobbyKnife. It's basically a sharp edge hooked up to a heat source and it lets you shave a controlled slice off the face of each knob.<br />
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I haven't tried one myself, but it looks as easy as slicing cheese. There's a demonstration video on his website <a href="http://www.knobbyknife.com/" target="_blank">www.KnobbyKnife.com</a>.<br />
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As always, if you have any tips or suggestions to add, I welcome your comments below.<div class="blogger-post-footer">Funny dirt bike quotes and motocross sayings and motorcycle jokes along with riding tips and maintenance advice</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8648565990930350793.post-6436683464951669672010-04-01T15:55:00.001-05:002019-02-27T13:38:46.587-06:00Brake MaintenanceI know that <a href="http://www.zazzle.com/throttle_solution_dirt_bike_motocross_t_shirt-235846722794957919" style="color: red;">Throttle is the Universal Solution</a> when you're out on a dirt bike or racing motocross, but every now and then a tree jumps into the trail you're riding... or you realize the crowd you're headed straight for isn't cheering, they're screaming. At those times, it's nice to know your dirt bike's brakes are going to work. So let's take a quick look at the kinds of brakes you'll find on a dirt bike, and what you can do to keep them working. <br />
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If you have an older bike, chances are it has drum brakes. On the outside you'll have a covered hub at the center of the wheel with a short arm that's usually connected to a rod for the rear brake, or a cable for the front. Your dirt bike might have drum brakes on both wheels, or just one. The drum is fixed to the wheel and on the inside there are two brake pads. When you activate the brake, the arm is pulled, which moves a cam on the inside, which presses the brake pads against the inside curve of the drum. When you release the brake, a set of springs in the drum, and a spring on the brake mechanism, will pull everything back to the open position.</div>
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Disc brakes have a disc/disk (go figure!) that is fixed to the wheel. The disc is also called a rotor. At one point on the disk, you'll see a mechanism straddling the edge of the disc. That mechanism has two brake pads, one on each side of the disc. When you activate the brake, those two pads “pinch” the disc between them. Instead of using a mechanical linkage or cable, disc brakes use hydraulic pressure. Your dirt bike's brake lever presses against the hydraulic fluid in the master cylinder. That pressure is transferred to pistons that press the pads against the disc. Thanks to the science of hydraulics, a little bit of pressure on the lever results in a LOT of pressure at the piston. </div>
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One challenge with hydraulic brake systems is that the standard plastic/rubber hoses will either stretch and/or swell, and/or flex when they're under pressure. The result is what you'll hear dirt bike riders refer to as mushy brakes – it's another way of saying you're not getting the precise control you want from your brakes. More expensive dirt bikes will use braided steel hoses (and occasionally solid lines) to eliminate or reduce mush. These are also available as after-market products if you want to upgrade your dirt bike's stopping ability.</div>
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Drum brakes and disc brakes both use brake pads. The trick with brake pads is you want them to have enough friction to slow down the dirt bike, but not so much that the slightest touch sends you over the handlebars. You also want them as durable as possible, but less durable than the drum or rotor/disc – because pads are cheaper and easier to replace than rotors and drums. As a result, there are a variety of brake pads for your dirt bike because different companies use different compounds to try and find the perfect balance of durability and performance. In the end, it's all going to boil down to a matter of personal preference and, as a rule of thumb, you get what you pay for.</div>
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<h3 style="font-weight: normal;">
<span style="font-size: 100%;">Drum Brake Maintenance</span></h3>
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The good news about dirt bike brakes is that they tend to keep working without putting a lot of effort into them. The bad news is if and when they do stop working, it's never at a good time (with the possible exception of when very irritating people are riding). So, even if the brakes are working, it pays to check on them regularly and spot problems BEFORE they become catastrophic.</div>
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No brake is maintenance-free, but drum brakes come close. The biggest thing you'll want to do with these is to keep them adjusted properly – a simple cable or linkage adjustment. As well, keep cables and linkages well lubricated.</div>
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At least once a season, you should crack open your dirt bike drum brakes and inspect the innards. If it's full of goop, gunk, or crud (sorry about the technical terms) you'll want to clean it. The easiest way is with a can of brake cleaner. Find a patch of ground you don't care too much about, and spray the sucker until it's gunk free. If you're an environmentalist and uncomfortable with getting brake cleaner on the ground, get a friend to do it while you close your eyes. Just kidding. You can do it over a bucket, and dispose of the residue in a responsible manner (like feeding it to random cats).</div>
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Inspect the brake pads. If they're worn and shiny on only a small portion, it means the brake pad, or shoe, is not contacting properly. I've never run into this problem, but I've been told you can sand the center of the shoe for a better fit. NOTE: A LOT OF BRAKE PADS CONTAIN ASBESTOS OR OTHER CARCINOGENS – WEAR A MASK IF SANDING OR BLOWING OUT DUST, ETC.</div>
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Check for broken or missing springs on the inside. If you're replacing the pads, it pays to replace the springs at the same time.</div>
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Other than that, make sure the moving parts are lubricated. Use waterproof grease and use it sparingly – you obviously don't want any making its way onto the pads or drum.</div>
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When you re-install the brake, apply it gently but firmly while tightening the axle nut. That'll help keep everything centered.</div>
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If you've decided to inspect your drum brakes because they don't brake well when they get wet, don't bother. The fact is, drum brakes are basically just for show once you've gone through a creek. The best remedy while riding is to ride the brake slightly to speed up evaporation of the water.</div>
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DISC BRAKE MAINTENANCE</div>
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As I mentioned earlier, disc brakes rely on hydraulic fluid. Generally speaking, the fluid that came with the bike will be fine – however, if you're a hard core dirt bike rider or frequent racer, your fluid can get hot enough to affect performance. High performance fluids are available. </div>
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The only things that are really going to affect your hydraulics are air and moisture. If your braking is starting to feel spongy, it's probably time to bleed it to get rid of air bubbles, or flush it completely to get rid of old (moisture-laded) fluid.</div>
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There are almost as many ways to bleed the brakes on dirt bikes as there are dirt bikes. If you think I missed something, or have an improvement to add, I welcome your comments.</div>
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Start with a couple of feet of clear tubing. Most home centers carry it in all sorts of sizes and sell it by the foot or meter (buy a few extra feet... the stuff comes in handy). At the halfway point, tie an overhand knot, but keep it loose.</div>
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Find the bleeder screw cap (you have a manual, right?). It should have a rubber cover or some sort of cap on it. Remove the cap and it'll look like a short metal tube with a hex fitting at the base. Find the correct wrench and loosen the bleeder slightly to get it moving, then snug it back down.</div>
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Place one end of your tubing onto the bleeder and the other end into a handy dandy receptacle – the back end of a random cat for example.</div>
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Open the bleeder again but keep the wrench and your wrenching hand handy. Slowly and evenly apply the brake and you'll see fluid moving through the tube and into the cat or other receptacle. When the fluid stops, generally when you've bottomed out the brake lever – KEEP THE BRAKE APPLIED – and tighten up the bleeder. Then you just keep repeating.</div>
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Check the fluid level in the reservoir every couple of pumps. If it gets too low you'll just introduce more air into the system.</div>
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You can either go until you think you've removed any air bubbles, or until you think you've cycled through all the old fluid. For the cost, I suggest going for the flush.</div>
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The one challenge in the whole process is that air bubbles want to rise up in a fluid. So trying to get an air bubble out your front brake line – which is mostly vertical – can be a pain. If regular bleeding doesn't get the air bubble out you can try a couple of things. One, get the brake assembly higher than the reservoir (disassembly required). Two, take the caliper off the disc/rotor, remove the reservoir cover, gently push the pads apart. This should push the fluid towards the reservoir, and hopefully take the bubble with it.</div>
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That's it for basic maintenance. I hope to get something together on rebuilding the master cylinder but I need to track down a rider or two with more experience on the subject. If you're one of those riders, and a decent writer, I'm open to guest posters. This site isn't about me and what I know... it's about riding and what ALL of us can learn. Drop me a line.</div>
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Take care, ride hard!</div>
<div class="blogger-post-footer">Funny dirt bike quotes and motocross sayings and motorcycle jokes along with riding tips and maintenance advice</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8648565990930350793.post-9095148567510785122010-02-04T16:58:00.001-06:002019-02-27T13:39:11.953-06:00Chain Replace<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Whether you're a weekend trail rider or hard-core motocross competitor, you're going to end up with worn out parts on your dirt bike. Even if you follow all the chain tips we've covered elsewhere, it will still stretch and wear. </div>
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S<span style="font-weight: normal;">ome of the stretching is physical deformation of the links, however most of it is not actual factual stretching, but wear. Most of the wear will be in the chain rollers. As they wear, each one will get a tiny bit of extra play in them. These tiny bits of play all add up to create what most of us call "stretch". </span><span style="font-weight: normal;">As the play between each roller gets bigger, your dirt bike's chain will start to ride higher on the sprocket teeth. The result is rounded or hooked teeth on your sprocket. Under normal circumstances, it pays to replace the chain and <a href="http://dirtbikeblogger.blogspot.com/2009/09/sprocket-replacement.html">sprockets</a> at the same time. The additional cost is minimal and prevents a bad sprocket from wrecking a new chain, and vice-versa.</span></div>
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Bear in mind that some chain stretching is normal. That's why you can adjust the rear wheel to sit further back, taking up some of the lack. But a chain breaking at speed has the potential to ball up at the case and cause some expensive damage.</div>
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You can tell if the chain is too far gone by supporting the chain in the middle (between the sprockets) with one hand, while using the other hand to try and pull the chain away from the rear sprocket. If the tension is adjusted as tight as it can go, and you can still pull the chain a quarter-inch or more from the sprocket, it's worn out.</div>
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Fortunately, replacing the chain and sprockets on a dirt bike is one of the easier maintenance jobs you can do on your own. This blog already has <a href="http://dirtbikeblogger.blogspot.com/2009/09/sprocket-replacement.html">an article on replacing sprockets</a>, so I'll mostly just cover the chain itself.</div>
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Start by removing the front chain guard and the front sprocket keeper. </div>
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Slip the chain off the front sprocket.</div>
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Once the chain is off the front sprocket, it's an easy matter to remove the rear wheel and remove it, along with the loop of chain.</div>
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Grab your new chain and reassemble everything in reverse order.</div>
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Yup. It's that easy.</div>
<div class="blogger-post-footer">Funny dirt bike quotes and motocross sayings and motorcycle jokes along with riding tips and maintenance advice</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8648565990930350793.post-60581660615939651152010-01-26T09:37:00.004-06:002010-01-26T09:44:02.749-06:00Valentine's Day CardSorry... a bit of shameless promotion. A Valentine's Day Card I designed. Turns out it can also be altered to be used for anniversaries, birthdays, what have you.<br /><br />Clicking it takes you the card. If you want to see a whack of dirt bike and motocross I've designed when I couldn't be out riding, <a href="http://www.zazzle.com/allangee*">click here</a>.<br /><br /><div style="text-align:center;line-height:150%"><a href="http://www.zazzle.ca/motocross_dirt_bike_valentines_day_card_funny-137864292884985643?rf=238242121811104960"><img src="http://rlv.zcache.com/motocross_dirt_bike_valentines_day_card_funny-p1378642928849856437l0q_500.jpg" alt="Motocross Dirt Bike Valentine's Day Card Funny card" style="border:0;" /></a><br /><a href="http://www.zazzle.ca/motocross_dirt_bike_valentines_day_card_funny-137864292884985643?rf=238242121811104960">Motocross Dirt Bike Valentine's Day Card Funny</a> by <a href="http://www.zazzle.ca/allangee*">allanGEE</a><br /> <a href="http://www.zazzle.ca/cards?rf=238242121811104960">cards</a> made on Zazzle</div><div class="blogger-post-footer">Funny dirt bike quotes and motocross sayings and motorcycle jokes along with riding tips and maintenance advice</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8648565990930350793.post-43340410357623647272010-01-22T16:03:00.002-06:002019-02-27T14:44:48.757-06:00Build A Track - ConstructionI discussed planning a motocross track for your dirt bike back in a previous article <a href="http://dirtbikeblogger.blogspot.com/2009/12/build-track-planning.html">(CLICK HERE)</a>. Now let's go over a few things to keep in mind when building a motocross track. <br />
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EQUIPMENT</div>
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Let's face it... if you have flat field and a shovel, you're not going to have 10-foot high jumps. No one wants to spend that much time shoveling. If that IS the case, take advantage of every bump and dip you can find.</div>
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For this article, I'll assume you have access to something that can push or lift a fair amount of dirt... maybe a farm tractor with a front-end loader, a skid steer, or even a quad with a snow clearing blade (just use it to lightly scrape the surface and push the results into a pile). If you have full-fledged excavating equipment, more power to ya!</div>
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MATERIAL</div>
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As I mentioned in the earlier article, you're going to need dirt to build a motocross track – probably a lot of it.</div>
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If you have a big enough piece of property, with the right soil conditions, you can just excavate all your dirt from one corner, or remove it from the side of a hill. Otherwise you need to get a little creative.</div>
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<span style="font-style: italic; font-weight: bold;">Creative option #1:</span> See if there's any clean fill nearby. Sometimes you get lucky and someone needs a place to dump dirt. Check with people digging basements, or contractors digging lots of basements, highway crews, and so on.</div>
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<span style="font-style: italic; font-weight: bold;">Creative option #2:</span> Build a pond. Pick a spot off to the side or in the middle of your track and excavate a hole with sloped sides. Use the excavated dirt to build your obstacles and the hole as a retention pond. The pond can also help you keep the track drained and dry, and provide a source of water for wetting and packing the track later. Bear in mind that once you start digging the hole, you'll need to finish the excavating before the next big rain, or have access to pumps to keep everything dry until you're done.</div>
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<span style="font-style: italic; font-weight: bold;">Creative option #3:</span> Stack and bury. Find what you can to take the place of dirt. I've seen a lot of tracks that have rocks, logs, culverts and even scrapped vehicles under every jump. Just place the item(s) where you want the jump and cover with a layer of dirt. In this case, pay attention to the side of the jumps to make sure there's no sharp object or hard debris poking through. It's bad enough if you crash your dirt bike on a jump... worse if you smack yourself up on some jagged scrap metal or exposed concrete.</div>
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A variation of this technique is to dig a hole, fill it with your logs, or scrapped cars, and then use the excavated dirt on top. If the track is being built in a treed area, logs work really well. Cut them in six to eight foot lengths and lay them perpendicular to the track. Then stack the to get the rough height and shape you want. When you cover them with soil, they'll eventually rot and compost, turning to dirt as well (hey, an environmentally-friendly dirt bike track). </div>
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BUILDING OBSTACLES</div>
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Most of us want hills to climb or jump on our motocross track. Depending on the equipment you have access to, the building technique is going to change a little, but I think you'll get the picture after I describe a few of the things I've tried or seen done.</div>
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Let's assume you have something with a bucket. Grab your first load of dirt and head to where you want a jump. DON'T dump the dirt in the middle of the track – that's a good way to end up with terribly narrow jumps. Dump the dirt so that the middle of the pile ends up along the left or right edge of your track. On the second load of dirt, dump it so the middle pile ends up on opposite edge. If you're standing further back on the track, your two piles will have a vee between them, lining up with the centre of the track. No get a third bucket and dump it between the two piles.</div>
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Now, take a break and run your bike over the pile. You know you're dying to, so get it out of your system.</div>
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Okay, back to work. Add piles of dirt in front of, or behind the existing pile – always placing the left and right piles first, then the middle pile. Keep going until the base of the jump is as long as you want it to be. If you're building a table top, you might be done at this point. If you're going for a regular jump, you'll need to pack the first layer and then repeat the process, starting further back from the ends to get your overall rounded shape.</div>
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When it comes to packing you can either run the machinery you're using over the jump, or just have at it with your dirt bikes. If you're riding the jump into shape, you'll have to rake it regularly to fill in the ruts. (Note: you should rake out the ruts at the end of every riding day... that way, subsequent rain falls and sunny days will help pack the surface) The advantage to packing your jumps with your dirt bike is that you won't compress the entire jump as much (using less dirt). It's a good idea to seed some grass on the jump or let it weed up a little in this case. The roots will help hold everything together. You can cut it all down occasionally.</div>
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I'm purposely not going to get into specific heights for jumps, or how far apart they should be spaced – <span style="-moz-background-clip: border; -moz-background-inline-policy: continuous; -moz-background-origin: padding; background: transparent none repeat scroll 0% 0%;">too much depends on the size of dirt bike you'll be using and how long you've been riding. If you've been riding for awhile, you'll figure it out as you go along... if not, try and find a riding friends to help you out, or pay attention to jumps you ride elsewhere. If you have to measure them or pace them out and transfer dimensions to your track.</span></div>
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<span style="-moz-background-clip: border; -moz-background-inline-policy: continuous; -moz-background-origin: padding; background: transparent none repeat scroll 0% 0%;">I'm also not going to cover shaping the face of the jumps – it's just too hard for me to explain. If I get some time, I'll try and get some diagrams up. Again, pay attention to jumps you're already riding. Most of the time you'll see the face is not a flat, straight ramp, but has a bit of a curve (or belly) to help get you some air when you crest the lip.</span></div>
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<span style="-moz-background-clip: border; -moz-background-inline-policy: continuous; -moz-background-origin: padding; background: transparent none repeat scroll 0% 0%;">One more tip for jumps. If you have some young or beginner motocross riders as well as more experienced dirt bike fans, you can taper off one side your jump at about a 30-degree angle. This gives you a low short jump on the low end, a full hei</span>ght jump on the other, and something for everyone in between.</div>
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My best advice for curves and turns is to start riding them, and then add dirt as you go along. They tend to flow better that way. If you want to build up a berm quickly, you can use old tires along the back side (most auto shops will give them to you for free since they have to pay to have them hauled away). If you have any hills or embankments, you can carve some awesome turns into those.</div>
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If you have a small space and a tight track, placing a turn in front of and close to a jump forces riders to keep their speed down, so smaller jumps work out great.</div>
<div class="blogger-post-footer">Funny dirt bike quotes and motocross sayings and motorcycle jokes along with riding tips and maintenance advice</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8648565990930350793.post-60273414670045131222009-12-31T14:04:00.003-06:002019-02-27T14:45:28.704-06:00Build A Track - PlanningWhat's better than riding a dirt bike or competing in motocross? Riding your dirt bike on your very own motocross track! Building your own motocross track may sound intimidating, but it IS do-able! This series of articles will give you enough information to get you started.<br />
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We'll break down the building of your own motocross track into phases. We'll start with location and planning.</div>
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When picking land for own dirt bike riding, you need to keep two important things in mind. The area available to you, and who else is in the neighborhood. An acre of land is big enough to build a track, but it's probably not a good idea if you have homes nearby. On the other hand, if you have 50 acres of forest and clear an acre in the middle of it, you could be surrounded by neighbors who may never know you're running dirt bikes (especially if you're riding 4-strokes). If you're trying to build a competition track, you'll need about 400 feet by 250 feet of area. If you only need enough space for two or three bikes at a time, you can do it in a smaller area.</div>
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Make sure you check out by-laws and local regulations as well. I know of one rural area where it's okay to build a personal motocross track, but only for use by the owner of the property and his or her family. In other words, you can't have a dozen of your friends out riding dirt bikes on the weekend. </div>
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If the track you're going to build is not where you live day to day, will you be able to keep people off of it? You want to avoid strangers coming in and wrecking the track or vandalizing anything in the area, and you want to avoid some idiot suing you for hurting himself while riding on your property. At the very least, you'll need to post “Private Property” and “No Trespassing” signs. If you're out in the country, “No Hunting” signs are also a good idea. You don't need an enthusiastic hunter hurling bullets in your direction. On the other hand, if the closest neighbor has a couple of kids with dirt bikes, allowing them to ride your track may win you a lot of points. You'll probably want them to sign a waiver though.</div>
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So, assuming you have a suitable piece of land, it's time to map it out. If it's an open field, you can do it with a 100 meter/yard tape measure. If there's bush or forest, beg, borrow, or buy a newer GPS unit, and get some software. There is some free GPS mapping software available, and the program I use can be found <a href="http://dirtbikeblogger.blogspot.com/2009/06/blog-post.html"><b>HERE</b></a>. </div>
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Make a rough sketch or map of the area you're going to build on. Are there rocky areas? Low spots? Hills? Water or swamp? Depending on the type of riding you want to do, you can avoid some areas or incorporate them into your track. </div>
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This is also a good time to get an idea of what kind of building material you have access to. Jumps take more dirt than you think. There are tricks to get around this, and I'll cover them in the building phase. The soil should be clay-based – something you can pack -- so it doesn't erode quickly. If the dirt is soft and loamy, you'll end up doing a lot of track repairing and grooming. </div>
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Once you have your map. Sit around for a few days (or weeks) and sketch out possible track layouts. Again, this is YOUR track, so design it the way YOU want it. If you like whoops, there's nothing stopping you from putting in four sections of them. Like table tops more than doubles? Load your track with them.</div>
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Also keep in mind the kind of dirt bikes and dirt bike riders that will be on the track. You can pack a whole lot of fun into a small area with smaller jumps if you're into pit bikes. Younger or beginner riders will want smaller jumps to build up their confidence. If you want to go screaming around on a 450, you'll need to scale everything up.</div>
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Keep the terrain you mapped out in mind. If there's a hill or even a slight rise, putting a jump there can save you a lot of dirt. The bottom edge of a hill is an easy place to carve out a berm. A pile of rocks is better on the inside of a turn than the outside.</div>
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The focus of these articles is creating a motocross-style track, but keep another option in mind – if you have the space, you can create an excellent trail to ride. One guy I know has 60 acres of bush with a small track in the centre, as well as close to three miles of trail surrounding it. By zig zagging your trail, you can pack a lot of riding into a small area, and you can still add jumps along the trail.</div>
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Once you have what you think is a good layout, head back to your property with some stakes or flags. With map in hand, walk out your track and mark track sections with your stakes. You may find that something that looked great on paper, jut doesn't work on your piece of property, or that if you move a jump over a little, you can use a natural hill to build it. If at all possible, once you've staked things out, ride the track to see how it feels. Are the straights long enough? Are the jumps spaced okay?</div>
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Make adjustments and keep tweaking until you're comfortable with the layout.</div>
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Then it's time to start building. You'll find that article by clicking <a href="http://dirtbikeblogger.blogspot.com/2010/01/build-track-construction.html">HERE</a>.</div>
<div class="blogger-post-footer">Funny dirt bike quotes and motocross sayings and motorcycle jokes along with riding tips and maintenance advice</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8648565990930350793.post-23933298222451103032009-12-15T08:43:00.011-06:002019-02-27T14:46:13.928-06:00Christmas Poem<span style="font-size: 100%; font-weight: bold;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;">by allanGEE</span></span><script async src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script>
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</script><br /><br />'Twas right around Christmas, and at the North Pole</span><br /><span style="color: black;">Santa and reindeer were ready to roll.</span><br /><span style="color: black;">But the presents and sleigh were still stored away</span><br />'Cause something much different would happen that day.<br />There side by side they lined up in their place<br />For the North Pole's first-ever motocross race.<br />The track was prepared and lookin' quite nice,<br />A challenging mix of dirt, snow, and ice.<br />With a roar they all started, for position they fought<br />When Santa revved hard to make the ho-ho-ho-holeshot.<br />At the very first jump, Blitzen got into trouble<br />(He did a great single, but the jump was a double).<br />Then they took the next turn -- well, all except Donder...<br />He went straight ahead and crashed way out yonder.<br />Santa scrubbed the next jump and pulled out ahead,<br />Vixen tried too, but endo'd instead.<br />Then down-shifting once, the rest hit the next curve;<br />Dasher leaned hard, but started to swerve.<br />Then he over-corrected, hit the throttle AND brakes...<br />Dasher's now "Crasher" and every part aches.<br />Dancer and Prancer tried to take second and third<br />But Santa shot roost and their vision was blurred.<br />They first hit each other, and then hit the dirt,<br />Out of the race, both of them hurt.<br />Then Comet and Cupid followed old Nick<br />Into the whoops, but a little too quick.<br />Comet bounced high, Cupid hit low,<br />Both ended up neck-deep in the snow.<br /><br />Santa was the winner, of that there's no doubt<br />And as he blew past the finish we all heard him shout,<br />"If you want a Christmas present, just sit on my knee.<br />If you want to come in second, just follow me!"<br /><br /><span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-family: "arial";"><br /><span style="color: red;">Just a reminder that this is copyrighted. You're welcome to link to it, but I'd appreciate it if you didn't steal it. Thanks, and take care!</span></span></span></span><br />
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<div class="blogger-post-footer">Funny dirt bike quotes and motocross sayings and motorcycle jokes along with riding tips and maintenance advice</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8648565990930350793.post-11537684448670171072009-09-11T14:33:00.001-05:002019-02-27T14:46:45.348-06:00Sprocket Replacement<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
I once visited a guy who had recently bought a used dirt bike from someone who bragged about being a motocross champion. My friend proudly showed me his new-to-him dirt bike and pointed out the “racing” sprocket on the rear tire. The seller of the dirt bike told him the hook-shaped sprocket teeth grabbed the chain better for racing. </div>
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The seller may or may not have been a racer, but he was definitely dishonest. The sprocket was completely worn out (creating the curved teeth), and the chain along with it.</div>
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Fortunately, replacing a dirt bike's sprockets (it pays to replace the front and back right away) is relatively straight-forward and inexpensive. </div>
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Most dirt bike repairs are easier to do if the bike is up off the ground, and this one is no exception. Get it up on a stand (or blocks of wood, or a pile of dead cats, or what have you) so that rear wheel is off the ground.</div>
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Undo the rear axle nut. This can take a lot of effort and strain – it's best if someone holds your dirt bike so that it doesn't tip and leak gas... and no one should stand behind you in case you strain too hard and leak gas.</div><script async src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script>
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Once the rear axle nut is off, loosen off the rear wheel tensioners, or adjusters – those nuts you turn to tighten or loosen your chain. Loosening these now will give you a little more play and wiggling room for the next step.</div>
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Remove the rear axle. Watch for other parts that may want to fall off and hit the floor, especially those associated with the brakes.</div>
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Remove the rear wheel. Watch for even more parts that may try and leap to their death. Slip the chain off the wheel.</div>
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At this point, I like to set the dirt bike's rear wheel on a pail or crate with the sprocket facing up and the brake disc facing down – protected from the accidental clumsy-ninja-with-nunchuks impression I inevitably end up doing while wielding wrenches.</div>
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Undo the bolts holding the sprocket to the wheel and remove it. The old sprocket is generally useless so you can scrap it – or give it to one of the neighborhood kids who will then think you are really cool. This can buy you some goodwill with the neighbors the next time you tear down the street to test your latest repairs.</div>
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Clean away any dirt or grit that might have built up on the rear wheel and bolt the new sprocket in place. This may seem obvious but, just in case, if your dirt bike has a dish-shaped sprocket, make sure you put it on the same way the original one was facing. Thread locking compound (such as Loctite) is a good idea for the sprocket bolts BUT place a little under the countersunk head to help prevent them from spinning. If the nuts are self-locking or have lock washers, thread lock won't be needed on the threads.</div>
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TIP: For the couple of extra bucks it'll cost, it's worth using new bolts for the rear sprocket.</div>
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Now move on to the front sprocket.</div>
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Remove the front chain guard and whatever is holding your front sprocket onto your dirt bike (the sprocket keeper). This will usually be a large nut and lock washer, an E-clip, or a clip that's bolted to the sprocket</div>
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If you bought your bike used and it has an E-clip, chances are someone has replaced the original nut and washer. You can check with your local dirt bike parts shop – give 'em the model and year and they can tell you what the factory part is/was – or just take a close look at the front sprocket assembly. The lock washer will fit over teeth that are machined into the counter shaft to keep it from turning. Then, once the nut is in place, a part of the washer gets bent up against one of the flats on the nut to keep the nut from turning. If you have an E-clip, just pull it off... if you have bolts, lefty loosey.</div><script async src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script>
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Installing the sprocket is just the reverse of what you did above.</div>
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It's usually a good idea to change the chain when you change sprockets. Your call. Slip the chain over the front sprocket, then over the rear sprocket. Slide the rear wheel in place and slide in the axle. Put the axle nut on loosely. Snug up the tensioners or adjusters, and then tighten down the axle nut. </div>
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Remember to check your chain tension at short intervals for the first ride. And, after that, well you're already checking your dirt bike's chain before every ride... right?</div>
<div class="blogger-post-footer">Funny dirt bike quotes and motocross sayings and motorcycle jokes along with riding tips and maintenance advice</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8648565990930350793.post-49339951234064482292009-09-04T11:42:00.003-05:002019-02-27T14:48:22.740-06:00Steep Downhills<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
You've been there. You ride your dirt bike to the top of a hill and then lock your brakes up at the top when you see the steep drop on the downhill side. There's a trail... so other dirt bikes have gone down there. There are no skeletons wearing helmets at the bottom... so apparently they survived.<br />
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Whether you're dealing with a short, steep drop off, or a longer downhill ride, the technique is pretty much the same.<br />
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Most dirt bike riders, when confronted with a steep drop, will tend to drop to the seat because that feels the most secure. The first thing you have to do is get your butt off the seat. And, here's the part I love to say -- stay relaxed. Yes, you might be nervous, but tensing up will result in losing some control of your steering, braking, and balance.<br />
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Make sure you pick and start traveling at the speed you want before you begin to tackle the slope. In general, if you're feeling confident halfway down it's not a big deal to pick up speed. If you panic on the way down it's a lot harder to slow down and keep the dirt bike under you where it belongs. On your way down, you should be using about twice as much rear brake as front brake. Too much front brake and you're going to beat your dirt bike to the bottom.<br />
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Keep your body loose, stay up on the pegs in a crouched position.<br />
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As you would with any obstacle, figure where you're going to go at the end of it.</div>
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<div class="blogger-post-footer">Funny dirt bike quotes and motocross sayings and motorcycle jokes along with riding tips and maintenance advice</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8648565990930350793.post-14025628377220125622009-08-31T15:17:00.005-05:002019-02-27T14:48:54.003-06:00Steering Head BearingIf you ended up on this article via a search engine, you probably typed in a phrase like loose triple clamps or too much play in your forks, or adjusting the handlebar tension. The terminology you're probably looking for is a loose steering head bearing on your dirt bike– which is what this article covers.<br />
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First of all... does your dirt bike NEED to have the steering head bearing adjusted? Those of you who are seasoned dirt bike trail riders or motocross competitors will already know how to check. Newer or infrequent riders may not even know what I'm talking about. So here's how to check your dirt bike's triple clamp or steering head bearing.<br />
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Raise your dirt bike so that the front wheel is completely off the ground, but in an upright position. Stand, kneel or, if it's been a long day, sit in front of the dirt bike and grab the bottom of the forks. Pull gently back and forth. If the wheel assembly moves front to back, it's definitely time to tighten things up. If your dirt bike's steering head bearing is this loose it will (and hopefully already hasn't) wear that nice circular hole into an oblong one.<br />
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<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5376236402442756434" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQBdVBkFGmYKLWQLknIuCRe3GsvBFObZJsaq9PTzfQw04U1e1cuxtrhY-HjpZ6321jQumIOuY2U7RLsGbSO3cVhwE1bRnGIumGRXEdHZDQXvacK0qTvzGqqNPVqmIlNOFWZrji6GdA4qk/s400/steering+head+bearing+check.jpg" style="cursor: hand; display: block; height: 313px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /><br />Your steering head bearing may not be as loose as above, but still need some tightening. The second test you'll want to do is, again, with your front wheel off the ground. Turn the handlebars all the way to one side and flick the handle bars. You should only get one bounce, maybe two. Also, the handlebars should be easy to move from side to side, but shouldn't flop over to one side when you let go.<br /><br />Following is the quick and easy way to adjust the tension on your steering head bearing. You may have to remove a couple of things to get to the parts, but many dirt bikes have everything exposed and accessible, so you'll be done in no time. There may be some slight variation between different models of dirt bikes, but the basics are the same.<br /><br />Once again, start with the front wheel off the ground. You absolutely cannot do this with the dirt bike resting on the front wheel.<br /><br />If you have to remove any parts – for example, the handlebar – mark them before removal so you can put everything back exactly where you had it and want it.<br /><br />Loosen the fork clamp bolts – also referred to as pinch bolts – so that the fork tubes can move independently of the steering stem. <br />
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<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5376237221483975186" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg26Gh-G9u4dk21uSmtaXPWLZi26qJQ2zzAYQk6TuG7Fhto8kWqAtw7bQb46Lpt1XZAKUGgeNoAeDVhMf9KuMP8b9vYG-9TgR1NMWbcWutknq7id5dCTZHvGWprd4ClV0m5FAbzse4gWLk/s400/Steering+Head+Bearing+Clamp+Pinch+Bolts.jpg" style="cursor: hand; display: block; height: 330px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /><br />
Now loosen the steering head nut, which is sometimes called the crown nut. The steering head nut is labeled as #1 in the diagram. You probably don't have to remove it completely.<br />
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You're now ready to tighten the adjusting nut(s) – there's usually one, but sometimes a second one as a lock nut. The adjusting nut is labeled as #2 in the diagram. You'll notice the adjusting nut is basically a ring with notches in it – also called a ring nut. A special wrench is available for the adjusting nut. However, I personally never have to adjust this very often, so I'm comfortable just setting a screwdriver in one of the notches and gently tapping the handle of the screwdriver with a mallet or hammer. The choice is yours.<br />
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Make slight adjustments, tightening a little at a time, and then check the play in the steering. Most manuals call for you to eliminate all play when you grab the bottom of the forks and rock them back and forth, but not so tight that it binds or sticks when you turn the steering side to side.<br />
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Once you have the bearing adjusted properly, re-tighten the head nut. Double check for play and binding. Then re-tighten the fork clamp bolts. Torque everything to the specs in your dirt bike's manual.<br />
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Perform the steering head bearing checks mentioned above after you've done some more riding on your dirt bike, and then check periodically after that.<div class="blogger-post-footer">Funny dirt bike quotes and motocross sayings and motorcycle jokes along with riding tips and maintenance advice</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8648565990930350793.post-77814921266037929302009-06-18T11:30:00.003-05:002009-06-22T11:50:55.740-05:00<span style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold;font-size:130%;" ><span style="COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">.</span><br /><span style="COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">.</span><br /><span style="COLOR: rgb(255,255,51);font-size:180%;" >GPS & Dirt Bikes</span></span><br /><br />Should you consider getting a GPS (Global Positioning System) unit for your dirt bike and trail riding? First let's take a look at what GPS does.<br /><br />There are over two dozen GPS satellites hovering overhead, emitting signals. A GPS unit (Garmin being one of the most well-known brands) will calculate it's location on the globe by triangulating it's position relative to 3 or more of those satellites. The more satellites being received, the more accurate your GPS position will be.<br /><br />Prior to the year 2000, GPS signals included something called selective availability. In short, the signal was made fairly inaccurate, on purpose. Only the military had access to the better, far more accurate signal. However, selective availability has now been removed, and even the most basic GPS units are accurate to within 3 to 10 meters, and many of the newer models are even more accurate.<br /><br />Most newer GPS units also use WAAS. WAAS, or Wide Area Augmentation System is a system of satellites and ground stations that provide GPS signal corrections for even better position accuracy -- up to five times better. And there's no need to buy additional receiving equipment or pay service fees to utilize WAAS.<br /><br />With a GPS unit, you can locate trails for dirt bike riding, if you have the latitude and longitude coordinates. If you discover a trail, you can note the coordinates of the starting point, or use your GPS unit's tracklog feature. With a tracklog, you can keep it stored on your GPS unit – which will also allow you to backtrack – or download the coordinates to GPS software to create printed maps. A great program for this is <a href="http://www.mapwel.eu/affiliate.php?P=116999&A=http://www.mapwel.eu/index.htm">Mapwel</a>, which I'll discuss in more detail further down the page.<br /><br />A GPS unit will also allow you to participate in geocaching – a great addition to trail riding. Geocaching is basically a high-tech treasure hunt. Caches are hidden and listed on the Internet (try Geocaching.com) with only their coordinates and sometimes additional clues. The caches generally include a logbook and pencil to record visitors, and tokens or prizes that can be traded.<br /><br />Most newer GPS units include maps that you can follow – however there are very few undocumented trails on those supplied maps. One great option is creating your own custom maps – I recommend <a href="http://www.mapwel.eu/affiliate.php?P=116999&A=http://www.mapwel.eu/index.htm">Mapwel</a>. <a href="http://www.mapwel.eu/affiliate.php?P=116999&A=http://www.mapwel.eu/index.htm">Mapwel</a> is free to try and quite reasonably priced if you want the full set of features.<br /><br />One thing I like about <a href="http://www.mapwel.eu/affiliate.php?P=116999&A=http://www.mapwel.eu/index.htm">Mapwel</a> is the ability to customize a map for my Garmin GPS. For example, there are some great trails I love to ride in a wooded area, but they don't show up on the supplied MapSource maps. After riding the trails and recording my routes on the tracklog, I can download the waypoints and routes to <a href="http://www.mapwel.eu/affiliate.php?P=116999&A=http://www.mapwel.eu/index.htm">Mapwel</a>. Using those coordinates as a starting point, I can draw in trails and reference points like hunting cabins, fences, etc. I can even use scanned in maps or downloaded aerial shots as a reference – kind of like tracing. <a href="http://www.mapwel.eu/affiliate.php?P=116999&A=http://www.mapwel.eu/index.htm">Mapwel</a> then converts the map into a GPS compatible format and uploads it to my Garmin. Now, when I ride, I can see where I am on the actual trail, instead of just being a dot in the middle of a detail-less map.<br /><br />The biggest tip I can offer when creating maps is to calibrate it from GPS readings you've taken with YOUR unit, on location, whenever possible. Google Maps and Google Earth can be off by quite a bit.<br /><br />I've included a list of some of the <a href="http://www.mapwel.eu/affiliate.php?P=116999&A=http://www.mapwel.eu/index.htm">Mapwel</a> features from their website below. Or just <a href="http://www.mapwel.eu/affiliate.php?P=116999&A=http://www.mapwel.eu/index.htm">click here</a>.<br /><br /><br /><br /><span style="FONT-STYLE: italic">Import of files, files merging </span><br /><br /><span style="FONT-STYLE: italic">Mapwel supported GPS units require maps in vector format. Therefore, easiest way of how to create map for GPS is to import files in ESRI *.shp, *.gpx or other vector format into Mapwel, merge them together and assign proper type to all map objects. Mapwel also supports import of raster images and their automatic and manual vectorization. </span><br /><br /><span style="FONT-STYLE: italic">Projections and datums </span><br /><br /><span style="FONT-STYLE: italic">imported files in both vector and raster format (especially *.shp files) may use various projections and geographic systems. Mapwel supports hundreds of the commonly used systems, including UTM (Universal Transverse Mercator). Internal format of map data in Mapwel is WGS84, because this format is also internal format of the GPS units. Although user can select various coordinate systems in GPS, coordinates are always calculated from WGS84 format. Therefore, Mapwel converts all input data into WGS84.</span><br /><br /><span style="FONT-STYLE: italic">Autovectorization </span><br /><br /><span style="FONT-STYLE: italic">If you need to get raster image into GPS with just a few mouse clicks, this is the right tool for you. Mapwel provides Automatic "one-click" vectorization of raster images (satellite imagery or scanned maps). Garmin units do not allow to load raster image directly into the GPS and use it as a map. Therefore, this function automatically vectorizes raster image and creates vector file compatible with GPS.</span><br /><br /><span style="FONT-STYLE: italic">Map Georeferencing </span><br /><br /><span style="FONT-STYLE: italic">Mapwel provides two approaches to establish relation between raster image and map coordinate system: 1. direct calibration, 2. separate image editing and map georeferencing. In both cases, result is a map with Lat/Lon grid parallel to the screen edges and coordinates assigned to left, right, top and bottom edge of the map. Click here to find out more >></span><br /><br /><span style="FONT-STYLE: italic">User defined styles </span><br /><br /><span style="FONT-STYLE: italic">GPS units use basic (pre-defined) and user-defined sets of polygon patterns, line styles and symbol icons. Mapwel provides easy-to-use editor of user styles, which are supported by most of the new Garmin GPS. Click here to find out more >></span><br /><br /><span style="FONT-STYLE: italic">Map Drawing </span><br /><br /><span style="FONT-STYLE: italic">Map can be drawn from the scanned paper chart, aerial photos, satellite images and/or with use of tracks and waypoints imported from your GPS. Mapwel allows to draw map with use of straight lines and curves. When drawn with curves, map can be uploaded into the GPS with chosen precision/data-size ratio. User can apply Contrast, Brightness and Gamma filters to the scanned chart or satellite image to adjust the background for convenient drawing of vector objects on the top. To make drawing of complex objects easier, Mapwel provides Opening in the Area tool.</span><br /><br /><span style="FONT-STYLE: italic">Tools</span><br /><br /><span style="FONT-STYLE: italic">Mapwel tools help to manage maps in your GPS, which are normally not accessible, or hard to manipulate because they are all merged into a single file.</span><br /><span style="FONT-STYLE: italic">' Add maps to other maps in GPS' function allows to add your map to those already present in the GPS memory. 'Delete specific maps in GPS' allows to erase individual maps from your map set. 'Merge IMG files' alllows to combines several maps into a single file for use with Nüvi, Zümo, Colorado, Oregon or unit, which memory is directly accessible from Windows.</span><br /><br /><span style="FONT-STYLE: italic">Other Mapwel tools help to create map faster. For example, 'Create Circle around Point' function for aviation maps creates 'circles' of defined radius around all selected points. Very large 'circles' look deformed near poles, because of coordinate system projection. However, real-world distance from center to any point on the "circle" is the same. </span><br /><br /><span style="FONT-STYLE: italic">Freehand Tool </span><br /><br /><span style="FONT-STYLE: italic">Unlike the other Mapwel drawing tools, which are based on the precise manual placement of the nodes, curves and lines, Freehand tool allows to draw many of the Mapwel objects very fast with a free hand. Strokes are automatically converted into the chosen style. After conversion, strokes can be edited as other vector objects (node by node). </span><br /><br /><span style="FONT-STYLE: italic">Trace Tool </span><br /><br /><span style="FONT-STYLE: italic">This is another tool for faster vectorization of the raster image. It allows to vectorize one object (or set of similar objects) at once, but it cannot vectorize whole map with different types of objects at once. Tracing should be repeated for respective types of objects (filled areas, roads, rivers, etc.). Trace tool works on images with any common color depth (including True Color and bi-tone) that are sufficiently clean. </span><br /><br /><span style="FONT-STYLE: italic">Object Inspector </span><br /><br /><span style="FONT-STYLE: italic">Object Inspector box at right side of the main Mawpel window displays information about respective map objects and simplifies the object manipulations. It also allows to select one or several objects in the work space. </span><br /><br /><span style="FONT-STYLE: italic">WYSIWYG </span><br /><br /><span style="FONT-STYLE: italic">Mapwel allows to draw the map in any colors you choose and the 'What you see is what you get' interface (WYSIWYG) shows how the map will look like on the color or monochrome GPS display. Mapwel also simulates the Nighttime and Marine color modes. When drawing the map, use display mode tabs in the left bottom corner of the Mapwel screen to review your map in the real GPS colors.</span><br /><br /><span style="FONT-STYLE: italic">Properties of Objects </span><br /><br /><span style="FONT-STYLE: italic">Each object has adjustable properties like name, comment (text that is displayed in GPS when cursor stays on top of the object), type, max. zoom level, etc. POI (points of interest) may have address and phone number assigned.</span><br /><span style="FONT-STYLE: italic">It is also possible to define properties of the whole map, like name, copyright text, address format, internal map ID, map draw priority and zoom levels of map layers. </span><br /><br /><span style="FONT-STYLE: italic">Automatical Object Splitting </span><br /><br /><span style="FONT-STYLE: italic">GPS rendering engine requires large areas and lines to be split into smaller objects because of the data structures limitations and speed of map rendering. Mapwel splits all objects automatically without loss of the map detail when it uploads map into the GPS. User does not have to bother about the object size or detail limitations. Splitting process runs internally without user even knowing about it. </span><br /><span style="FONT-STYLE: italic">Accuracy </span><br /><br /><span style="FONT-STYLE: italic">Both technical and software limitation of GPS units restrict accuracy of maps (see the Accuracy table). This restriction is related to the map scope. It means that very large map is represented in GPS with lower accuracy than the small or normal size map. Mapwel automatically converts all map data into the best possible accuracy level. </span><br /><br /><span style="FONT-STYLE: italic">Map Uploading and Export </span><br /><br /><span style="FONT-STYLE: italic">Finished map can be saved into Mapwel *.mpw file format, exported into *.img, *.kml or other supported format, or uploaded directly into the GPS. Export of map into other than *.mpw file is supported by Mapwel Advanced version only. Mapwel includes separate MapUpload program for loading *.img files into the GPS. MapUpload also allows to pack several img files into a single executable file to distribute to your friends or customers.</span><div class="blogger-post-footer">Funny dirt bike quotes and motocross sayings and motorcycle jokes along with riding tips and maintenance advice</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8648565990930350793.post-21969698858717087192009-02-10T16:49:00.004-06:002019-02-27T14:52:19.823-06:00Scrubs & Whips(Scrubbing Whipping)<br />
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Not that many years ago, the scrub (or scrubbing) didn't exist in the dirt bike motocross world. Today, the Bubba Scrub, perfected by James Stewart, is a part of everyone's racing and riding vocabulary.<br />
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First, let's define the difference between a whip and a scrub. For the most part, a whip is about looking cool during flight, or to set up for corners. A scrub is used to “scrub” off height (not speed as is often said) when going over a jump, generally in a motocross setting. Simple high school physics proves that when you're in the air you're losing speed – unless you're in the air as a result of riding your dirt bike off the top of a very tall building, or out the back of an airplane. The quicker you get your tire back on the ground, the faster you can go.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXXv7tBLuxn8WxOOMxFA6syciTQvMvKImitC1ZVGokWbvGil3BUTv-ZWeQywt7jDTAiAkS07jKFQOGc7DNXlK5ekSJUrEPRCgSHHq7ygDI8YN4NAbBaG9ai8itEwZHYGPPvKl1r4D-boM/s1600-h/scrub.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5301305047306946562" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXXv7tBLuxn8WxOOMxFA6syciTQvMvKImitC1ZVGokWbvGil3BUTv-ZWeQywt7jDTAiAkS07jKFQOGc7DNXlK5ekSJUrEPRCgSHHq7ygDI8YN4NAbBaG9ai8itEwZHYGPPvKl1r4D-boM/s400/scrub.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 270px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">WHIP FOR SHOW, SCRUB TO GO!</span></div>
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Secondly, let me point out that I am nowhere near an expert on scrubbing a dirt bike over a jump. I'm more of a scrubbing a dirt bike after I tumble it in the dirt at the “oh no” end of a jump – takes lots of soap and water to get the dirt out. But following is an overview from a lot of online, book, and article research, and from talking with motocross riders. If I've missed a tip, by all means let me know.<br />
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When you're judging how good a scrub is, the two things you want to measure is how low the dirt bike is, and how flat you move it through the air. Here's how you can try to do both...<br />
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You're going to want traction. You're going to want a LACK of traction. In other words, you want enough slippage so your dirt bike will slide a little bit. This will mostly depend on the type of tire you're riding on, how worn it is or isn't, and your tire pressure. Chances are you already have a comfortable combination of sliding and traction – if not tweak your air pressure.<br />
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<div style="line-height: 150%; text-align: center;">
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More <a href="http://www.zazzle.com/motorcycle+racing+posters?rf=238242121811104960">Motorcycle Racing Posters</a></div>
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As you head for the jump you want to scrub, hit it at an angle opposite to the way you're going to lean. Approach the lip heading slightly to the right if you're going to be leaning left. Just before you leave the face of the jump, turn the wheel back to the left. If you did it right, your dirt bike should whip back to the direction you want to head in the air. Everyone hates feeling the front tire wash out (slide) but it actually needs to a little at this point. Squeeze the bike hard with your knees and keep weight on the opposite side you're scrubbing on. Snap your front wheel the opposite way as you takeoff so that your dirt bike starts to straighten up. Now that you're in the air, focus on the landing. This point in the jump will most likely lead to increased prayer intensity as well.<br />
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Once that back wheel is planted firmly in the dirt – and assuming you're still on the dirt bike – take advantage of the situation, crack the throttle, and pull ahead of the rest of the motocross pack.<br />
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Simple, isn't it? ;)<br />
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The bottom line is it's going to take LOTS of practice and commitment. If you're already comfortable with whips, you can start working on scrubs. If not, put in some whip practice time. Trying to scrub without knowing how to whip, is like me trying to come up with a similar funny situation to write about without having a sense of humor.<br />
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If you want to see an incredible scrub, Control-T or Control-N yourself to YouTube and type in “ Blake Gillard scrub”. And if you found any of this helpful, feel free to mention this Blog in the comments.
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<div class="blogger-post-footer">Funny dirt bike quotes and motocross sayings and motorcycle jokes along with riding tips and maintenance advice</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8648565990930350793.post-38350140080327723812008-11-05T13:25:00.020-06:002019-02-27T14:56:50.368-06:00Dirt Bike and Motorcycle Quotes, Jokes, Funny Sayings, and PicturesWell, for those of you looking for motocross quotes, I finally got around to revising the Dirt Bike Humor page. Down below you'll find funny quotes, some jokes, sayings, pictures and more about dirt bikes and motocross. I've reorganized the funny stuff I already had, and added quite a few more cool quotes and sayings.<br />
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Some of these have been taken from, or added to, some funny dirt bike shirts, and mugs and such, so I've added links to those where I could.<br />
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<span style="font-size: 130%; font-weight: bold;">DIRT BIKE & MOTOCROSS QUOTES</span><br />
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As much as possible, I'd like to give credit to whoever said these, so if I've attributed something to the wrong person, prove it and I'll fix it. Thanks!<br />
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That's all the motorcycle is, a system of concepts worked out in steel.<br />
Robert M. Pirsig, Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance<br />
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Four wheels move the body. Two wheels move the soul.<br />
Author Unknown<br />
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Keep your dirt bike in good repair: motorcycle boots are not comfortable for walking.<br />
Author Unknown<br />
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Faster, faster, faster, until the thrill of speed overcomes the fear of death.<br />
Hunter Thompson<br />
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A motorcycle functions entirely in accordance with the laws of reason, and a study of the art of motorcycle maintenance is really a miniature study of the art of rationality itself.<br />
Robert M. Pirsig, Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance<br />
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Life is too short for traffic.<br />
Dan Bellack<br />
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People are more violently opposed to fur than leather because it's safer to harass rich women than dirt bike riders.<br />
Author Unknown<br />
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Motorcycle racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty.<br />
Peter Egan<br />
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A narrow track of dirt through the forest isn't a trail -- it's an attitude.<br />
Author Unknown<br />
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<div style="float: left; height: 225px; margin: 0px; overflow: hidden; width: 185px;">
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<span style="font-size: 130%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">DIRT BIKE & MOTOCROSS SAYINGS</span></span><a href="http://www.zazzle.com/dirt_bike_quote_poster_001-228854608534910935?print_width=34.965&print_height=52.4475&rf=238242121811104960" style="text-align: center;"><img alt="Dirt Bike Quote Poster 001 print" src="https://rlv.zcache.com/dirt_bike_quote_poster_001-p2288546085349109358phc_500.jpg" style="border: 0;" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.zazzle.com/dirt_bike_quote_poster_001-228854608534910935?print_width=34.965&print_height=52.4475&rf=238242121811104960">Over 50 Dirt Bike & Motocross Quotes and Sayings On One Poster!</a> by <a href="http://www.zazzle.com/allangee*">allanGEE</a><br />
View more <a href="http://www.zazzle.com/dirt+posters?rf=238242121811104960">Dirt Posters</a></div>
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Most of these have been passed back and forth at the track or along the trail for years. A couple are inspirational, most are just plain funny. If you can prove the original source, let me know and I'll give credit where it's due.<br />
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The race goes to the swift. But sometimes none of them show up, and the rest of us have a shot at it.<br />
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Regular maintenance is the key to reliability; irregular maintenance is the key to great exercise.<br />
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The 3-percent rule: If you want to go faster, ride with people who are 3-percent faster than you.<br />
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The other 3-percent rule: If you want to have fun, ride with people who are 3-percent slower than you.<br />
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You've got to finish to win. Of course, you've got to be fast to win too, otherwise everybody would be doing it.<br />
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There is no physical training regimen so strict that it can't be undermined by a rigorous program of deferred motorcycle maintenance.<br />
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There are old racers and there are bold racers, but there are no old, bold racers who don't walk funny.<br />
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Patience is a virtue of many racers. Unfortunately, it's also a virtue of a lot of losers.<br />
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The wise racer only ticks off the people he can beat.<br />
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The secret of successful race tuning is knowing when to start riding and stop tuning.<br />
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You can't 2-½ a triple. At least not a second time.<br />
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A man never stands so tall as when he stoops to let the air out of a competitor's tire.<br />
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Never underestimate the power of good old-fashioned intimidation.<br />
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Motocross is like football -- but without a bunch of guys showering together when it's done.<br />
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90% of my paycheck goes towards dirt bikes (the rest is just wasted).<br />
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The more complete your on-board tool-kit, the more likely it is that all your trail riding buddies will expect you to fix everything that breaks on their bikes.<br />
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A good rider can overcome marginal equipment. However, even the best equipment can't overcome a marginal rider.<br />
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Ruts are like side-panel screws: just when you think you're in the right groove, you get cross-threaded.<br />
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Blood in your stool is nature's way of suggesting that you rethink your spring rates.<br />
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The good news is that heaven has a motocross track. The bad news is you're racing next Tuesday.<br />
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I know there's money in motocross. I put it there!<br />
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Uninsurable. Competes in Motocross.<br />
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There are places on Earth that quads simply won't fit. Unfortunately, quad riders aren't aware of this.<br />
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Gravity intensifies with the installation of new levers.<br />
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You only have one chance to make a first-turn impression.<br />
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Scientists call it C9 H13 NO3. You call it adrenalin. I call it my dirt bike.<br />
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If you want to come in second... follow me!<br />
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I'm Motoxicated!<br />
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I never lose. I only run out of laps, gas, or time.<br />
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Careful maintenance and preparation is critical to making your dirt bike is reliable enough to tow your buddy's bike back to the truck.<br />
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Winning riders never have "left over" parts.<br />
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Riding faster than everyone else only guarantees you'll ride alone... and I'm okay with that.<br />
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Winning isn't easy... I just make it look that way.<br />
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Dirt bikes are not for wimps. They are, however, quite suitable for the clinically insane.<br />
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Scars – the original tattoo – invented by nature, perfected by dirt bikes.<br />
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A bike in the dirt is worth two on the pavement<br />
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Whatever it is, it's better in the dirt<br />
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Only the guy who finished second remembers who came in second.<br />
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Never spit at a competitor when you're wearing a full-face helmet.<br />
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If you think riding gets the adrenalin pumping, try getting a wasp in your helmet.<br />
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Companion wanted. Male motocrosser seeks caring and generous lady with her own dirt bike. Please send photo of dirt bike.<br />
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In case of dirt bike injury, please reassemble as indicated.<br />
<a href="http://www.zazzle.com/dirt_bike_shirt_dirt_bike_reassemble-235490030103215386" target="_blank"> Only makes sense when you see the shirt...</a><br />
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The dirtier it gets, the better it looks.<br />
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No one ever wins an argument with a tree.<br />
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You can't beat gravity in a fair fight, but sometimes you can sneak up behind it and punch it in the head.<br />
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Gray-haired riders don't get that way with just luck ( ____ years old and still riding)<br />
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I plan to leave this world the same way I came in – screaming and covered in blood.<br />
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If people focused on the important things in life, there'd be a shortage of dirt bikes.<br />
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Gravity is for the weak.<br />
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Real motorcycles don't have gauges.<br />
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Resist the path of least resistance.<br />
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If you come between me and the finish line, there will be blood. And dirt bikes don't bleed.<br />
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Silly boys, dirt bikes are for girls.<br />
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The shortest distance between two points is for people who can't ride.<br />
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Wrecks perfectly good dirt bikes.<br />
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My dirt bike is a gift from my children, purchased with money they will not inherit.<br />
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You don't stop riding when you get old. You get old when you stop riding.<br />
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All I remember is dirt sky dirt sky dirt sky ambulance.<br />
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You will never see dirt bikes in the psychiatrist's parking lot.<br />
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Failure IS an option – a bone-breaking, flesh-tearing, excruciatingly painful option.<br />
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Know your limits... exceed them often.<br />
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I live with fear every day. But on weekends I leave her at home and go ride my dirt bike.<br />
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I used to crash a lot. I still do... but I used to too.<br />
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The older I get, the faster I was.<br />
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Full Throttle – solves the problem or ends the suspense.<br />
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Full Throttle – the ultimate solution.<br />
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When life throws you a curve... lean into it, pick your line, and keep your weight on the outside peg.<br />
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I'd rather be a rider for a minute, than a spectator for a lifetime.<br />
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Grip. Twist. Ride.<br />
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Dirt me.<br />
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Whaddya mean ride it “like” I stole it?<br />
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Apparently this is NOT my lucky shirt.<br />
<a href="http://www.zazzle.com/lucky_dirt_bike_motocross_t_shirt-235860666951340240" target="_blank"> Only makes sense when you see the shirt.</a><br />
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I want a dirt bike like mommy's.<br />
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If it has two wheels and an engine, I don't care who built it, just let me ride it.<br />
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Never mistake horsepower for staying power.<br />
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Happiness is finding you have another gear.<br />
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Happiness is finding you still have more throttle.<br />
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If you love your dirt bike and let it go... and it comes back... you're in the middle of a crash.<br />
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Riding is living. Everything else is just waiting.<br />
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Spas would charge a fortune for all the mud I've had on my face.<br />
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If she changes her oil more than she changes her mind – marry her!<br />
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The most dangerous part of a dirt bike is the nut that connects the handlebars to the seat.<br />
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Dirt bike rider color verification system. Red Neck. Blue jeans.<br />
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Is your mom here today? Or are you just riding her dirt bike?<br />
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Dirt bikes don't leak oil, they mark their territory.<br />
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The best alarm clock is a 2-stroke starting at dawn.<br />
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Helmet not wore when go ride, and no damaging so far brain yet!<br />
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I ride a bullet... a two-wheeled, multiple-explosion powered machine with enough moving parts to remove entire fingers and surfaces hot enough to cook flesh. It propels me at neck-breaking, bone-snapping, flesh-shredding, speeds over and through obstacles I can see only as blurs. It's a sport that kills the careless, maims the best, and spits at the concept of mercy. Now what were you saying about your new golf shoes?<br />
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Death rides. Ride faster.<br />
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What do you call a dirt bike rider who doesn't wear a helmet? An organ donor.<br />
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Dirt is for riding. Pavement is just to get you there.<br />
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If you don't ride in the dirt, you don't ride.<br />
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Catching a yellow-jacket in your jersey halfway through a double can double your vocabulary.<br />
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Only a dirt biker knows why a dog sticks his head out of a car window.<br />
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Eat dirt and bleed gasoline.<br />
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Well-trained reflexes are quicker than luck.<br />
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Don't argue with a tree.<br />
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Life is not a journey with the goal of arriving quietly and safely in one pristine piece... but a chance to twist the throttle until it sticks full open... to leap over, slide under, or hammer through obstacles... to look fear in the eye and backhand it in the head... to skid, slip, or stumble across the finish line, out of gas, leaking oil and blood... covered in dirt, and free from regrets.<br />
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I aren't stupid... I are a dirt biker!<br />
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Two wheels, one engine, no limits.<br />
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My dirt bike kid can whip your honor student.<br />
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Sometimes the best communication happens when you're on separate bikes.<br />
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Dirt bike maintenance is as much art as it is science.<br />
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Do not ignore fear – outride it.<br />
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Never ride faster than your guardian angel can fly.<br />
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I ride way too hard to worry about cholesterol.<br />
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If you ride like there's no tomorrow, there won't be.<br />
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Everyone crashes. Some get back on. Some don't. Some can't.<br />
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<span style="font-size: 130%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">DIRT BIKE & MOTOCROSS JOKES</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">If Dirt Bikes Were Built By Microsoft (or ridden by Bill Gates)</span><br />
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1. For no reason whatsoever your bike would crash twice a day.<br />
2. Every time you wanted to ride a different track or a new trail, you’d have to buy a new bike.<br />
3. Occasionally your bike would die for no reason, and you would accept this, restart and ride on.<br />
4. Occasionally, something as simple as a left turn, would cause your bike to shut down and refuse to start, in which case you have to reinstall the entire engine.<br />
5. Macintosh would make a dirt bike that was powered by the sun, reliable, five times as fast, and twice as easy to ride, but it would only run on five percent of the tracks and trails.<br />
6. You wouldn’t be able to race more than one bike on the same track unless you bought "BikeXP", "BikeNT", or “Bike 7”.<br />
7. The bike would say "Are you sure?" before applying the brakes.<br />
8. For no reason whatsoever, your bike would sometimes refuse to run until you grabbed the plug wire, stuck your finger in the exhaust, and used the kick start, all at the same time.<br />
9. You would be required to wear riding gear manufactured by the same company who built your dirt bike. Deleting this option would cause the bike's performance to drop by 50% or more.<br />
10. Every time a manufacturer introduced a new model, buyers would have to learn to ride all over again because none of the controls would operate in the same manner as the old bike.<br />
11. You'd press the "Start" button to shut off the engine.<br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">The Mechanic and the Heart Surgeon</span><br />
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A dirt bike mechanic was taking a cylinder off a bike, when he was introduced to a world-famous heart surgeon. The mechanic said, "Hey Doc can I ask you a question?"<br />
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The famous surgeon said “Sure!” The mechanic, wiping his hands on a rag, asked, "So Doc… I open this engine up, take valves out, fix 'em, put in new parts, and when I’m done it’ll work just like a new one. So how come you get so much more money than me, when you and I are doing basically the same work?"<br />
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The surgeon looked the mechanic in the eye, smiled, and said, "Try doing it with the engine running!<br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">Good News, Bad News</span><br />
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There's the sad story of the poor dirt bike rider who was in a terrible racing accident. When he came out from under the anesthetic, the doctor was leaning over him anxiously. "Son," he said, "I've got some good news and some bad news. "The bad news is that you were in a very serious accident, and I'm afraid we had to amputate both your feet just above the ankle." "Oh no," gasped the patient. "What's the good news?" The doctor smiled and said "The fellow in the next bed over will give you a good price for your boots."<br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">Brains </span><br />
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A man walks into a seedy back alley butcher shop to buy some human brain and asks "How much?" He’s told $10 a kilo for mini-bike riders… $50 a kilo fro trail riders… and $500 a kilo for motocross racers.” "Why so much for the motocrossers?" he asks. And the butcher replies "Do you know how many of them we need to get a kilo?"<br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">Swap</span><br />
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Did you hear about the guy who got a motorcycle for his wife? Pretty good swap don't you think?<br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">Fairy Tale</span><br />
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A guy at the motocross track tells you that after winning his latest race on his Suzuki dirt bike, Santa Claus came up to congratulate him, and the Easter Bunny presented him with $1000 in prize money. How do you know he's lying?<br />
Answer: No one wins a race on a Suzuki dirt bike (or fill in your least favorite dirt bike).<br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">First Aid?</span><br />
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A guy was tearing down the trail on his dirt bike but the zipper broke on his jacket, so it was letting an annoying draft in. Sitting on his dirt bike, wondering what to do, he finally decided to put the jacket on backwards, so the broken zipper was at the back. He continued to ride his dirt bike at incredible speeds, but lost control. A nearby farmer heard the crash in the bush, assessed the situation, then called 911 on his cell phone! “I found a dirt bike rider on the trail, next to the bike he crashed!” he told the operator. The emergency operator asked the farmer “Is he showing any signs of life?" "Well," the farmer explained, "he WAS... until I turned his head around the right way!"<br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">Miscellaneous</span><br />
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Q. Why did the chicken cross the motocross track?<br />
A. To get to the roost!<br />
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Knock Knock<br />
Who's there?<br />
Whoopdee<br />
Whoopdee Who?<br />
No, Whoopdeedoo!<br />
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Why did the dirt bike cross the road?<br />
Answer: Because they've stopped us from riding everywhere else!!!<br />
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<a href="http://www.zazzle.com/allangee*?tc=DBBlogger"><b><span style="color: red;">You can also find more dirt bike and motocross funny sayings, quotes, and jokes put on shirts, posters, mugs and stickers by CLICKING HERE.</span></b></a></div>
<div class="blogger-post-footer">Funny dirt bike quotes and motocross sayings and motorcycle jokes along with riding tips and maintenance advice</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8648565990930350793.post-17033831137617969192008-10-17T13:13:00.003-05:002019-02-27T14:58:41.044-06:00Carburetor Rebuilding<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 100%;"> </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 100%;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: 100%;">Rebuild the carb? It seems like a very common bit of advice to dirt bike performance problems is rebuilding the carburetor. I think it's in second place, right after "check and/or replace the sparkplug".</span></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 100%;"> <div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: 100%;">The reason a carb rebuild is recommended so often, is because it helps so often. Have fuel pouring out of the carburetor? Rebuild the carb. Engine bogs when you crack the throttle? Rebuild the carb. And so on.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: 100%;">The good news is a carb rebuild is one of those things that seems complicated but is, in fact, simple to do.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: 100%;">First, try and find yourself a clean area to work in or on. There are some small parts, and if you drop them, you'll want to be able to find them easily. Also, you're working with leftover bits of gas and good amounts of degreaser -- so the dining room table is probably not a good idea.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: 100%;">If you can, get hold of a shop manual for your specific dirt bike. That way you'll have a detailed description and diagrams for disassembling and reassembling your carb, plus any settings. If you can't get a manual, go online to someplace you can order parts and print out the exploded view of the carburetor many of these sites have. Also, I find my digital camera valuable for taking pictures of things BEFORE I take them apart. Later, if I can't remember which way something goes, I check one of the before photos.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: 100%;">For the most part, all carbs are pretty much the same and rebuilding the carb on any dirt bike is pretty much the same. If you're into some real vintage dirt bikes I may have a missing or extra step or two here -- but you'll probably figure it out.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: 100%;">So let's get started. First, shut off the fuel from the tank. You wouldn't believe how often I forget that step and pour gasoline all over the floor. When the fuel is shut off, disconnect the fuel line from the carb -- keep a rag handy, because you'll get a little residual fuel coming out of the hose.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: 100%;">Now take the carb off your dirt bike. Usually this involves disconnecting a rubber or plastic sleeve that runs from the air filter to the carb. Some carburetors have a small foam air filter fastened right to them -- common on pit bikes. If you can take it off before removing the carburetor... it'll just make everything easier to handle. Then, if you have the clearance, remove the top of the carb (where the throttle cable goes in) pll the slide out, and leave the slide hanging on the cable. If you're not going to remove and clean the slide and your shop is dusty, slip a plastic bag over it. Then remove the carb from your dirt bike's engine. If you're tight on room above the carburetor, remove it from the block first, THEN remove the top as you move the carb off to the side and down.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: 100%;">The bottom of your dirt bike's carburetor -- the bowl -- is full of fuel. Open the drain screw at the bottom and drain the fuel. By the way, if you're a smoker, you may have already discovered it's a bad habit to indulge in while doing this.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: 100%;">Moving right along... remove the screws that are holding the float bowl on, then remove the float (being careful not to bend anything), and the float needle.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: 100%;">Then remove the idle adjust screw BUT FIRST, turn it all the way in and count the number of turns it takes 'til it stops. Write this down and when you reassemble the carb, turn the screw all the way in and then back it out the same number of turns. That'll give you a good starting point for adjusting the idle later. Do this with any other adjusting mechanisms or screws your dirt bike's carburetor may have.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: 100%;">Remove the choke assembly. It's not necessary to remove the butterfly valve/flap, but on some bikes it pops right out. Choke assemblies are one of those things I always take pictures of before disassembling because I'm lousy at remembering how they go back together.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: 100%;">Finally, remove the jets. Those things that were hidden by the bowl, sticking out from the main body of the carb, with slots in them for your screwdriver. </span></span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: 100%;">At this point you have a couple of choices. Some people like to spray the carb with an aerosol carb cleaner (can be very messy), some like to dunk it in solvent and scrub with a small brush (gets a little messy, and takes some work), or some like to soak it overnight in commercial carb cleaner (easy, not too messy, a little more expensive). For me, the extra cost of the carb cleaner is worth the convenience and the shiny, brand new look of the clean carb.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: 100%;">All the loose parts need to be cleaned as well. Do them the same way you choose for the carburetor body. Don't forget the carb slide that you left hanging on the end of the throttle cable.</span></span></div><script async src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: 100%;">Don't poke or scape with any metal objects -- especially any holes in the carb body or jets.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: 100%;">When everything is clean, blow it all dry with compressed air if you can -- otherwise, dry it as best you can and give it a couple more hours to let things evaporate.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: 100%;">Reassemble everything in the reverse order you took it apart. If rubber gaskets look worn or torn, replace them.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: 100%;">If you have the specs, or if you were having fuel delivery problems, you can check the float level. Personally, I never worry about the float level unless I'm installing new ones, or I've dropped or banged them around.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: 100%;">Your dirt bike carb is now clean and rebuilt. Once you've done one, you'll wonder why you didn't try it sooner.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: 100%;">It's up to you, but I like to take a little time to clean the air filter and housing before putting the carburetor back on the bike -- I hate the thought of dust and grime getting into that shiny carb. </span></span> </div>
</span><div class="blogger-post-footer">Funny dirt bike quotes and motocross sayings and motorcycle jokes along with riding tips and maintenance advice</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8648565990930350793.post-50603416953415189572008-05-29T11:07:00.001-05:002019-02-27T14:57:16.456-06:00<span style="color: black;">. </span><br />
<span style="color: red; font-size: 130%;">Parts Diagrams</span><br />
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One of the most important tools you can own, if you're going to do your own dirt bike maintenance and repairs, is a manual. A good shop manual gives you step-by-step instructions for just about anything you'll ever have to do on your dirt bike – whether you're a weekend trail rider or a serious motocross competitor.<br />
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One of the things I like most about my manuals is the exploded parts diagrams. These are invaluable when disassembling and reassembling parts.<br />
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But sometimes you can't get access to a manual for your dirt bike, or you're doing a repair on a friend's dirt bike. In that case, you can still get hold of a parts diagram. One of my favorite sites to get these is <a href="http://mrcycles.com/" target="_blank">Mr Cycles</a> .<br />
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They have great diagrams for most dirt bikes, including Honda, Suzuki, Yamaha,and Kawasaki.
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</script><div class="blogger-post-footer">Funny dirt bike quotes and motocross sayings and motorcycle jokes along with riding tips and maintenance advice</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8648565990930350793.post-43199412741248842202008-05-09T16:18:00.003-05:002019-02-28T08:43:09.254-06:00<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqV4h8_BiT_lBOruLuMkJBaSgRI8KESoTRYf0mdrAz35hm-r8J7bq2lgn4ACIy1nOu7UGMkf2JQhqN8ZpWKZzHNy7E28d25Gni_nJIBbpdVBjmnndVKUOHYq-aOJnpYJbef_XOVYxv9aY/s1600-h/Spark_Plug.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198494118642475314" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqV4h8_BiT_lBOruLuMkJBaSgRI8KESoTRYf0mdrAz35hm-r8J7bq2lgn4ACIy1nOu7UGMkf2JQhqN8ZpWKZzHNy7E28d25Gni_nJIBbpdVBjmnndVKUOHYq-aOJnpYJbef_XOVYxv9aY/s400/Spark_Plug.jpg" style="cursor: hand; float: right; margin: 0px 0px 10px 10px;" /></a><br />
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<strong><span style="color: red; font-size: 130%;">Fouled Spark Plugs</span></strong></div>
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How do you deal with a fouled spark plug in a dirt bike? The favorite answer is “buy a 4-stroke!” But that's not always an option – either because you love your 2-stroke and wouldn't trade it for anything, or you hate it and can't afford to replace it with anything.</div>
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The best way to deal with dirt bike spark plugs that are fouling is to keep them from getting fouled in the first place. So, before you do anything else, make sure your jetting is correct. The better the jetting, the less likely, or at least less often, you'll foul your spark plug.</div>
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Another preventative measure is to replace the spark plug in your dirt bike with a new one on a regular basis. How often? That depends on your riding schedule and habits. Use your past fouling history as a guide. If you typically end up with a fouled plug every couple of months, change the spark plug every month or six weeks. </div>
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What if you're out on the trail, or miles away from any handy spark plug provider, when your dirt bike stalls and won't start again? The easiest thing is to pull out the plug wrench and put in that spare spark plug you brought with you. You DID bring a wrench and spare plug, right?</div>
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Don't panic. If the only spark plug you have is the fouled one you just pulled out of your dirt bike, you still have options.</div>
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If you have a little kit you take with you riding, make sure it includes some fine emery cloth or a fine-grit sandpaper. If you don't have a kit, shove a piece in your pocket before you leave, or duct tape it to part of your bike. Use the sandpaper or emery cloth to clean the deposits off the business end of the spark plug. If possible, rinse the plug with a little bit of gasoline when you're done.</div>
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I've heard (one of those friend of a friend of a friend stories) that you can also grind a handful of sand in and around the plug to clean it. Sounds good in theory, but I haven't had the courage to give it a try. If you do attempt it, you'll definitely need to rinse it off with gas when done.</div>
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There's a good chance that you'll inadvertently adjust the gap when you clean your spark plug. Now, if you didn't pack a spare plug, you probably didn't bring along a gauge to set the gap with either. In that case, a credit card will usually work as a gauge – well enough to get you home, anyway.</div>
<div class="blogger-post-footer">Funny dirt bike quotes and motocross sayings and motorcycle jokes along with riding tips and maintenance advice</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8648565990930350793.post-35009441958728829962008-05-02T16:09:00.013-05:002019-02-27T15:00:34.153-06:00<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;">.</span> </span><br />
<strong><span style="color: red; font-size: 130%;">Dirt Bike Paper Model</span></strong><br />
<span style="color: black;">.</span><br />
<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5195964086897758002" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbMvCLp8XnakVME5hrtP_aF4Ggb4KvO3knai7QDwm5Db47smy9FwotEmTiJ72mQ2felqk8JYgc-eH7d-y5CmRRQ9QtVG8yibvn9tH_vYlYRgv0pxyh-Qb-RbknkS-Bl7jxh3k8W-k6Nmo/s400/Model.jpg" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /><br />We all spend a lot of time surfing the Internet for motocross and dirt bike information, and sometimes that kind of looking can turn up some interesting things.<br /><script async src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script>
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</script><br />For example, I found this great file with a paper model of a dirt bike. You just print the file, cut out the pieces and assemble. I imagine a decent graphics program would let you alter the colors.<br /><br />Anyway, if you can never get enough of all things dirt bike, or you're looking for something to do until the next motocross event comes to town, give this a try.<br /><br />Once you click on the link, look for the "Click Here To Download" on the left hand side, kind of near the top. It may take a few seconds to come up on some computers, but hey, it's a free service!<br /><br /><br />Download <a href="http://www.mediafire.com/?zixhvtyzwml" target="_blank">Parts01</a> now!<br /><br />Download <a href="http://www.mediafire.com/?ibvyommmgys" target="_blank">Parts02</a> now!<br /><br />Download <a href="http://www.mediafire.com/?t1tltdlvcde" target="_blank">Parts03</a> now!<br /><br />Download <a href="http://www.mediafire.com/?fmkytm41dj4" target="_blank">Parts04</a> now!<br /><br />Download <a href="http://www.mediafire.com/?mzz5vx9nd1s" target="_blank">Assembly01</a> now!<br /><br />Download <a href="http://www.mediafire.com/?4twdjzyjwc1" target="_blank">Assembly02</a> now!<br /><br />Download <a href="http://www.mediafire.com/?tethzvzwpbj" target="_blank">Assembly03</a> now!<br /><br />Download <a href="http://www.mediafire.com/?xxhfvdirnz1" target="_blank">Assembly04</a> now!<br /><span style="color: black;">.<br />.</span><div class="blogger-post-footer">Funny dirt bike quotes and motocross sayings and motorcycle jokes along with riding tips and maintenance advice</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8648565990930350793.post-69098921408746049052008-04-10T14:50:00.002-05:002019-02-27T15:03:14.654-06:00Dirt Bike Riding In SandRiding your dirt bike in sand can be the most difficult riding you'll do. To do it successfully requires a combination of strength and technique. The good new is the more time you spend on your bike, the more strength and technique you'll develop. So ride lots and ride often!<br />
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The most important thing you'll need to learn for riding a dirt bike in sand is to stand up. The surface and density of sand often changes, so even though it looks smooth, there can be a lot of hidden bumps and dips. Also, if you're in an area that sees a lot of dirt bikes, the sand will develop a lot more bumps than a hard-packed mud track.<br />
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Standing up allows you to absorb more of the bumps and go with the flow. If you typically don't ride standing up, start practicing whenever you can – you want to be strong enough and confident enough to be relaxed and in control when you hit that sand. Nervous, stiff and jerky means you'll end up IN the sand instead of riding across it.<br />
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When riding in sand, your dirt bike will want to wander a little bit. Stay loose, let it wander, and carefully correct as needed. If you try and fight the bike you'll just tire out that much quicker.<br />
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Just because sand is a tougher than usual terrain, don't fall into the trap of looking at the ground right in front of your bike. Keep your eyes forward – look at where you want to go... not where you are.<br />
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One of the biggest problems with sand is the way it sucks at your front tire – especially if you ease off the throttle. It's a good idea to shift your weight back a little farther than usual and apply a little more throttle than usual. You want to keep your tires on top of the sand, not plowing through it.<br />
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To take a turn, you'll want even a little more throttle, and lean a little further back. If your front tire digs in during a turn, it'll probably twist completely over, act as a brake, and send you over the handlebars. Since you're going to increase the throttle during the turn, it pays to enter the turn slower than you normally would. If you go into the turn too fast, you'll have to back off the throttle and recover, losing more time and control than if you had started slower and eased up your speed. In other words, you often have to go slower to go faster. If you do need to do some braking in a sand turn, only use the rear brake.<br />
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As you accelerate through and out of the turn, you can be a little more aggressive on the throttle since the sand is stealing a lot of your momentum, Don't let your back wheel spin too much though or you'll just dig in deeper and go slower.<br />
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Those are the basics – the rest is up to you. The more you practice, the better you'll get.
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<span style="color: black;">.</span>When it comes to bearings, like most dirt bike maintenance, the goal is to prevent time-wasting breakdowns on the trails, embarassing breakdowns on the motocross track, and expensive breakdowns requiring the complete replacement of parts that COULD have lasted for years.<br />
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Hey... a dirt bike gets ridden in THE DIRT. Some of that grit and moisture is going to work it's way into your bearings. So here's a crash course in checking and servicing the bearings on your dirt bike.<br />
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<strong><span style="color: red;">Wheel Bearings</span></strong><br />
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The fastest way to check wheel bearings is to have your dirt bike upright, resting on both wheels, while trying to give the wheel in question a side-to-side pushing and pulling. If there's any significant play in the bearing, you'll be able to feel it.<br />
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To service or replace the bearings, you'll have to start by removing the wheel from the dirt bike. Then place the wheel on something that will hold it in place, while leaving room under and around the hub. A sturdy plastic pail works, or one of those plastic milk crates, or a wheel changing stand if you're one of those guys with the kind of shop I envy.<br />
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Before I forget, keep a small container handy to put all the small parts in as you work.<br />
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Then take your universal tool of a thousand uses – otherwise known as a screwdriver – and gently remove the rubber dust seal from the hub (some bikes won't have this seal). If you're careful, and the seals are in good shape, you can re-use them... but price out new ones at your local shop and you'll probably find they're cheap enough that you'll decide to replace them.<br />
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With the first seal removed carefully turn the wheel over (the bearing PROBABLY won't fall out, but I've quickly flipped a wheel over and had a bearing fly out and hide in a dark, hard to reach corner of my garage) and remove the seal from the other side.<br />
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Take a close look and make sure the bearing isn't held in place by a clip. If there is, remove it.<br />
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You should now be able to get your universal tool of a thousand uses (or a pin punch or drift) down the center of the hub to the inner race of the bottom bearing. With a hammer, tap your tool of choice against the edge of the bearing so that it starts to slide out of the hub. If you can't get up against the edge of the bearing race (carefully) turn the wheel over and give the opposite bearing a sharp rap. That often pushes the spacer tube against the bearing you're trying to remove. Now you can slide the loose spacer to expose the edge of the bearing race. Tap all around the bearing as you go to help it slide out straight.<br />
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When the first bearing is out, remove the spacer tube. Getting the remaining bearing out should be a lot easier.<br />
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Wipe the hub down and make sure it's clean – 1, so you can inspect it properly and 2, so you get rid of any grit trapped in the area.<br />
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If your bearings aren't sealed and you're re-using them, clean them out with solvent. You want to flush out any existing grease and the grit that may be in it. You can quickly dry out the bearings with compressed air but, if you do so, hold the bearing in place. If you let it spin you risk premature wear and damage because they're racing around without any lubricant.<br />
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To repack (re-grease) the bearing, place a dollop of bearing grease in your hand and push the bearing into and across it so that the grease is forced into the bearing. Don't stop until you see grease forced out of the top of the bearing.<br />
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When you can, use sealed bearings. They're a lot easier to maintain, and they last longer.<br />
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To install the wheel bearing, grab something just a little bit smaller than the diameter of the bearing – a socket is the most common thing that's used. Place the bearing on the hub, place the socket on top, and tap the bearing in. You'll feel and hear when the bearing is seated. Flip the wheel over (carefully), install the spacer tube, and tap the second bearing in the same way you did the first.<br />
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Install the dust seals by tapping them in place using a socket.<br />
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<strong><span style="color: red;">Headstem Bearings</span></strong><br />
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The headstem bearings on your dirt bike aren't much different than wheel bearings when it comes to removal and service.<br />
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Take the fork legs out of the triple clamps and remove the large flat nut on the top triple clamp. The triple clamp should lift off allowing you to slide the bottom triple clamp and shaft out of the headstem.<br />
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You can now tap the outer races out of the headstem in the same manner as you would tap out wheel bearings.<br />
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The bottom bearing can be tricky to remove from the steering shaft because the shaft usually has to be pressed out of the bottom triple clamp. It IS possible to take the bearing off the shaft using a cold chisel, but you run the risk of damaging the surface of the shaft. If you don't have a press, and can't borrow one, get a price from your local bike shop or a friendly independent mechanic for fitting the bearing. (if anyone has any better suggestions, please post them as a comment or email me)<br />
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Once the new bottom bearing is fitted install the new outer races to the headstem tube and then insert the bottom triple clamp and shaft up into the headstem. Install the top bearing over the shaft and replace the top triple clamp. Lightly install the top nut, put the fork legs back in, and tighten only the bottom clamps. With the bottom clamps tight, snug up the top nut until the steering moves freely. Finally, tighten up the top clamps.<br />
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<strong><span style="color: red;">Swingarm Bearings</span></strong><br />
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To service or replace swingarm bearings on your dirt bike, you'll start by removing the seat and rear subframe, and then swing the rear brake caliper out of the way.<br />
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You know how you loosen all the nuts on a car wheel BEFORE lifting it off the ground? The idea is to give you more leverage. For the same reason, loosen (don't remove) all the bolts in the swingarm linkages while everything is still attached.<br />
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Then remove the nut on the end of the main pivot shaft –where the swingarm is attached to the dirt bike -- and tap the shaft out of the frame.<br />
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Remove the bolt that mounts the bottom of the rear shock to the swingarm and disconnect it.<br />
Slide the swingarm out of the pivot point.<br />
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Now, with the swingarm on your bench, garage floor, or antique dining room table, you can disassemble each bearing one at a time to keep the parts from getting mixed up, or have a separate container for each bearing (label each one).<br />
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If the bearings have caps, carefully pry them out with a screwdriver. Then push out the inner bushing and expose the bearing rollers.<br />
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Clean the bearings carefully, using the same technique as wheel bearings, and inspect them for wear.<br />
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On one of my bikes, the roller bearings are “loose” and can fall out and disappear. When I'm reassembling the bearings, I smear grease in the outer race and “stick” the rollers in place. Everything stays in place until I get the inner bushing in place.<br />
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It's always a good idea to inspect the dust seals and replace them as needed.<div class="blogger-post-footer">Funny dirt bike quotes and motocross sayings and motorcycle jokes along with riding tips and maintenance advice</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8648565990930350793.post-65270845558185231242008-01-11T21:06:00.000-06:002019-02-28T08:43:41.282-06:00<span style="color: black;">.</span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: red; font-size: 130%;">Dirt Bike Suspension – Sag and Spring Rates</span> </span><br />
<span style="color: black;">.</span>The factory can’t build dirt bikes custom fitted for every rider. A light rider tearing up the motocross track will want a bike that performs differently than for a larger rider playing on his dirt bike in the gravel pits. So dirt bikes are designed for the average rider, and for average riding.<br />
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Fortunately, checking your sag and spring rates is fairly easy, so you can check if you have what you need.<br />
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This is a lot easier if you have a buddy to help hold your dirt bike or a very understanding girlfriend or wife (or boyfriend or husband!).<br />
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If you set your clickers to a soft setting, you’ll get more accurate results.<br />
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Free sag or static sag is how much your dirt bike suspension compresses under its own weight. To find measure the sag, start by placing your dirt bike on a stand (or a crate, or wood blocks, etc) with the wheels off the ground. Measure the distance from the rear axle bolt to a convenient spot on your bike, straight up from the axle. You’re going to use this reference point again, so make sure you remember it, or mark it with a piece of tape or something. Record the measurement (A).<br />
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Now take your dirt bike off the stand. While that helpful friend is holding it upright, re-measure the distance from the axle bolt to the reference point. Record the measurement (B).<br />
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Subtract B from A, and that gives you the free sag. Ideally, you’re looking for about 8 to 10 millimeters for smaller bikes, and 25 to 30 millimeters for anything 125cc’s or larger. If you have access to a manual, check it for more accurate ranges.<br />
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Race sag, or laden sag, is how much your dirt bike sags while you’re on it – sometimes called rear ride height as well. To measure race sag, sit on your bike in a normal riding position and have someone re-measure the distance from the axle bolt to your reference point. Record the measurement (C).<br />
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Subtract C from A, to get your race sag. On average, smaller bikes will give you about 65 to 85 millimeters of race sag, and 95 to 105 millimeters for 125cc’s and bigger.<br />
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Too little free sag means the spring is too soft, and too much equals a spring that's too stiff. This may be the opposite of what you’ve been told or heard, but I’ve researched it a lot to try and get it right. <em>(If you have definitive proof that I have it wrong, please email me – I’m more interested in GETTING it right than in BEING right)</em>.<br />
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To adjust the race sag you’ll need to adjust the spring preload. First, using a hammer and punch, release the top collar on the shock spring. Then gently tap the lower collar to compress the spring (more preload), or to release the spring (less preload). Lock the setting in place by re-tightening the top collar.<div class="blogger-post-footer">Funny dirt bike quotes and motocross sayings and motorcycle jokes along with riding tips and maintenance advice</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com